Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

General finishing question
#1

    A Bit Of my history:  I have restored several radios including a 650.  I used Citri-Strip and a small brass brush.  Careful sanding, staining, and lacquer finish.  Veneer repairs and all.  Nice to the touch and looked like new.  I've never used wood filler, I don't understand what it does.

I recently acquired a new project. The finish on the 620 is thick, crackling, rough,and dark.  I applied a spot of citri-Strip on the front and was rewarded with beautiful  bare wood and inlay result.  I used some alcohol on another spot (right side) and was rewarded with the same beautiful result but with what looks like the original finish still underneath.   Smooth as glass, better than anything I've redone. 

Now my question:  Is filler whats needed to make the difference? I always thought of filler as something to fill in gaps and chips.

Dave Casazza
Keep em glowin and goin...
#2

I think you are talking about grain filler which is used to fill the grain in wood such as walnut. You see the grain in oak as well. If you don't fill the grain with grain filler you can also do it with many coats of lacquer and sanding but grain filler is easier (for me anyway). It takes some skill to do the job correctly and there are some threads on here that talk about it. Several brands of filler have been discussed including Constantines sells some though the WoodPerfect brand I see there seems different than what I remember. Another brand is Pore o pac, which you can find on amazon. I've used Timbermate as well.

If you don't use grain filler you will be able to see the pits/holes/ that are not level with the rest of the surface of the lacquer. Sometimes it takes several tries to get the surface smooth enough for the lacquer phase and I have yet to be able to do it perfectly. Some of our better refinishing folks will surely chime in as well.
#3

It sounds like someone coated your cabinet with some coloured shellac, I would keep stripping it with the alcohol and see what's underneath that brown mess on the rest of teh cabinet.
Regards
Arran




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco 38-7 Speaker
I have let this one sit because of other duties. Now I am back, and I have a couple of questions. I hooked up a Hammond ...tludka — 05:34 PM
Philco 42-390, code 121 speaker
>>A closer examination of the very small print schematic indicates that the speaker is a PM type. This shows a ...morzh — 05:18 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
Litz is typically tinned by simply rubbing it with the soldering iron tip while immersed in solder (and a bit of rosin f...morzh — 05:14 PM
Philco 6K7
The suppressor grid (if by G3 you mean the S) is usually at the Cathode potential, which in this caes is GND. I am not ...morzh — 05:10 PM
Philco 16B Parts
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately the radio was removed before bidding was over so I didn't get a chance to bid.dconant — 04:10 PM
Philco 16B Parts
Hi Dan, Mike is correct, there's a lot of painted stuff on the chassis but it looks pretty good. The sm is all there,sp...Radioroslyn — 03:50 PM
1930s Stromberg-Carlson Tombstone Radio need help identifying model number
Hi Cap'n Clock, Unfortunately, I do not have this radio.  This is a shame because this should be a good performer.  2A...captainclock1988 — 03:43 PM
Philco 42-390, code 121 speaker
Using a 5W  1.5k  ceramic resistor in place of the field coil and using a 4 ohm PM speaker, I was able to bring the radi...Stevelog — 02:57 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
I have taken out the 2nd IF and found a problem or not. I believe the coils are litz wire. There is a very small strand ...dconant — 02:13 PM
Philco 6K7
I am restoring a Philco 37-60. The am reception is very good, but the shortwave is very weak. Run 6 Philco removes the g...bobbyd1200 — 01:35 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 5039 online users. [Complete List]
» 3 Member(s) | 5036 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatarAvatar

>