[GarySP]

That's what I would do, Ron.  Hand sand with fine sand paper until they match.  That or tear it all off and start again.  It's not worth tear down, and shouldn't be noticeable once finished. You may not even have to sand full length.  Just feather it in for about 2-3 inches down the trim and see if it's noticeable.  If it is, sand it the full length.  Take care, Gary

[Ron Ramirez]

Will do, Gary...wish me luck...I shall need it.

[GarySP]

No problem, Ron.  By the way, the sticking wax paper is my bad.  I meant to say parchment paper.  Take care, Gary

[Ron Ramirez]

It's all good, Gary.

This evening I took the top that had side trim slightly wider than the front trim...and following the application of sandpaper and sweat equity, I now have the side trim almost completely even with the front trim!

I also attempted to feather the top edges to the trim. I soon discovered just how thin the top layer of veneer is on the top piece. It isn't bad, really, and I think once the stain is applied that it will be fine.

Assuming the wood filler I bought truly is stainable as it claims on the can...it is doing a very good job of hiding the nail holes. I applied a little more tonight to some stubborn areas.

When I next go to the basement to work on this project, I will remove the other top and attempt to feather its top edges to the trim, adding some more wood filler as needed. The trim is the same width on the other top so that is not an issue.

[KCMike]

  This has been an interesting thread Ron. I know it is time consuming but could you put up some pics of your latest work if you have them?

[Ron Ramirez]

I haven't taken any pictures since Sunday (page 4, post #58, towards the bottom of the page). I did not work on it last night, and only did some sanding tonight on one top.

Once I finsih sanding and before I begain to stain the tops, I'll try to remember to take a picture or two of the prepared tops.

Oh, and glad you like the thread, Mike - thanks!

[GarySP]

Most wood fillers that I've worked with will take stain, but not as willingly as the wood itself.  You may have to dab on extra stain with a Q-tip on the filled nail indents and let it soak in for a while.  Take care, Gary

[Ron Ramirez]

Well, we shall see on that issue...

Meanwhile...

I pulled the second top from the cabinet this evening, did some initial sanding, reapplied wood filler in some problem areas, and put it back. Then I took the first top (the one I worked on last night), sanded it some more, and now it is ready for final sanding save for one spot where I had to repply a little wood filler.

And, as luck would have it, I shall need to purchase some sandpaper - I find that I am out of the finer grit paper.

We're getting closer to the staining stage...

[Ron Ramirez]

KCMike wanted photos so, while I was in the basement photographing my August Finds, I took one photo of one of the tops which shows where I burned through the paper-thin top veneer layer in the process of feathering out the edge to match the trim.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/bozak_025.jpg]

I still think (hope) that the stain will hide this error.

I did no sanding tonight. Got home late, I did buy some sandpaper on my way home so I'm ready for the weekend. This weekend I hope to not only do the finish sanding on the tops and bottom trim, but to stain these pieces as well. In case you've forgotten, boys and girls, Old Uncle Ron is going to stain the wood using Heywood-Wakefield Champagne stain which we had left over from having our Hey-Wake dining room set refinished. It's a very 1950s color which will be a very close match to the original. You'll see.

[KCMike]

Thanks Ron looking good and good luck with the staining.

[Ron Ramirez]

...finish sanding and then staining...

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/bozak_026.jpg]

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/bozak_027.jpg]

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/bozak_028.jpg]

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/bozak_029.jpg]

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/bozak_030.jpg]

I applied two coats of stain. It's water based so it dried very quickly.

I am very disappointed in the color. I knew it would be more of a challenge since the wood is new, but this is not matching our dining room set at all. Not that that really matters...but that was the color I was after.

And you can really tell where wood putty was applied in an attempt to hide a few bad places in addition to the nail holes.

On the bright side...you cannot tell where I burned through the paper-thin top layer of veneer on one of the tops - the stain did hide that very well indeed.

I am strongly considering spraying all of the parts with Medium Walnut toner and just going with that - I believe, at this point, that that would be closer to the original factory color than this is. Plus, the toner would be better at covering up the splotches where wood putty was applied.

Does anyone know if Rustoleum Lacquer is compatible with Mohawk toners? I really don't want to wait another week or two on ordering clear lacquer from someplace; I want to get this close to being finished tomorrow. Of course, I would have to do some sanding in between final coats and that would call for waiting until next weekend to spray the final coats...but that's OK.

[Ron Ramirez]

Go to eBay and do a search for "Bozak B 300 E-300". Due to Phorum rules I cannot post the link in this thread (although I have posted the link previously in the Items for Sale Online section). Look at that auction and then tell me if you agree that the color is very close to, if not exactly the same as, Mohawk Medium Walnut.

[Steve Davis]

Does anyone know if Rustoleum Lacquer is compatible with Mohawk toners?

Ron, I don't think there would be a problem. I have never use Rustoleum lacquer but, I have used several other brands of lacquer over Mohawk toner and have never had any trouble.

Steve

[KCMike]

 Looking at the Bozak  300 speakers online and trying to allow for the lighting when picture was taken and overall  wear of the tops, it seems like the medium walnut in ultra classic would work. That way you can apply coats to reach the desired tone color your wanting. You still might have a problem with the repair work showing.

[Ron Ramirez]

Thanks, guys - and Mike, in my experience I have found that Mohawk toners can usually hide flaws quite well...unlike stain, toning lacquer gives a very even color to the item being sprayed. Which is why, with vintage radios, toners are preferred over stain. (Also the fact that the manufacturers used toners when the radio cabinets were made.)

So...since there is no shortage of Rustoleum products in my area, I'll go somewhere today and pick up a few cans of lacquer...if all goes well, these parts should be looking as they should later today...