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All, It seems that I just cannot win this week. Since my 46-1201 was a mess I decided to start on the 430M I picked up in same place. But of course after I took it out of cabinet and turned over I found this..
[Image: http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/...plgyid.jpg]
Its the output Transformer.. So I checked the 2 output tubes ( 6V6's) Both were shorted.. Surprise???
all other tubes test good..
Do not know if tubes took out the Transformer or Transformer took out tubes.. Guess it doesn't really matter.. I will probably not find a replacement..
Resistance isn't listed on schematic either.. Go figure...
Does anyone know of a possible replacement??? Anything that would work?
Skip...
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Skip, I have done a number of Stromberg Carlsons and that looks like a normal transformer to me. They all look like that, the only real test is to ohm it out.
Gregb
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Ok, That's good news. I did ohm it and got Primary 350 Ohms Ctr tap to each end 158 and 192 Ohms secondary about .5 ohms..
Is that good?
Skip...
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That sounds ok to me
Gregb
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I just measured the Field coil on speaker. The schematic says 1050 Ohms for L-20.... I measure 808 Ohms.. Is that a Problem?
I also measure on speaker at L-19 1.9 Ohms I assume that's OK ..
Skip...
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All, I guess this is a dumb question.. But how do you get then glass off on this radio. Seems to use 4 Rubber corners but cannot seen to find how to get them off.. Without breaking them..
[Image: http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/...0x6rv9.jpg]
Skip...
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Skip,
Our friend Buzz1151 on YouTube did a video series restoring a Stromberg Carlson 430-H, and on the final part you can see him reinstall the dial glass. Should work the opposite way to remove.
[Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wNGFOShNms]
Greg V.
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Ok, Thanks I did look at his videos.. Very interesting.. I did see him putting the glass back in but nothing on removing it.. I will have to look at it closer..
Thanks
Skip...
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WOW,,that transformer-----first look at it ,,you would think that it is Cooked,,,,but,,I see that the part numbers ,,,are still showing on top of the tar,,,,
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(08-27-2016, 06:06 PM)vecher Wrote: Ok, Thanks I did look at his videos.. Very interesting.. I did see him putting the glass back in but nothing on removing it.. I will have to look at it closer..
It looks to me like he just carefully pried the rubber corners open a bit to slide the glass out. I'm sure the rubber is very hard and brittle by now, and will make removal a bit tricky. As shown on the video, Buzz's corners cracked in the process of removing / replacing the glass. You can use a dab of Permatex Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant on each corner to secure it back in place once the glass is cleaned if that happens. If the rubber is not at all plyable and you're afraid of breaking the glass, I would take an X-Acto knife and just slit two of the rubber corners (both on one side) in the middle. Once one side is out of the rubber you can just slide the other side out to safely remove it. Again, a dab of the silicone on each corner will secure it back in place. I used this method to secure the glass in my Model 41-245 Philco with a tenite dial bezel (after the molded clip posts on the bezel broke off at the slightest touch) and it worked great.
Incidentally, 'ol Buzz reflocked his dial backing plate with green flocking material. It appears yours was originally green as well. They fade to a brown color with age and light exposure.
Greg V.
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Thanks I was able to get it off.. Thanks for all the tips..The rubber was still quite pliable..
Next Stupid question. With what do you clean the dial with. I heard horror stories of the lettering coming off on some dials..
I am recapping now. And using the original caps by re-stuffing them.. Neat trick.. Except for the Electrolytic can. I got a replacement from Play things of the past that was a perfect fit.. Taking it slow as not to put parts back in incorrectly. One at a time..
I will have to look at video again to see what he did with the re-flocking...
Thanks
Skip...
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Glad you got it out safely. Speaking only for myself, I use Windex on dial glass. You should be safe on the outside but on the backside, try it in an inconspicuous spot over some of the yellow area to make sure the paint doesn't come off. Just be gentle...use soft white paper towel or a Kleenex.
Good idea with going slow on the recap. If you have a parts list, check them off as you replace them. That way you can double check as you go that you replaced with the proper value and voltage rating.
Not sure which video the reflocking was in...believe there are 11 or 12 videos in the series. Fun to watch, though!
Greg V.
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Actually the flocking behind your dial doesn't look too bad, unless it's faded and you want to redo it to make it look new again. As someone else mentioned Stromberg liked to dip their output transformers, and some others, in tar for some reason.
Yes, test the printing on the dial glass with a moistened paper towel in a corner where it won't show, the upper left where the part number is would be a good spot. I don't know if these sets have wash away dials, I don't think so but better safe then sorry. It's been my experience that on most sets with water soluble ink or paint on the dial glass usually have the glass mounted directly to the backing plate to keep dust and crud from getting behind, and have the pointer travel in front of the glass. Then again you could sent Buzz a message and ask him about the dial glass and whether it is safe to clean, I usually use soap and water if I know that it is. The really good dials, such as many of the RCA dials, seem to have a baked on enamel similar to what old fashioned pop and beer bottles used for labels.
Regards
Arran
(This post was last modified: 08-28-2016, 04:23 AM by Arran.)
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08-28-2016, 12:02 PM
Here is a photo of one I have in my dining room, they are a neat set. Impressive to look at.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/92577012@N...ed-public/
Paul
Tubetalk1
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Wow That looks fantastic.. I hope mine will look half as good as that..
Thanks for the look at it.. Really impressive
Skip...
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