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Don't buy anything till I can get to the shop this weekend and see what the part #s are on the products. I will post some pictures of the products used also. Air brush is used sometimes where doing a fade on edges or other areas on cabinet where you want to highlight or do some antiquing or a custom job. I use the stain in the airbrush as a tonner. One quart of stain will go a long long way so get any thing in a gallon. All this staining and toning is done before the sealing is started.
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Really helpful - thank you for the pictures!
OK - here goes...
- The part I'm most curious about is how do you apply the sealer and clear lacquer?
- For the grain filler step, which one do you use?
- For the stain on the main part of the cabinet are you applying it with a cloth?
- Did you need to sand between any of the steps?
This is my understanding of the overall process - does it any way reflect reality?
I tried matching up with the photos:
1. Strip
[
2nd picture in
post #1]
2. Grain fill
[
4th picture in
post #1]
2b. Sand (?)
3a. Stain
-Wiping Wood Stain 'Medium dark walnut' on everything except for front center and wings.
3b. Toner
-Ultra Classic Toner 'Golden Oak' on front center and wings
[
2nd picture in
post #9]
3c. Airbrush (blend/highlight)
-Wiping Wood Stain 'Extra dark walnut' used to tone front panel mini wings and center darker, fade on bottom moldings and arch
[
4th picture in
post #9]
4. Sealer
-E-Z Vinyl Sealer
5. Decals (?)
6. Clear lacquer
-Buffcote Lacquer (optionally mixed with Classic Instrument Lacquer)
<let dry a while>
7. Wet sand and buff out
-If using piano/instrument lacquer in Step #6
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You got everything right except for a few things. Once your grooves are smoothed out including recessed area in grill where the grill cloth is up against, spray your black or extra dark walnut which ever you choose, then sand the grain filler off entire cabinet and the overspray will come with it , that will leave those areas that you painted nice and crisp. Then do your medium dark walnut stain, wiping on then wiping off while still wet . If you get stain on the wings or center you can sand it off. Then the extra dark walnut stain, used as a toner with air brush. If you get any on wing area sand it off , don't use thinner it will remove the grain filler. Now you can spray your light golden oak on center and wings, don't worry about over spray on this color because it wont change the over all color of the walnut infact it will blend into the walnut real nice and give you that shade that you see in my radio. Put your decal on after the second coat of vinyl sealer. Lightly scuff the sealer on cabinet and add decal. Then topcoat with buffcoat clear. Hope this helps. There's a lot to it, maybe I should do a video someday
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I have no doubt that such a video would be a god send for many here on the Phorum!
One last question:
Do you use a spray gun to apply the "E-Z Vinyl Sealer" and "Buffcote Lacquer"?
I've only tried used the Mohawk clear lacquer spray cans so far - and I've found it a struggle to produce a smooth surface without causing runs. How do you think applying the sealer and lacquer you used would compare?
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Sorry, for got you asked that question that first time, I use a spray gun (HVLP) high volume low pressure). You need a air compressor also, I don't think the vinyl sealer comes in spray can, but you can get sanding sealer in spray can which will work but don't use a pre catalyzed clear on top of it, use the buff coat clear which may come in spray can, not real sure on that though. Spray cans are not nearly as good as a good spray gun, if your really going to do a lot of painting you should invest in a spray (guns) and air compressor. Seeing your doing a small cabinet spray can clear will work ok if you do it right.
(This post was last modified: 01-31-2016, 08:12 AM by
Fred Taylor.)
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