Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

53-960 help with dial string
#1

I've got this radio electronically restored, and it works GREAT. But I've got issues with this oddball dial cord string arrangement.

I have service package for this radio, and it has a stringing diagram, but for some reason I'm just not reckoning it out. Does anyone have one of these that can take a few pics from various angles of the dial string, with special consideration to the part that goes around the tuning shaft (I realize that the tuning shaft works independent coil tuning for the spread bands)?

Thank you in advance.
#2

Brenda Ann
Yes I can see that pointer string diagram doesn't work. The lowest roller has three in on one side and only one out on the other. On first impressions I would try moving the right side pointer string to other side of the lowest roller.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!RESISTANCE IS FUTILE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  
                           /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
                                                     
                                 [Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...on_eek.gif]  Chris
#3

Here's a doctored picture of it. Sorry It's a little crude. Now it makes sense to me. You can see where I cut out the old line and drew in the new route. The strings just make a figure eight around the knob and the variable tuner.


Attached Files Image(s)
   

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!RESISTANCE IS FUTILE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  
                           /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
                                                     
                                 [Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...on_eek.gif]  Chris
#4

If you post some good pics of the radio I might be able to make sense of the drawing. The tuner shaft area is the part of interest. From the drawings it looks like there are three different strings or are there two different styles? Just how many different pointers are there?

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!RESISTANCE IS FUTILE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  
                           /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
                                                     
                                 [Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...on_eek.gif]  Chris
#5

After looking at the drawings for awhile it's starting to make some sense. Lets see if I have this right. There are three strings and the hard part is the main tuner.

The left drawing is for the pointer and is the front view.

The middle one is for the band indicator and is the easy one.


  The one on the right is the tuning condenser drive with the other two combined.

It looks like the knob drive shaft moves the pointer and tuner with different strings.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!RESISTANCE IS FUTILE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  
                           /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
                                                     
                                 [Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...on_eek.gif]  Chris
#6

So the condenser drive cord (the one with the ten turns) starts and ends on the knob shaft.  And it just winds back and forth meanwhile wrapping around the tuner condenser shaft.

The pointer cord wraps the knob shaft the 1-1/2 turns shown but both ends are at the tension spring.

Icon_crazy Icon_crazy Icon_crazy

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!RESISTANCE IS FUTILE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  
                           /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
                                                     
                                 [Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...on_eek.gif]  Chris
#7

I still think that pointer drawing might be wrong. I think the cord comes from the upper right pulley and then comes down around the right side of the knob shaft then does a figure 8 around the condenser shaft.

Clearly some engineer majored in dial cord stringing.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!RESISTANCE IS FUTILE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  
                           /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
                                                     
                                 [Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...on_eek.gif]  Chris




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Shadow Meter Bulb
Ok. Thanks for the correction.RossH — 03:09 PM
Model 28L
For 28 you will probably need to buy a Hammond 125CSE. Or any of the series of the power you need, with SE suffix. Then ...morzh — 02:09 PM
37-60 revision 6
I am restoring a Philco 37-60 and it shows run 6 they removed the ground from G3 of the 6K7G and put the G3 to -2.5v for...bobbyd1200 — 01:01 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Mike is correct on the bulb connection, two separate circuits. I found that by rotating the bulb and sliding it forward ...RodB — 12:19 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
Cleaned ann contacts, switches and sockets, works great now.martinj — 11:32 AM
Model 28L
Hello, I'm restoring a Philco 28L and the output transformer is open. Part number of the transformer is 32-7020. Can...HORSTE — 10:32 AM
Philco 42-1008 conversion kit
I read about a kit to convert the variable speed changer in the Philco 42-1008 into a single speed unit.  That would rem...alangard — 09:30 PM
HiFi (Chifi) tube amp build - but my own design.
Tim Well...a chassis is metal. Magnetic or not, it does not matter. A transformer has some hum to it. It is natural. Th...morzh — 08:40 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
I thought the 83 tube was bad because it looked white but it tests strong. Blue gassy though. I checked the fuse, it was...martinj — 08:37 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Ross I am not sure what current limiting effect the incandescent provides. They are two different parts of the sch...morzh — 08:31 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 6015 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 6013 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>