Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Seeking Woodworking Advice
#1

I have a very nice Majestic 72 cabinet:
 
[Image: https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7465/27234...5f9305.jpg]
 
I'll preserve the original finish, but it has two flaws that need attention. 
First, a piece of scrollwork is missing.  Can someone suggest what kind of wood I should use to carve a new piece?
 
[Image: https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7455/27751...a43fb5.jpg]
 
Second, the top veneer has to be replaced.  I don't know what type of wood this is, but I have some mahogany veneer which I could use.  I've taken a small piece, stained it, and  lacquered it to see what it looks like.  Even if the grain pattern doesn't match, do you think this will look OK?  
 
[Image: https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7498/27506...fb69ff.jpg]
 
Thank you, wise ones.
#2

 For the carving you could probably make a replacement piece out of poplar, which was probably what it was made from originally, though if you are not skilled with chisels and knives find someone who is. Regarding the top, what makes you think that the veneer needs to be replaced? To me it looks like the finish was water damaged and that it possibly has a minor stain or two. Unless it's badly chipped and peeling off I would have a go at stripping the finish off first to see what condition the veneer is actually in before even thinking about replacing it, stains can often be removed and will sometimes come off when the finish comes off. For the record the species appears to be French walnut, but with the coloured lacquer on top it's hard to tell what species and what cut it is.
Regards
Arran
#3

Real neat!
 The Majestic 72 took a ride on the Hindenburg and was the first radio used in Zepplins...

Why does the veneer need replacing? If you just strip and refinish the top then you should be fine.. I dont see any damage to the original veneer...

Kirk


Attached Files Image(s)
   

Times I have been electrocuted in 2021
As of 1/01/2021
AC: 4 DC: 1
Last year: 6
#4

Poplar - Thanks. I've never tried wood carving, but I think I could do this blindfolded using nothing but a pair of toenail clippers! All kidding aside, I have to try it. My secret is that I'll get enough wood to make several attempts, I have no time limit, and I have an abundance of patience.

The top veneer is separated from the base in more than one area--not at the edges, but in the middle of the damaged areas. I think the damage is deeper than it looks, but I'll certainly try to refinish it before I trash it.

I love the Majestic ad. Is a higher resolution version available online somewhere?

Thanks again,
Henry
#5

    it looks like the top is in pretty good condition.. If the veneer is separating in some areas in the center of the cabinet, you can take some titebond glue and mix it with a little water [to thin it down] 
  Get a large syringe from a medical supply house. Put the glue in it and find an area where the veneer has lifted.
  Inject the glue between the veneer and the top. Wipe off any excess glue with a damp rag and clamp it or use  heavy weights to hold it down until it is dry. The spot where you inject the glue will not be seen after  you are done
  I do this before  stripping, as any excess glue will be on the lacquer instead of seeping into the pores of the wood.
 I have done this on some tops that were very bad and the results are quite good.
 
 Dan in Calgary

   Living in Calgary Alberta
#6

(07-14-2016, 07:07 AM)OldRestorer Wrote:  Real neat!
 The Majestic 72 took a ride on the Hindenburg and was the first radio used in Zepplins...

Why does the veneer need replacing? If you just strip and refinish the top then you should be fine.. I dont see any damage to the original veneer...

Kirk

Kirk
  That's the Graf Zeppelin, not the Hindenburg, the Graf Zeppelin was built in the 1920s and was famous for circumnavigating the globe, hence why Grigsby-Grunow got involved as a publicity gimmick to promote their radios.
Regards
Arran
#7

(07-14-2016, 10:23 AM)Winky Dink Wrote:  Poplar - Thanks.  I've never tried wood carving, but I think I could do this blindfolded using nothing but a pair of toenail clippers!  All kidding aside, I have to try it.  My secret is that I'll get enough wood to make several attempts, I have no time limit, and I have an abundance of patience.

The top veneer is separated from the base in more than one area--not at the edges, but in the middle of the damaged areas.  I think the damage is deeper than it looks, but I'll certainly try to refinish it before I trash it.

I love the Majestic ad.  Is a higher resolution version available online somewhere?

