[vecher]

All, Ok starting on a RCA Victor T-55 AM Radio. 1939 or 1940 .. Not sure which.. The Cabinet isn't in to bad a shape..Probably a good one to start on for me as I haven't done any cabinets yet.. See Picture:

[Image: http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/...ewq0ja.jpg]

The insides are not that bad to work on.. Not many parts and not hard to get to..

[Image: http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/...f1sgfj.jpg]

But I have a question on the push buttons.. The 6 push buttons do not seem to do anything and not connected to anything Dummy buttons? Cannot find on schematic either.

[Image: http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/...ifl2s2.jpg]

[Image: http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/...v7kyqs.jpg]

Order a bunch of Caps for this and my others just acquired..

PS uses a Loop antenna on side of radio..

[Image: http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/...txxoy5.jpg]

So Project Begin's...

Skip...

[Radioroslyn]

Here's your set w/a phono. Disregard the phono. It also has the P/B adjmts.
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel...015871.pdf
It's also known as a RC-418 chassis.

Terry

[vecher]

Terry, Thanks That helps alot..

Skip...

[Arran]

Skip;
  That style of pushbutton mechanism used little strips of canvas or some other fabric, which deteriorate with age and snap. I don't know why RCA used them when they used better mechanisms in other models of the same year, but they can be repaired I think. There was someone on the alternative forum who repaired a similar style pushbutton bank on a Stewart Warner using modern fabric if you want to go that route.
 What I find interesting about your T-55 is that there was a  Canadian RCA and a Canadian G.E model that was very similar to yours, but it had a shortwave band and a magic eye in the center of the dial backing plate. Obviously they used the same chassis design and just added the eye tube socket and the extra coils and bandswitch.
Regards
Arran

[vecher]

Arran, That's interesting.. I know there are at lease 1 of those straps broken.. So right now just waiting for Caps to get started. I did do a Resistance check on the Transformer. All seems OK.. So that's a good thing Waiting for schematics from Chuck on the 3 Philco's I acquired with this RCA and the Stromberg Carlson..



Skip..

[vecher]

All, This is probably a stupid question. But Does anyone know what gauge wire is used on these radio?

I want to buy some color wire for replacement of the Rubber wire that is crumbling ..

Not sure if this has been asked before But if it was can someone point me to the right post?

Thanks

Skip...

[KCMike]

http://www.radiodaze.com/22awg-solid/
I use this type for replacing rubber wire. Lower right is what I ordered.

[vecher]

Thanks Sounds good. I just ordered some..

Thanks

Skip...

[vecher]

All, Going thru this a little bit I noticed the Speaker has a tear in it..Is there an easy fix without having to send it out?
[Image: http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/...fcd7hc.jpg]


Next their was a extra Capacitor on coil L1.. On top that isnt on schematic. Think it said 13 on it?? Any clue why its there?

[Image: http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/...d8ocpc.jpg]

Thanks

Skip

[klondike98]

One option for repairing tears in the cones is to patch them.  If you look around there are a number of threads by various folks on how they do it.  I was successful on a 60MB speaker using some coffee filters, elmers glue diluted 50/50.  You can always paint the repair to more closely match the cone color if needed.  

For some tears that are smaller, I've also just put some rubber cement over the tear (both sides if I can reach them).

[Arran]

 A smear of contact cement over the tear should fix it, but if the paper is somewhat brittle it might be a good idea to dope the rest of the cone with either contact cement or fabric glue, I don't recommend something like yellow glue as it tends to dry hard.
Regards
Arran

[vecher]

All, Started to take apart radio. Since the IF transformers wires were falling apart I started with them..

[Image: http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/...c5ittn.jpg]

Notice the bare wire where all insulation flaked of.. I measure the windings and they measured as in schematic right around 21 Ohms.. But when I tried to measure the Trimmer cap on top it didn't read on my meter. I am using a Wavetek Cap meter CM20A that I had laying around.. It measures caps find when I hook one up to it But will not measure the trimmer.. Unfortunately I do not have any other trimmers that I can try it on.. Am I doing something Wrong?? The IF is out of the circuit..

[Image: http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/...84wa0b.jpg]

Both sides or both Caps read the same. I haven't pulled out the other IF yet. Can both caps really be Bad??

Skip...

[Steve Davis]

Skip, in order to test the trimmers, they will have to be disconnected from the coils, if the trimmers are not shorted, they are almost certainly good.

Steve

[vecher]

Thanks That's encouraging... I will assume they are OK since I can read the coils resistance and its not shorted..

Skip...

[vecher]

Ok, I replaced wires on the IF transformer and measured the resistance.. Still at 21 Ohms.. That's good. Put back in can and hooked up to Signal generator at 455 Khz input and got a good peak on output with scope connected. Reversed the hookup and peaked the other Cap .. So 1st IF transformer is good now..

On to next one. Hope it goes as well as first..

Skip...