[jth877]

Oh it works in every way, but more noise than I care for on the AM band with a 71ft long wire in the attic (shielded on the way up). When I use a loop, it almost eliminates the noise. My next project is to run a long wire outside. I like using the 9s262 better than my 8s463, BUT the latter has less noise. I just did the electronic resto on a 9s367 chassis for my father. It also has less noise than my 9s262. I think my area just sucks for long wire reception.


Maybe I need a 15 tube 1940 set....

[morzh]

Actually, I have a question.
On this radio of mine the volume regulator has the removable shaft that is inserted iside the pot, but i not in any way secured, so it only works when I press upon it to provide friction. It freely comes out, and the actual shaft is a short barrel, protruding above the threaded part (that goes through the chassis) by a couple of millimeters. It has a deep axial hole in it where the removable part goes.

I am not sure how it is supposed to be, mybe it is glued or something.
Does anyone know?

[jth877]

I see that the shaft is different than mine in the pics. The pot is exactly the same. The shaft should be just like the on/off switch, solid and attached to the pot.

Maybe someone repaired a broken shaft?

[morzh]

Well here it is.

Feast your eyes. Beats me what it is.

   
   
   
   
   

[morzh]

One more....

   

[rocketeer]

That's a replacement switch with a universal wedge fit shaft. Once the shaft is cut to the correct length and aligned rotationally you just tap the end of the shaft and it will wedge fast into the stub on the switch.

Larry

[morzh]

Rocketeer,

thanks. I tapped it some, it seems to grip after that, though I am not sure how it does it.
I expect it should be a bit conical to do this (is this what's called the "wedge" here); maybe it is, just not too noticeable. Then it should do it by sheer friction, correct?

(It's not a switch though, it's a pot).

[rocketeer]

Switch or pot, machs nix. Yes, it's slightly tapered so tapping it in wedges the taper into the stub. Very common with replacements. It allowed servicemen to stock less controls to cover more radios. For instance, there might be 7 different radios that all use the same control but with different shafts, short, medium, long, 1/4 round, 1/2 round, split, fluted, etc. Rather than having to stock 7 different controls he could stock one control and a selection of shafts. Now multiply that by all the different controls, vol (with or without power), tone, power, etc and you can see how much less controls were need to cover the same number of radios. Plus, if a customer broke a shaft he didn't have to replace the whole control, just the shaft.

Larry

[morzh]

OK, another problem. The Magic eye does not indicate, the sector stays open.
The tube was darkish, so I bought NOS for replacement, a 6e5. Still....so, I looked at it more. The 1MOhm resistor inside the socket is fully open. Shucks!

Any bright idea a to how to open the socket?
The pin 3 is not wired, so I cannot throw a resistor outside the socket.

And I feel cheap/ lazy to buy a new socket, let alone wire it.

[jth877]

Yeah, those sockets are awful...here's how to take them apart.

http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopi...6&t=196444

[morzh]

Thanks JTH

I can try that, although why lying in my bed yesterday with nothing better to do than thinking about the dang thing I came up with another idea.

I will take 0603 resistor, 1M, which is very small and flat, will solder two thin wire strands to it, and just put them in the sockets and put the tube in.

The power rating there is not really important.

Will try that before going to whack the plate out (plus it shows some developing cracks and may not want to come out in one piece).

Thanks again.


Mike

[rocketeer]

The problem with that is if the bad internal resistor shorts out. Better to remove the old one.

Larry

[morzh]

well, typically resistors don't short out if simply degrading over time.

Actually, unless a resistor chars, it does not short out ever.

In my case it is full open, the meter does not detect even a small leakage. So I actually can safely disregard this piece of ceramic in there.

Then, if my plan does not work, I will have to resort to violence and use that blunt tool to knock out the panel.

But hopefully it will work. Will try it tonight and let you know. Way less painful if it works.

[jth877]

The resistor inside is a wirewound, connect between pins 2 and 4, just FYI. The inside of the socket is labeled too. If you don't kill the socket cover, than it really isn't THAT bad of a job, just tedious.

Another option is getting a metal sided eye socket that is easy to take apart. I forget the official name for them at the moment. Play Things of the Past sells used vintage ones for $3. I had to do this on the 8s463 as the original eye socket (like yours) wouldn't stay together.

[morzh]

JTH

Well, found some wirewounds up to 50Mohms. I wonder how they achieve that.