Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Model 90 1st Detector Coil
#1

Man this was disappointing. Started working on a Model 90 (1-47 tube) a while back and all has been going great. I started with the cabinet using lacquer toners and I'm still going to use pumice and rottenstone on it. Then the re-capping and resistors. That was a chore, re-stuffed the bakelite condensers and the two tobacco can ones. After the electrolytics and a third of the other caps were replaced I couldn't stand it and I powered it up. It played very well, although at low volume. Once more I powered it up, just before re-stuffing the two tobacco can caps, and again really nice, although low volume. Now it's finished other than alignment. I power it up, again it plays quite well, albeit low. After a minute or so, some static. Then some more, then a lot, then dead. Expletive!

First of course I inspected the last things I did and found no problems. Then I started checking coils and found the primary of the First Detector Transformer (part 7) open. I unraveled a little of it and boy is that wire fragile. It's thinner than the secondary wire and is evidently pretty corroded the way it falls apart. This is scary for me. Unwinding to a repair point doesn't seem possible with the corrosion. I'll have to rewind it. Never done that before so I've been reading up. There is a video on YouTube that rewinds the exact coil, that's cool, and elsewhere I read that the exact number of turns isn't real important but it's about 50 turns of about #38 wire.

Before I begin are there any pointers or tutorials that any of you could help me with. My plan is to start with a lot of photos, sketches and dimensions, then use #37 enameled wire for about 50 turns on the same physical location as the old winding. I'll use some cellephane between the windings and maybe have some clear nail polish handy. Should I aim for a specific impedence or ohms reading? My confidence needs a boost here.

Thanks,
Alan
#2

Hi Alan,
Well your lucky it isn't secondary it's fairly critical in terms of # of turns. The primary does two things it provides a path for the dc hv to get to the plate of the rf amp tube and it inductively couples the rf signal to the input of the mixer (some called it the 1st det).
The # of turns isn't particularly critical as it isn't part of the tuned circuit. What I've done is just measure the width of the winding and rewind the new winding to the old width. As long as your wire ga is within a few # the width is going to close enough.
Some bake the coil at low temperature after the rewind to dissipate moisture from the form. I've been lucky and haven't had to to make a rewound coil operate properly. The osc coil are more sensitive to the moisture issue, it lowers the Q (efficiency) of the coil.
Sound like you have a good plan dive it and do her!

GL

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#3

Yes primary number of turns is less important. Secondary is.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#4

Thanks for the encouragement guys, I'm feeling pretty good, I'll let you know how it comes out.

Alan
#5

To make things even easier: this transformer will work even if you switched winding direction to he opposite. It is recommended you always keep it, but in case you screwed up, in this case it is no big deal.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.




Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Zenith H725
David - I think I understand but what units are you discussing (Low of 1.7, high of 3.9)? Budget constraints for Ham ...EdHolland — 01:43 PM
My Philco 37-116 Restore
You're doing great. I wish I could be more involved, but my mind is right now preoccupied with the reason I am here in ...morzh — 12:21 PM
My Philco 37-116 Restore
Hope you guys are still with me. I have moved on to the alignment. I completed the IF alignment which was pretty muc...dconant — 10:47 AM
My Philco 37-116 Restore
Hello MrFixr55, Thank you for taking the time to explain. I measured 50 volts where you say. Today the 370 volts at ...dconant — 12:51 PM
462ron
Oh that sucks. It’s something easily overlooked. Hopefully it’s nothing more than a resistor! Ron462ron — 08:08 AM
Philco 46-480 Electronic Restoration
Just confirmed that you are correct. It’s the function generator. I connected the signal output probe to one of the inpu...jrblasde — 07:52 AM
Philco 46-480 Electronic Restoration
Ouch, you may be right. Yes, it is solid state. It’s the signal output of my oscilloscope. May be time to crack that ...jrblasde — 07:27 AM
462ron
If you didn’t put a DC blocking cap between the signal generator probe and the plate of the 1st IF it’s possible you ble...462ron — 07:07 AM
My Philco 37-116 Restore
Hi DConnant, The reason why C127 is isolated from ground is because sets of this vintage did not have the center tap...MrFixr55 — 01:07 AM
Philco 46-480 Electronic Restoration
The shield is on the 6H6. It was, in fact, a missing jumper to connect the main chassis ground to the RF chassis grou...jrblasde — 10:58 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 1041 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 1040 Guest(s)
Avatar

>