Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

can a 41-280 escutcheon go into a 42-380 cabinet?
#1

Have a battered 41-280, someone parked it in a shed for 30 years and the sides warped.  Would like to salvage the faceplate, buttons, glass, etc. but perhaps have them put into a 42-380 body that's in better shape.  Is this even remotely feasible?  And if so, how would I clean up the buttons?
 
Thanks!
#2

Hi Debra,

Yes - if you remove everything from the 41-280 cabinet, it should all fit in the 42-380 cabinet.

You can't use a 42-380 escutcheon with a 41-280 chassis and vice versa, though, because the 41-280 has 8 pushbuttons and the 42-380 has 9.

Bob has alrady given you some good advice on cleaning the knobs and pushbuttons here.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#3

(04-26-2016, 06:07 AM)Ron Ramirez Wrote:  Hi Debra,

Yes - if you remove everything from the 41-280 cabinet, it should all fit in the 42-380 cabinet.

You can't use a 42-380 escutcheon with a 41-280 chassis and vice versa, though, because the 41-280 has 8 pushbuttons and the 42-380 has 9.

Bob has alrady given you some good advice on cleaning the knobs and pushbuttons here.

Thanks for the info on switching out chassis, and also Bob's info on the buttons.  I've worked on the buttons and they improved, but do show considerable wear.  Will have to get "new" ones from http://www.renovatedradios.com/parts.html.  Do you know if there is more than one type for the 1941 consoles (41-280 and/or 42-380), that is, long, short, etc.???

Also re the band below the buttons, is that copper?  I saw the advice about not using Brasso on it....
  Thanks!!
~Debra
#4

(04-27-2016, 05:44 PM)debra Wrote:  Also re the band below the buttons, is that copper?  I saw the advice about not using Brasso on it....
  Thanks!!
~Debra

Hi Debra. The metal strip is brass I believe. If you use Brasso, i will remove a clear coating and get down to the actual metal. That also may remove the lettering. ( I forget if the lettering is flush with the strip, or if it is lower.) In other words filled with a paint.  If your strip is very badly tarnished, no amount of polishing that clear surface will get rid of it.
Also if the lettering is  not indented below the surface, you'd have to apply decals or lettering to replace it.
That's the worse case scenario. A lot of work to remove the old clear, polish the metal back bright, and then letter it, then coat with a clear to prevent tarnishing.  But, it can be done...
Good luck!
#5

(04-29-2016, 10:45 PM)gary rabbitt Wrote:  
(04-27-2016, 05:44 PM)debra Wrote:  Also re the band below the buttons, is that copper?  I saw the advice about not using Brasso on it....
  Thanks!!
~Debra

Hi Debra. The metal strip is brass I believe. If you use Brasso, i will remove a clear coating and get down to the actual metal. That also may remove the lettering. ( I forget if the lettering is flush with the strip, or if it is lower.) In other words filled with a paint.  If your strip is very badly tarnished, no amount of polishing that clear surface will get rid of it.
Also if the lettering is  not indented below the surface, you'd have to apply decals or lettering to replace it.
That's the worse case scenario. A lot of work to remove the old clear, polish the metal back bright, and then letter it, then coat with a clear to prevent tarnishing.  But, it can be done...
Good luck!

 Gary;
  I'm pretty sure that the lettering is embossed in the brass strip in some way, and then filled with paint, if it was not the lettering would have rubbed off on most of them a long time ago.
Regards
Arran




Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco 42-390, code 121 speaker
#87 on the schematic.  This radio had a 8" Zenith  speaker attached to it when I got it. I do don't know the hist...Stevelog — 06:39 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
I'm pretty sure I now have the litz wire soldered. This did not make any difference. Back in April I rewound the seconda...dconant — 06:25 PM
Philco 38-7 Speaker
Just to make sure, you chose either 4 ohm into 5K or into 10K? (blk-org or blk-grn)morzh — 06:23 PM
Philco 38-7 Speaker
I have let this one sit because of other duties. Now I am back, and I have a couple of questions. I hooked up a Hammond ...tludka — 05:34 PM
Philco 42-390, code 121 speaker
>>A closer examination of the very small print schematic indicates that the speaker is a PM type. This shows a ...morzh — 05:18 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
Litz is typically tinned by simply rubbing it with the soldering iron tip while immersed in solder (and a bit of rosin f...morzh — 05:14 PM
Philco 6K7
The suppressor grid (if by G3 you mean the S) is usually at the Cathode potential, which in this caes is GND. I am not ...morzh — 05:10 PM
Philco 16B Parts
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately the radio was removed before bidding was over so I didn't get a chance to bid.dconant — 04:10 PM
Philco 16B Parts
Hi Dan, Mike is correct, there's a lot of painted stuff on the chassis but it looks pretty good. The sm is all there,sp...Radioroslyn — 03:50 PM
1930s Stromberg-Carlson Tombstone Radio need help identifying model number
Hi Cap'n Clock, Unfortunately, I do not have this radio.  This is a shame because this should be a good performer.  2A...captainclock1988 — 03:43 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 3045 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 3044 Guest(s)
Avatar

>