Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

V-M record changer revamp
#1

I am attempting to restore a 1956 VM changer.  After watching a couple YouTube videos, a took things apart, cleaned and relubed. I replaced the rubber mounts, cleaned and lubed the motor. The rubber idler wheel seems soft and pliable. Well, it still slips or is dragging. What are your experiences with this type of problem? I don’t know if I should go ahead and replace the idler or go through the transmission again. I did not pull and clean the tone arm. I can “help” it go through the cycle, and things do seem a little tight. I’m open to suggestions. First crack at one of these.

If I could find the place called "Somewhere", I could find "Anything" Icon_confused

Tim

Jesus cried out and said, "Whoever believes in me , believes not in me but in him who sent me" John 12:44
#2

When you say it "still slips",  are you meaning only when its going thru the change cycle? . . . or at all times?
#3

Jake, it slips when going through the cycle. I may need to pull the tone arm off, clean and relube that area. I didn't do that part. If it still slips then its about got to be a bad idler.

If I could find the place called "Somewhere", I could find "Anything" Icon_confused

Tim

Jesus cried out and said, "Whoever believes in me , believes not in me but in him who sent me" John 12:44
#4

"Jake, it slips when going through the cycle."

I was only wanting to make the distinction because of the small chance the change mech is binding or frozen up, . . . but indeed, it's probably just  a bad idler wheel.   These VMs actually had quite a bit of torque to them, so if you can slow or stop the platter with a slight pressure from a finger on the side of the platter, it's the idler, and perhaps no major problem with the change mechanism.




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco 46-420 Code 121 Reception issues
You mentioned the Philco manual and going through the check points...just to be sure we're on the same page here's the m...klondike98 — 08:13 PM
Philco 42-1008 conversion kit
Interesting. I haven't seen that before.klondike98 — 07:02 PM
12' Philco
Yes I had looked for it on the web as well some time back and could not find it. I was glad to see it turned up in Ron'...klondike98 — 06:59 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Now if you had a set with a tuning light then the bulb type is important to the circuit, some sets used those prior to t...Arran — 04:58 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Ok. Thanks for the correction.RossH — 03:09 PM
Model 28L
For 28 you will probably need to buy a Hammond 125CSE. Or any of the series of the power you need, with SE suffix. Then ...morzh — 02:09 PM
37-60 revision 6
I am restoring a Philco 37-60 and it shows run 6 they removed the ground from G3 of the 6K7G and put the G3 to -2.5v for...bobbyd1200 — 01:01 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Mike is correct on the bulb connection, two separate circuits. I found that by rotating the bulb and sliding it forward ...RodB — 12:19 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
Cleaned ann contacts, switches and sockets, works great now.martinj — 11:32 AM
Model 28L
Hello, I'm restoring a Philco 28L and the output transformer is open. Part number of the transformer is 32-7020. Can...HORSTE — 10:32 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 2947 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 2945 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>