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46-1226 code 125 restoratioin *DONE
#16

(03-28-2017, 12:47 PM)jcassity Wrote:  Can anyone tell me if there is value in a serial number.

No, none whatsoever. It meant something when the radio was built, but it's basically meaningless now save for certain Philco models such as the 70, 90, and 112.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#17

sam~. the prints chuck supplied are top shelf and he deserves credit & props for the efforts to cypher this puzzel.  Highly recommend his services and his information was well worth the recommendation i got here.

Lessons learned so for....
for a 46-1226 code 125 chassis, the code 121 prints will work for you really good but you will find power supply & speaker and converter info in conflict with code 125 physical chassis.

There is no known schematic available for the code 125 stand alone.

Also,, and most importantly,, dont get yourself to used to working with a code 121 print if you are planning to get more accurate ones like i did.  everything of how parts are named is different.
~for instance i noticed on code 121 the closer i moved from input power out to the antenna, the component identification numbers decreased.  example... r6 would be close to the antenna while something like R31 would be lose to the power supply AC input.

somewhere this all changed and someone go an idea to break up the schematic into sections.
the same methodology applied but within sections.

example,, R101 would be in "section 1 consisting of the power supply ac input. 
this same resistor R101 on the earlier codes was called R30!

another random example,,, R401 in section 4 ,, this would be R3 in the early code 121 prints.

I took the time while using code 121 prints to fine tip sharpie the component number directly on each item.
now that i have the current prints..  well... all my fine tip sharpie stuff is wrong...
#18

well,,, got a dozen different caps on order,, so i purchased 5 of each.

will have some more spares.

Gary over at Play Things of the Past is great!  has all this stuff we want for our projects.  an amazing inventory
#19

Sam, i reglanced over your post,, i think your right about model confussion.

the cabinet i have says 46-1226 code 125
the radio does not have this information,, just random ink stamping.
The code 121 prints were working for me most of the time,, I'll say about 95%.

I ordered up prints from chuck, requesting code 125
I got Code 122 prints instead because there seems to be no dedicated prints to code 125.

Code 122 prints include updates to code 121, 122 and code 125.

Problem is the difference in "looks" from code 121 to code 122 are vast.
#20

Working on old radios is like working on a old car (MG). When I have a problem what comes to mind the joke about why the British drink warm beer answer Lucas made refrigerators. David
#21

now on to my difficult questions.

see picture
Q- to the left is code 122 prints and at no point is the on off switch tied to my rectifer tube.
In the real world, i have what is hand sketched to the right.
I did some reading and saw people talking about how to bypass the primary of the power xfrmr when it craps out.
Does it appear this mod was done here?

Q- The code 122 prints indicate i should have a dozen conductors on my transformer Pri&Sec  combined.  I only have 10 conductors total.
There is one single conductor that is spared back with tape on it and its been like that prior to me touching.

The radio has played in this config until i decided to rework it.

IT did hummmm upon initial power up so i am taking care of filter caps and such.

This is an important next step for me so i will move on to cap and resistor replacement while someone notices and maybe replies.

Q- Is there any way for me to identify other than resistance values what conductors on my xfrmr are?
The prints indicate a color code the secondary's but all i can see is a bunch of brownish cloth covered wires.
I can "almost" see a hint of color in a couple but feel like its my brain eye coordination wanting to see it.

pay no attentiion to the "speaker field", i dont have that on code 125 updates.


Attached Files Image(s)
   
#22

t.t.t.
#23

(03-31-2017, 07:46 PM)David Wrote:  Working on old radios is like working on a old car (MG). When I have a problem what comes to mind the joke about why the British drink warm beer answer Lucas made refrigerators. David

Or Lucas prince of darkness.
Use to sell foreign car parts in the '70s

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#24

>Q- to the left is code 122 prints and at no point is the on off switch tied to my rectifier tube.
In the real world, i have what is hand sketched to the right.
I did some reading and saw people talking about how to bypass the primary of the power xfrmr when it craps out.
Does it appear this mod was done here?

No.
The pins that the white wires are connected to are not connected to the tube internally.

>Q- The code 122 prints indicate i should have a dozen conductors on my transformer Pri&Sec  combined.  I only have 10 conductors total.
There is one single conductor that is spared back with tape on it and its been like that prior to me touching.

Methinks your power transformer has been replaced w/a generic replacement. Note the black crud by the output tubes socket. Looks like tar from the old pt.

>Q- Is there any way for me to identify other than resistance values what conductors on my xfrmr are?
The prints indicate a color code the secondary's but all i can see is a bunch of brownish cloth covered wires.
I can "almost" see a hint of color in a couple but feel like its my brain eye coordination wanting to see it.

You can tell by what they are connected to. The resistance measurements don't tell you a lot anyway. With a non original pt it will differ from the philco diagram. Your "new" pt may only have one 6.3v winding rather than the two like the original.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#25

(03-31-2017, 07:46 PM)David Wrote:  Working on old radios is like working on a old car (MG). When I have a problem what comes to mind the joke about why the British drink warm beer answer Lucas made refrigerators. David

I can relate to this, having restored this one:

   

Rich
#26

(04-03-2017, 03:12 PM)jcassity Wrote:  now on to my difficult questions.

see picture
Q- to the left is code 122 prints and at no point is the on off switch tied to my rectifer tube.
In the real world, i have what is hand sketched to the right.
I did some reading and saw people talking about how to bypass the primary of the power xfrmr when it craps out.
Does it appear this mod was done here?

I found this in my 47-1230 as well.  They used pin 8 of the 5Y3GT socket just for a terminal.  There is no internal connection to the tube itself.

Rich

2017-04-04   CORRECTION!   It's actually pin 7 they are using as a terminal, not pin 8 as I stated previously.  Sorry
#27

some progress pics
moving right along and naming components as i add them so its easier later on.
In one of the IF transformers the paper insulator was stuck to i replaced it with fish paper.  I wrote a note to my son's on it then wrapped it around the IF and sealed it up.  Wonder if they will ever see it.


Attached Files Image(s)
       
#28

I think that Terry may be right, the power transformer is a replacement of some kind, though the mounting is the same as the original, I wonder if it came out of a larger radio or a TV set? One way to identify what winding is which is by measuring DC resistance, it won't tell you what the voltage ratings are but it should tell you which is the primary, the H.V secondary, and the two filament windings. Then after you sort that out you can try powering it up and measuring for volatges, but be careful with the H.V secondary, there is 700+ volts AC there between the two legs.
Finding an exact replacement transformer would be near impossible without getting a parts chassis, there aren't too many that have three filament windings, one of which is center tapped. Center tapped filament windings went out with directly heated tubes like #45s and #71As, with indirectly heated tubes like AC loctals it's not really necessary.
Regards
Arran
#29

I am creeping up on adding a resistor.

what wattage is this 300ohm resistor?
note: the updates say this is a 300 ohm but the pn tells me its a 330.

33-1336-4

this must be a pre-1936 pn?
#30

>updates say this is a 300 ohm but the pn tells me its a 330.
Doesn't matter as it still is within the 20% tolerance.
Didn't see any 330 ohm resistor in the schematic, where is it??

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry




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