Thanks again,
Henry

Henry,
  At least you have an outline of it's shape left on the cabinet that you can trace. What I would do is go to a library and take out some books on wood carving to get an idea of where to start.
   As for the veneer being loose in the middle, a hypodermic needle and thinned out yellow glue would be the answer, but you may need to make an incision with a razor blade to get the needle under the veneer. Make sure you clamp it afterward, bar claps and a chunk of plywood (wrapped in plastic) to spread the pressure evenly.
Regards
Arran
#8

I got a piece of poplar at the wood store.  Didn't have time to get to the library to learn how to do woodcarving, so I sat down with my toenail clippers and went to work.


[Image: https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8633/27715...203f_k.jpg]

I cheated a little...I didn't use a blindfold.   Actually I used a box saw, my pumpkin-carving tools, and sandpaper.  This isn't glued yet.  This weekend I'll start experimenting with staining on some wood scraps.
#9

Impressive carving!!!!!!! Save the veneer, if possible, before replacing it. If all the pieces are there, that should be fairly easy.

Been thru Meridian many times when I had property in Grangeville.......
Steve
#10

Nice job!!
Icon_thumbup Icon_thumbup Icon_thumbup
#11

Very Nice carving JOB,,,must have sore fingers,,holding that small item,,,Cheers to ya
#12

I removed the lacquer from the top veneer, sanded it, and wetted the surface to see what it would look like after refinishing.


[Image: https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8755/28529...e9ca_z.jpg]

The black stain goes all the way through the veneer--can't sand it off.  I've only replaced one veneer before, but  the result was excellent and I have plenty of mahogany veneer left to do the Majestic.

My Airline Model 62-141

[Image: https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8887/28423...e203_z.jpg]

 It's a lot of work, but I think it's worthwhile.

Staining the newly-carved scrollwork was problematic because the poplar absorbed very little stain.  After trying several other methods, I finally mixed three different stains with small amounts of polyurethane--something like toner--and painted the new wood to match the old.  Then I top-coated it with clear polyurethane.  I tried to use lacquer, but it I couldn't get it to work.

[Image: https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8880/28347...e31f_k.jpg]

Looks good even though I cheated by using polyurethane.  Everything I know about woodcarving is in this tutorial:

https://flic.kr/p/KeUXsn
#13

 Try using Mohawk or Deft tone spray on the carved piece, probably a light or medium walnut, the wood probably needed to be sealed first with sanding sealer. The top is also walnut, French walnut veneer by the looks of things. You will probably have to experiment with some chemicals to get the stains out, either phosphoric acid or oxalic acid. Phosphoric acid will remove iron stains, you put it on the stained area, wait until  they fade, then wipe it off with a damp rag or paper towel and then dry it off. Oxalic acid is often used as a wood bleach and I have had no experience with it. 
Regards
Arran
#14

I had some success lightening black stains with oxalic acid wood bleach. See: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread...1#pid70611

It was slow, had to keep the stain moist for several hours if I remember correctly.
#15

I had Deft light and dark brown toners, but the actual hue is too red to use those. I can never get a photo to look like the actual color.

Oxalic acid sounds like a good idea, but the black stain is irregular and encompasses more than half of the area of the top veneer. Nevertheless, I'll give it a try.

Thanks,
Henry




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Shadow Meter Bulb
Phorum members, I am trying to find the bulb # for PHILCO Shadow Meter part number 45-2180 that is from a 37-640 chassis...georgetownjohn — 06:53 PM
Philco 41-608 changer coupler
3D-printing...short of machining, of course. Or molding.morzh — 05:20 PM
Philco 41-608 changer coupler
Thanks, Morzh. That solves the issue of the rubber pieces. Now, I need to find a way to replicate the pot metal piec...alangard — 05:07 PM
12' Philco
If it is 12', either Kareem or Andre would have to jump pretty high to look at the front panel. Kareem would have an e...morzh — 01:48 PM
12' Philco
And here's a story about the tires on the truck. Same "no-stoop" guy must have installed these! Take care a...GarySP — 01:17 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
I think they have only shown the secondaries of the transformer. Two of them feed the rectifiers' filaments.morzh — 12:58 PM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
Arran If the wire inside cans is the gauges you mentioned, the sole reason for that would be mechanical, to stiffen t...morzh — 12:56 PM
12' Philco
Rod, Yes, I know, but the Giant Philco is not around anymore either, so I go by whoever was alive fairly recently. H...morzh — 12:54 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
Absolutely no one is going to reverse engineer that circuit. Even the iron core is missing.RodB — 10:37 AM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
Thanks to both members for your help regarding wire and tuner mtg supports. regards--Johngeorgetownjohn — 09:33 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 6078 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 6076 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>