[Paul Philco322]

In the packaging biz we refer to the package as a clamshell or blister pack if on a cardboard. So we are using the package for the plastic and careless about the product inside. Paul

[RodB]

Blister Pack, that's what I was trying to remember!

[morzh]

Yep.

'Cause when I heard "buibble" I immediately thought of this

   

and started wondering how this polyethylene or whatever this is film could be used for a spider.

[morzh]

Milkjug plastic?

[Arran]

Mike;
I would not use plastic from a milk jug for a spider, first it's polyethylene/polypropylene which resists most glues, second milk jugs are pretty thin and you need some rigidity in a spider, and third the plastic tends to become brittle after a while. I think that the PETE plastic would work better, if it's thick enough. When I made some 45 rpm style spiders I made them out of a card type material, like you would find in a file folder, or a Christmas card. I think that the originals may have been doped with varnish or glue.
Regards
Arran

[Chas]

Milkjug plastic?

Whatever is chosen for the spider, the material must be compatible with popular adhesives...

The speaker can be assembled with any modern adhesive that is available BUT, the assembly process for an apprentice will be slower with possible mistakes aggravated by premature curing or mess of adhesive...

OEM speakers up to as late as the "Hi-Fi" era were assembled with collodion, a solvent removable adhesive. Jigs and other devices speed-up assembly so "pot life" was no issue. For the apprentice re-coner, a jig to hold the voice coil perpendicular to the cone face may be required. Easily made from tubing and a flat of MDF...

Use of a solvent removable adhesive is a more appropriate material to use during re-coning. The adhesive can be used to pre-coat surfaces and let dry, unlike a Contact Adhesive, a solvent adhesive will glaze over and will not be tacky. Coating both surface to be adhered and allowed to dry. Then, pre-position, clip, clamp or fix by weight or position the locations for cone, spider and voice coil. Not all at once but build as an assembly. When fixed in position, flow the appropriate solvent and wait 1/2 hour, the solvent will melt the adhesive and fix the parts in the correct position. Remove all temporary fasteners and add additional adhesive in high torque areas like the spider to cone to voice coil joints. Allow to cure, pull shims and test. A disposable plastic eyedropper is very useful, that is why the viscosity of the adhesive is important too. Other collodion adhesive brands may work if they are appropriately thinned to flow like G-C speaker service cement.

A once popular solvent adhesive was G-C speaker service cement, however, it may be hard to find. Duco cement may work or not, collodion was used to coat airplane canvas and model paper surfaces, to adhere facial costumes and coat canoes.

Saving a electro-dynamic speaker is noble in that they are not making anymore, at least for the repairs of radios and most anything substituted will be mediocre at best.

YMMV

Chas

[morzh]

Well, I killed the coil.
Tried to get to the end of that oxidated spot, but while holding the coil in hand, i let it slide and one of the sides bent and the wire quickly...escaped.
Then I proceeded unwinding the part I cut but it proved to be too onerous, and I stopped. I have the measurements: I might make or order the new coil.

The coil weighs exactly 1,000g (2.25 lbs). I think, AWG 33.

   

I have moved to the next project for now.

[Arran]

Mike;
As I was saying it doesn't look like they used much of a bobbin for the field coil, not like a Magnavox one would have. It's strange because the pie pan speaker coils do appear to have a cardboard bobbin in them, whereas that G series one looks like it was just wrapped in paper. I would guess that they had a removable bobbin for the G type speakers, maybe I should have a look at the 1929 Philco factory tour film again to see what they did do?
Regards
Arran

[morzh]

Could be. The central cylinder is OK, but the sides are...well. What's done is done.
I wonder if some standard bobbine would do, or at least be suitable for being sized down for this.

I also updated the post with H instead of G for the speaker type.

They are the same speaker; I think H is the one with newer plug (backelite round) whereas G is the one with the rectangular one, the sandwich of two phenolic boards.

[Arran]

Mike;
I would like to have a look at the speaker in my model 96, but the set is packed into a corner in the basement. The plug is the same as yours, a four pin job, with three fat pins rather then two like a type #80. What I don't know is if my 96 was made in Philadelphia or Toronto, I don't think that the Toronto factory was set up by 1930 so they may have been assembling sets from knock down kits, and then using a Canadian produced cabinet.
Regards
Arran

[morzh]

Arran

Yours probably then the H speaker, same as mine.

[Chas]

Mike,

Lookup  murrayatuptown on ARF. Seems he has a dilemma with surplus field coils. Could get lucky and have what you need. Or, possibly some technique or data on field coils.

This Arf URL:

https://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=445636

Copper wire is very expensive, even scrap has a high value. Online shopping or possibly an ad in the Phorum or ARF could bring out what you may need for a rewind.

Also look up in Arf:

Barry H Bennett

https://antiqueradios.com/forums/memberl...le&u=44508

He had a posting some year ago concerning a surplus of magnet wire from the former Play Things of Past.

He was deciding how to market it and I put my name at the top of his list for the fine gauges. I have yet to hear but that is no matter.

It may be a chance for a bargain...

GL

Chas

[morzh]

Thanks Chas,

sure will give it a look!