Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

40-88 battery
#1

Can anyone please tell me what type of battery eliminator
I can use for this. I can not tell from the schematic I have what the voltages I have. I think it is a 90v, 1 1/2 v but am unsure.

thanks
Chris
#2

Chris, if indeed it is a 90/1.5 V battery is is quite easy and inexpensive to build an A/C power supply and incase it in a box. Cover with graphics and it looks stock, other than an A/C cord coming out with an in-line switch on it.
I have done 2 of these and they were fun to build. Maybe $30 for all parts, most for the aluminium box and the the board. The other option is to buy a bunch of nine volt batteries and hook together for a total of 90V and a couple C cells for the 1.5. I always thought that was messy and I don't like replacing batteries. Attached is a pix of what I made for a couple of farm radios.
Jerry


[Image: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn129...Radio2.jpg]

A friend in need is a pest!  Bill Slee ca 1970.
#3

Nice job Jerry!!!
Terry
#4

Thanks Terry, why someone wants to hook up all those batteries, well, one set plus something to mount them in, and if your going to use it, it gets a little pricey. The A/C power supply works very nicely and the radio shown, plays very nicely, with no hum at all. Wish I would have saved the graphics, it came from some U.K. website. Seems it has been closed down.
I'm certain someone saved this stuff. All parts I purchased from Mouser. The aluminum box was within fractions of an inch of the original battery. Had to do a little work on the computer to size properly. Making the female connector was easy. A piece of brass tubing and a small piece of thin plywood. An enjoyable project that worked well.

Jerry

A friend in need is a pest!  Bill Slee ca 1970.
#5

Let me dig around a bit I should have the grafics on CD. I downloaded them a while back.
Terry
#6

Philcofan - yes, the original voltage of the battery was 1-1/2 volts for the "A" (filament) supply and 90 volts for the "B" side.

Jerry - I agree with Terry, nice work! Icon_thumbup

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Shadow Meter Bulb
Phorum members, I am trying to find the bulb # for PHILCO Shadow Meter part number 45-2180 that is from a 37-640 chassis...georgetownjohn — 06:53 PM
Philco 41-608 changer coupler
3D-printing...short of machining, of course. Or molding.morzh — 05:20 PM
Philco 41-608 changer coupler
Thanks, Morzh. That solves the issue of the rubber pieces. Now, I need to find a way to replicate the pot metal piec...alangard — 05:07 PM
12' Philco
If it is 12', either Kareem or Andre would have to jump pretty high to look at the front panel. Kareem would have an e...morzh — 01:48 PM
12' Philco
And here's a story about the tires on the truck. Same "no-stoop" guy must have installed these! Take care a...GarySP — 01:17 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
I think they have only shown the secondaries of the transformer. Two of them feed the rectifiers' filaments.morzh — 12:58 PM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
Arran If the wire inside cans is the gauges you mentioned, the sole reason for that would be mechanical, to stiffen t...morzh — 12:56 PM
12' Philco
Rod, Yes, I know, but the Giant Philco is not around anymore either, so I go by whoever was alive fairly recently. H...morzh — 12:54 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
Absolutely no one is going to reverse engineer that circuit. Even the iron core is missing.RodB — 10:37 AM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
Thanks to both members for your help regarding wire and tuner mtg supports. regards--Johngeorgetownjohn — 09:33 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>