[Ron Ramirez]

Here we go with yet another vintage receiver restoration.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...0T_001.jpg]

This Fisher model 200-T is a 1968 model and is rated at 20 watts per channel. It's new enough that it uses all silicon transistors. It is unusual in its symmetrical design, more like its larger (and older) tube cousins.

This particular one was still working, but one channel is a little bit weak and it is past due for some electrolytic replacements - everything inside is still original.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...0T_002.jpg]

I plan to replace all electrolytic capacitors in the power supply and audio output sections, along with the four rectifiers, and go from there.

I know some of you are wanting to ask, Why don't you leave the original rectifier diodes in place?

Here's why:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...0T_003.jpg]

It's going to take some serious heat to unsolder all of those diodes from the main filter electrolytic. New rectifiers are cheap, so I am not going to take any chances on ruining the old ones - it's easier to just replace them.

[KCMike]

 Looks like a nice receiver. The components underneath look to be easily accessible.
Anything on top need replaced?

[morzh]

If a channel is weak that's a tell-tell for a bad output lytic cap. After full recap it should work fine.

[Ron Ramirez]

Anything on top need replaced?

The audio output coupling capacitors (electrolytics) are mounted on top, and will be replaced.

I've already replaced the dial lamps with LEDs. I will probably replace the Stereo Beacon with an LED. But that won't happen until I've done the other work I have planned for this receiver.

[Ron Ramirez]

Okay!

Turning to the top of the receiver, I replaced the old Black Beauty cap that was connected between one side of the AC line and ground with a new safety X1-Y2 cap; also replacing the 820K resistor in parallel with that cap.

I nociced some 5W resistors were covered with some weird powdery stuff...

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...0T_004.jpg]

...so they were replaced.

[Ron Ramirez]

Next came replacement of the two audio coupling electrolytics.

I cut open each can and installed a new Nichicon "Fine Gold" audio grade cap in each can...

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...0T_005.jpg]

...then glued the cans back together...

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...0T_006.jpg]

...and, finally, reinstalled the restuffed cans and reconnected the wires.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...0T_007.jpg]

[Ron Ramirez]

Success...

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...0T_008.jpg]

After replacing the audio coupling capacitors, I tried the unit out on headphones and it sounded fine, so I decided to button it up and go no further with it.

The Stereo Beacon is still the original incandescent bulb. I took some voltage and current readings in order to plan for a future LED Stereo Beacon conversion. The multiplex adapter receives +15 volts from the power supply; this voltage drops to near zero at the multiplex adapter when a stereo signal is tuned in. I measured 28 mA being drawn by the incandescent bulb.

So that is it for this Fisher 200-T. It is good when repairs are this easy.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...f/easy.jpg]

[KCMike]

 Should be good to go for many more years.

[Ron Ramirez]

As it turned out, it really wasn't fixed.

https://ronsradios.com/2020/08/21/the-fi...-receiver/

It is now.