[titan1a]

All the tubes ordered arrived but the 6F6's. The radio is really running nice save for the new 6J5 which is somewhat microphonic.  Will tube shields help this? We have about two months to completion with more parts on order. Just about the time I go in for a pacemaker. I'm trying to be patient!

Rick Ethridge

[titan1a]

Repairman did a temporary hook-up of the shadowmeter. It works!!! He says it isn't as sensitive on shortwave as BCB. BTW A number of radios originally sporting shadowmeters had them removed later in use. I saw a 37-630 on Ebay that had it's meter removed along with the spring clips on the bezel. Repairman needed to adjust it using a piece of paper to project its image. Still waiting for 6F6 tubes. I sure wish I could find the wire harness that attached to the chassis! I'll need to create one.

Rick Ethridge
Plattsmouth, NE

[Arran]

Repairman did a temporary hook-up of the shadowmeter. It works!!! He says it isn't as sensitive on shortwave as BCB. BTW A number of radios originally sporting shadowmeters had them removed later in use. I saw a 37-630 on Ebay that had it's meter removed along with the spring clips on the bezel. Repairman needed to adjust it using a piece of paper to project its image. Still waiting for 6F6 tubes. I sure wish I could find the wire harness that attached to the chassis! I'll need to create one.

Rick Ethridge
Plattsmouth, NE

 It's very likely that the set needs a full alignment, both with the IF cans and the antenna, RF amp, and oscillator settings for each band. Shadowmeters are not much different then magic eye tubes, they are typically dependent on AVC voltage governed by signal strength to react, since AM broadcast stations are typically much closer and much more powerful then the shortwave ones are they will respond more to a B.C.B station then a shortwave one.
Regards
Arran

[titan1a]

I found a cheap bezel on Ebay for the clips to the shadowmeter. It almost didn't make it. The speaker is away for repair and due back on Friday. Five weeks on the dial and phenolic diffuser. Two to three weeks on the 6F6 twins. Next is refinishing the cabinet. Pictures to come soon.

[titan1a]

Slowly but surely the Philco "scavenger hunt" is ending successfully. There were those who thought I'd lost my mind. I almost lost hope but persevered. There's still left-over money just in case. Is it worth it? I still believe so!

Received the 6F6 output tubes and the replacement grill cloth today. Over the last three weeks the caps were all replaced, the out of tolerance resisters and all the rubber grommets. All of the bad tubes are replaced. The shadowmeter was tested for fit with the, newly arrived,  retaining clips to the bezel and checked. The shadowmeter was temporarily connected and tested/adjusted. The band selector was lubed and turns smoothly as does the tuning control. Burned-out lights were replaced and will be re-aimed. I'm awaiting the replacement dial, light diffuser and rebuilt speaker. Preliminary tests show the radio is functional and after the last parts come in, will be aligned.

Last is the refinished cabinet. In the condition it's in, I don't trust my skills to do the job. I have an estimate of $500- $600. I could leave it "as is" with it's highly weathered "patina" but I wouldn't be happy doing a half-assed job. Any comments?

[titan1a]

HELP! While attempting to repair my 37-665B, my repairman states that raising the volume of the radio results in loud "pops." All the capacitors, resisters, and tubes except the 6K5 in the audio subsection have been replaced. Adjusting the volume doesn't change the loudness of the "pops." What is causing the problem? Your help is earnestly needed and appreciated.

[klondike98]

If the "pops" only occur while moving the volume pot shaft then the likely problem is the volume pot.

As far as thoughts on refinishing the cabinet it really comes down to what will you be happy with when its on your shelf? Got any pics of it?

[titan1a]

From my repairman:
I am still working on the problem. If I pull the bottom output 6F6, (on the schematic) the sound is fine. With both tubes installed, audio pops loud especially as the volume is increased and especially with music. If I pull the bottom tube (on the schematic) 6F6 the audio sounds fine, put the other one in and volume increases slightly, but as soon as I increase the volume loud popping starts up with the audio and music. I made a post on Videokarma about the problem under antique radios, hoping someone has an idea. Schematic doesn't make much sense to me, and I have replaced all the resistors and capacitors in that section. I tried reversing the leads to the ends of the audio output transformer and it's the same thing. I don't even see how a signal can be sent to the bottom 6F6 (on the schematic) as the center of the 2 resistors between them is run to the centertap of the power transformer. Also I have no idea what the .01 capacitor is doing between the screen grid of the tube on top to the control grid of the bottom tube. Other than that audio sounds great with only one tube put it. (the top tube on the schematic). If I just put in the other 6F6, (the bottom on the schematic) with the top tube pulled I have no audio at all. I don't see any way the bottom tube can even receive a signal from the 1st audio, and sometimes it just looks like an extra which is suppose to do What? I am completely dump founded. Although the 1st audio (6K5) is somewhat micro-phonic, I don't think that is causing the problem. Maybe someone on VK will have an idea.

Addendum: I was wrong when I posted -15 volts. I just got done measuring it and it's a bit above -3 volts. Maybe I have a power supply problem. Will do some more checking.

This is just to better describe the problem.

[Mondial]

The bottom 6F6 gets its grid drive signal from the screen grid of the top 6F6. If you look carefully at the schematic, the screen of the top 6F6 is not bypassed and is fed B+ through a 3500 ohm resistor. With this connection, an audio signal is created across this resistor, which is inverted in phase with respect to the top grid signal. In effect the top 6F6 screen acts as the plate of a triode phase inverter stage and the .01 uf cap couples this inverted signal to the lower 6F6 grid.

As far as the popping sound, it seems that you may have a low frequency oscillation or "motorboating". Check to see that all the electrolytic filter caps are connected correctly with respect to ground and polarity. Note the 10 uf bias bypass cap has its Positive terminal connected to the chassis.

[titan1a]

Now that I'm having my radio professionally refinished, where do I get replacement decals?

[Fred Taylor]

You can get decals at Radio Daze, go to there web site and order them.

[titan1a]

Thanks to all your help my radio should be returned to me, operable by the first of next month. It's been almost four months in the making and I look forward to it as much as getting a Christmas present. Expect a number of photos soon.

BTW I'll be convalescing from pacemaker surgery scheduled for the 14th. Both the radio and I should be in top form when again we meet.

[titan1a]

I need pictures of either a restored Philco 37-665B or 37-660B to use as an example to refinish my 37-665B cabinet. Thank you!

[klondike98]

37-660B
http://www.philcoradio.com/gallery/1937a.htm#av

From Ron's photo gallery.

[titan1a]

So very, very close to getting my "baby" back. Dial and diffuser screen duplicated and received. Cabinet still being refinished. Replaced on 6K7 tube as microphonic and noisy.

Just one thing... Shadowmeter seems to stick towards full open. Remove rectifier and vane closes. Tube problem? This just started this week.

Five long months to return a radio that was probably only worth the trash pile. I wonder what she'll be like when I get her back? Can't wait much longer!!!