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I have this on the other forum too and am just trying to get as many opinions as possible before I proceed.
I'm currently working on the electronic restoration of my Zenith 9-S-262 and need to start thinking about what I want to do with the cabinet. For the most part it's in pretty good shape except for 2 major flaws. The first is a piece of veneer missing right on the curve (of course). I've thought about adding a patch but am not sure what type of veneer this is. Seems different than standard walnut. Are there other alternatives to a veneer patch (i.e. wood filler)?
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The second problem is the right side on top is separating. How can I get this snug again? It does not feel loose so I don't think a clamp will bring it snug without causing damage.
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Once I get it patched I planned on trying a technique I saw on YouTube. It's a 3 part series called "Refinishing Without Stripping".
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oLqDgJRsY5Y
I'm not the best woodworker so I'm open to any and all suggestions on how to proceed.
Thanks,
Geoff
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I don't know for sure, but the veneer may be mahogony.
As for an alternative method of patching, wood putty may work, but it will be very difficult to match the grain & will likely stand out like a sore thumb. Since it's a curved surface on the front / top, I think putty would be likely to crack or flake off. I think a veneer patch would be your best bet.
The gap on the top is probably due to expansion & contraction of the wood. Since it's not loose, maybe just screw in a couple of braces to the inside of the cabinet to prevent further separtation, and fill the gap on the outside with wood putty. It doesn't look like a big gap, so it shouldn't be too hard to match the color with a little stain.
Dave
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The veneer is quarter sawn French walnut I believe, mahogany was used on some radio cabinets but the majority during the 1930s used some cut or species of walnut veneer. Repairing that section will be tricky to do, you would have to cut a strip out parallel to the grain and lengthen it, veneer going over a curve is under tension so a small patch really won't work too well. If it were mine I would make the repair strip the entire length of the top and front panel rather then trying to cut across the grain and fit a shorter strip in there.
Regards
Arran
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You've gotten some good ideas to work with. As someone else suggested I think I'd go with a little wood filler and artists oil paints to blend in the color. Then try some fine tip pens or markers to draw in the grain. With a little trial and error I bet you can make that spot blend in pretty well.
On the crack I'd make sure you can't pull it together with clamps. If not then I'd be inclined to try a little filler in that small gap. Once again you can follow it up with some stain or oil paints to make it blend in.
John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
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Thanks for all the replies everyone. I think I will try a veneer patch and try to blend it in and then try the technique in the YouTube video above. If that is not succesful I will do a complete strip and refinish.
BTW, if anyone has a junker 9-S-262 and can spare a small piece of veneer please send me a PM.
Thanks again everyone!
- Geoff
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Quote:The veneer is quarter sawn French walnut I believe
Is the veneer on the sides the same as the front? To me it's hard to tell. If so I might harvest a small piece from the side in the rear to use on the front. That might blend in better than a new piece.
- Geoff
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Quote:Is the veneer on the sides the same as the front? To me it's hard to tell. If so I might harvest a small piece from the side in the rear to use on the front. That might blend in better than a new piece.
- Geoff
It may be but it would be difficult to remove a strip without destroying it unless it is already loose. Also the veneer on the right side is likely matched to the veneer on the left side since it is bent around a curve and visible from the front, so I wouldn't disturb it if it's in othewise good shape. It would actually be easier, if matching is a concern on the left and right side of the control panel, to cut a strip out of the opposite side of the panel the same width as the one needed for the damaged side and replace both with a strip of new veneer, then it will have a butt joint in the same place on both sides of the panel. But I don't think that matching is too much of a concern since the panel, and indeed the whole cabinet, seems to be covered with a medium walnut tone spray, as long as the grain is straight like the original stuff I think that the tone spray will obscure the butt joint and any minor differences in colour. I keep suggesting to replace a strip of veneer rather then a local patch since the chip is right at the curve, if you try patching only the chipped area then the ends of the patch may try curling up because the wood is under tension at the curve.
This problem is a real pain to deal with, it was one of the reasons I walked away from a Westinghouse console on craigslist, the veneer wasn't chipped at the curve of the control panel but someone had dropped something heavy on it and nearly punched a hole through it so it was cracked across the grain. It was a shame , it was a very nice cabinet at one time, but this sort of problem is difficult to repair invisibly without going to this sort of trouble, if it was chipped out of one end in a flat area you can make a small patch and make in invisible, on a curve though it always seems to show.
Regards
Arran
(This post was last modified: 06-07-2012, 08:23 PM by
Arran.)