Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

37-630 sub-chassis removal...?
#1

Hi all- just joined, looking forward to the sharing of enthusiasm and knowledge here! I'm fairly new to this whole thing, having had zero interest in electricity/electronics for 68 years and then I saw "Electronics for Dummies" in our library and now I'm all-in, trying to learn what I can from books, forums, FB groups, and finding and restoring old radios. I have about 1/2-dozen restos under my belt, but recently picked up a project that's quite a bit more complex: I need to remove the sub-chassis in this 37-630 console so I can get access to component replacements, and to replace the rotten rubber grommets holding the tuning condenser in place. I'm very reluctant to just start disconnecting wires and un-bolting things with zero prior experience in this kind of electro-surgery; can anyone here point me to a step-by-step tutorial, or any other reassuring process that I can slowly follow?
#2

Welcome Oldcoot! Start by getting a very clear schematic, and thoroughly read it until you have a working idea of the project at hand. Second, take numerous photos of the chassis, paying attention to wiring paths for re-installation. Third, mark everything when possible, and be ready to replace a lot of wire with decayed insulation. Best of luck! Take care and BE HEALTHY! Gary

"Don't pity the dead, pity the living, above all, those living without love."
Professor Albus Dumbledore
Gary - Westland Michigan
#3

This web page helped me when I worked on a 37-630 table radio. It’s not a step by step but it has some good info.

 http://johnjeanantiqueradio.com/philco.htm
#4

Thank you, Tucker- that does indeed help! Hard to believe no wires need de-soldering/cutting! Guess we'll see about that.
#5

Thanks Gary, will do. I also stumbled upon a thread/blog by Ron Ramirez which is exactly the kind of tutorial I was hoping existed somewhere on the Web. Getting grommets that I hope are right from RenovatedRadios, so I'll methodically forge ahead on this advanced-level (for me) deconstruction.




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
12' Philco
If it is 12', either Kareem or Andre would have to jump pretty high to look at the front panel. Kareem would have an e...morzh — 01:48 PM
12' Philco
And here's a story about the tires on the truck. Same "no-stoop" guy must have installed these! Take care a...GarySP — 01:17 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
I think they have only shown the secondaries of the transformer. Two of them feed the rectifiers' filaments.morzh — 12:58 PM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
Arran If the wire inside cans is the gauges you mentioned, the sole reason for that would be mechanical, to stiffen t...morzh — 12:56 PM
12' Philco
Rod, Yes, I know, but the Giant Philco is not around anymore either, so I go by whoever was alive fairly recently. H...morzh — 12:54 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
Absolutely no one is going to reverse engineer that circuit. Even the iron core is missing.RodB — 10:37 AM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
Thanks to both members for your help regarding wire and tuner mtg supports. regards--Johngeorgetownjohn — 09:33 AM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
Note that no power cord, power switch, or power transformer switch are shown. That (along with my experience with full s...DaleHCook — 07:09 AM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
A pair of wire strippers can give you an idea of what the existing gauge of the wire leads are in the IF can, I think it...Arran — 06:07 AM
My last cabinet for this year
Hello Dan, That is really beautiful what great looking radio you have ! I have friends who live in Calgary and the wea...radiorich — 01:51 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 4483 online users. [Complete List]
» 3 Member(s) | 4480 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatarAvatar

>