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The control may or may not have to be unsoldered to remove it from the chassis, but it probably will unless there is a lot of slack in the wiring. The usual trick was to solder a jumper between one side of the switch and the bottom end of the pot using that as the tie point for common negative, so the two will have to disconnected from one another. Depending on how it is constructed you will have to unbend the tabs on the front of the control to get the cover off to get at the tabs that hold the switch on, that is if the switch has to be replaced.
If you are lucky you may be able to take the cover for the pot off, and with the switch still attached, soak it in some solvents to dissolve the crud inside the switch to free it up and clean the contacts. If you are less lucky you may have to strip it down further, remove the switch section from the control cover to gain better access to the internals, which is not something you want to do if working on small mechanical things is not your forte. If you are unlucky it will be broken inside, or the switch contacts will be burned and no amount of cleaning will fix it.
Regards
Arran
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I think it is not crud. I exhibits zero cinductivity. After multiple attempts. Which to me means the contacts do not even touch.
With od Philco switches like 20/70/90/111 type bad contact is common but there is nevertheless a contact, and once it conducts, it self-heals.
This type has no contact whatsoever.
Buying a new working part is easier and with this situation the money saved is not worth the effort.
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The pot came today, NOS, 6 bucks....what beats this?
I was afraid of desoldering stuff so not to ruin wire, but Radio Gods smiled at me today and no wires lost insulation. I replaced just one wire - looked a bit chewed up after me handling it with needlenose and soldering iron.
Now all works like it should.
Took me about under 1/2 hr.
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Good work! 
I was gonna scratch your cabinet if the job was incomplete. 
Cant wait to meet up. next, next weekend with you and Sam.
Bring a cabinet so I can pawn some more chassis off on you to repair.
You know you want to tackle that Silvertone 45! 
Kirk
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Kirk, you ought to see about getting your model 16X working properly. They are a very good radio!!!
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City: Jackson, NJ
Anything that has 16 in it is
37-116, 116x, 16 etc.
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supposedly it was redone a few years ago but I havent opened it.
I opened the G500 Zenie I got from the same guy and OMG it was a terrible resto underneath. he just touched and soldered the wires. there was a resistor just sitting on the bottom of the cabinet and 2 wires disconnected.
So I cant wait to see the 16 underneath.
I have too many radios open right now so it will have to wait if I keep it. I dont think I have room for it and it has been on Craigslist for a week or 2 and no bites at $125.00 
Gosh I need my house back...
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You need it back - I need a new one - this one does not have any good place to put the measly 16 radios I got.
Let alone the kind of collection Russ got in his place. 
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If you can fit it in your car with Sams 38-3, it's yours Mike
I may just have a chassis or four for you anyway,
Times I have been electrocuted in 2021
As of 1/01/2021
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Last year: 6
Posts: 15,811
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Posts: 15,811
Threads: 553
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
Fixed the power switch in the volu.e pot. Was really oxidized. Then lubed the pot. Will keep as a spare.
Posts: 4,109
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Times I have been electrocuted in 2021
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