Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

46-200 Restoration -- Mixed Results -- Help Please
#1

I just attempted my first radio restoration -- Philco Transitone 46-200.  Replaced capacitors and resistors.  Aligned by ear...  if that is even a thing.  I don't have a signal generator, etc.

I am pleased to report there was no smoke when I powered it up, and it works.  So that's a plus.  Icon_surprised)

However, I do have a few concerns and questions.  Turning to the experts for help.

1)  Is it normal to have a very low/faint volume (I can hear the station tuned) even when the volume is all the way down?  In other words, it doesn't completely mute.  Not a big deal.  More of a curiosity.

2)  Why would I have a low hum when the volume is all the way down?  The hum is low enough that as the volume is turned up, it "drowns out" the hum.   I would like to eliminate the hum.

3)  Here's the biggest deal...   I have a problem with the tuning capacitor (I think).   It tunes well and picks up stations until I get down to about 650.  Then a scratchiness starts as I continue to turn the tuning knob down to 550.  The scratchiness sounds like something is touching electrically that shouldn't, and it always starts at exactly the same spot on the dial.  And, a very strong local station (560) won't pick up at all...   the tuner is deaf between 550-650, except for the scratchiness while I'm actually turning the knob.  The tuning capacitor looks clean.  I used air and a no-residue electrical cleaner.  

Thank you in advance.

Bob
#2

1 could be a bad volume control but I'm betting on leakage between the diode and triode section of the det/1st audio tube. Would ignore it.
2 Lots of causes or it could just be inherent in the set.
3 Seem like you've got a bent plate on the tuning cap. Check the outside plates to see if they are rubbing on the plate next to it. If it is just bend it out a little.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#3

With the set turned OFF, attack an ohm meter across the tuning cap. Turn it through its full rotation, and note if the meter shows any change of resistance. Do this for each section. It sounds to me like one of the plates may be shorting to an adjacent one. In that case, some very slow and careful persuasion will be needed to bend it back to where it no longer shorts. There WILL be a resistance because the cap sections are connected across coils. If you want the clearest readings, unsolder the wire from the stator section before you measure it, but that is not really necessary. A short will show up either way. Often, careful observation is all that is needed to find it, not even an electrical check.
#4

Thanks, guys...  I was suspecting a bent plate too.   But wouldn't have thought of using an ohmmeter to check the tuning capacitor.  Learning so MUCH.

Thanks again.   Will update.
#5

One trick that I have used successfully to find where a plate might be touching or shorting out will require you to disconnect any wires connected to the tuning gang. Charge up an electrolytic and connect it to the frame and the other lead to the stator. Then in a darkened room, rotate the tuner and if there is a short or some debris between the plates, there will be a spark, helping you to locate where exactly the problem is. Also, using this method, I've had the discharge of the electrolytic actually clear the problem, sometimes! YMMV

Ron

Bendix 0626.      RCA 8BX5.   RCA T64
Philco 41-250.    Philco49-500
GE 201.             Philco 39-25
Motorola 61X13. Philco 46-42        Crosley 52TQ
Philco 37-116.    Philco 70
AK 35                Philco 46-350
Philco 620B.       Zenith Transoceanic B-600
Philco 60B.         Majestic 50
Philco 52-944.    AK 84
#6

You guys are so good.

One outside plate on the tuning condenser was bent and touching.

I couldn't see it without completely removing the tuning condenser from the chassis, but once I did it was easy to spot and fix.

Thank you so much for your help.   Radio now plays great, and tunes well throughout the entire AM band.

Bob




Users browsing this thread:
[-]
Recent Posts
38-10T chassis Restoration begins
Hello Dconant , they sold mica to use as a insulator between transistors and their heatsinks too. Rob I will remove th...radiorich — 02:52 PM
38-10T chassis Restoration begins
Thanks for the info guys. I always wondered why the use of mica. Now I know.dconant — 01:52 PM
38-10T chassis Restoration begins
Most common plastics have a dielectric constant in the 3-4 range whereas mica is around 6. This means that even if you w...Steve D — 01:46 PM
38-10T chassis Restoration begins
It is acceptable but not desirable. Plastic is not an approved cap dielectric, and even though a reasonably thick piece...morzh — 11:52 AM
38-10T chassis Restoration begins
I have a question about the mica sheets. I thought I saw somewhere on the Phorum where someone used thin plastic report ...dconant — 10:44 AM
38-10T chassis Restoration begins
Yes, you should carefully remove the mica sheets from the trimmers otherwise you risk trapping foreign material in the t...RodB — 10:34 AM
American Bosch Model 802 auto radio
Hi Joe, Thank you again. The American Bosch Model 634A has the same tube lineup as my Model 802 and the parts layout dia...Antipodal — 03:09 AM
38-10T chassis Restoration begins
hello everyone, I know it has been a while since I have posted about this radio but finally got chance work on it . I ...radiorich — 02:45 AM
Rusty Tuning Condenser
You could soak the fins in vinegar. You have to be careful if any pot metal is involved because the vinegar will dissolv...RodB — 09:20 PM
Rusty Tuning Condenser
Hello, I have a Philco 91 where the tuning condenser fins are rusty. I magnet sticks to them so they can't be aluminium....dconant — 05:50 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 3526 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 3524 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>