[Guest]

I'm about to start restoring the cabiniet of my 38-116. Does anyone know what the the "proper" color of the cabinet is? Can anyone recommend a product for me to use? The cabinet is in fairly good condition. The sides are near perfect with a nice clear shine but some areas on the front and top are worn through to bare wood. I was wondering if I could use a Howard Restor-A-Finish but I see you can't put a top coat of polyurethane on it. I'd like to avoid a total strip job if possible but I will do it if necessary.

Also, I'm about to order new decals from Radiodaze but noticed that above a couple of the knobs, the words (on, off,etc.) are actually etched into the wood and doesn't look like they should have decals applied but more like putting some gold paint or other substance into the wood and letter etching. It's odd how it's only above two of the five knobs, the others use decals....any thoughts on that?

Thanks,

Ed

[Guest]

Ed,

I noticed on my Philco 40-160 that the letters too are etched onto the cabinet. While I'm not crazy about using the decals, it does seem to be the best way to go, I've seen them on many other restorations on the forum here. Just remember to put the decals on BEFORE you varnish. ;)

Pretty soon I'm going to run into the color problem you are having now. I restored a Seeburg M100C jukebox a few years ago and I remember obsessing over the final color. It took me weeks to find it and by the time I did I had about a dozen cans of stain in my shop area all practically unused. After all was said and done, I just went with Tung Oil to bring out the natural look of the cherry wood veneer I used. It's beautiful, I just love it.

Good luck

Brian
Manassas, VA

[Guest]

Ed,

I noticed on my Philco 40-160 that the letters too are etched onto the cabinet. While I'm not crazy about using the decals, it does seem to be the best way to go, I've seen them on many other restorations on the forum here. Just remember to put the decals on BEFORE you varnish. ;)

Pretty soon I'm going to run into the color problem you are having now. I restored a Seeburg M100C jukebox a few years ago and I remember obsessing over the final color. It took me weeks to find it and by the time I did I had about a dozen cans of stain in my shop area all practically unused. After all was said and done, I just went with Tung Oil to bring out the natural look of the cherry wood veneer I used. It's beautiful, I just love it.

Good luck

Brian
Manassas, VA

Thanks for the advice Brian. Can you elboratre more on the Tung oil method? Did you thin it at all and if so with what and to what percentage? How long did it take to dry before you could varnish it? I've used Tung oil before and it seems to take forever to dry.

Thanks!

Ed

[jayoungs]

Hi Ed,

The finish on these cabinets is toner lacquer topped with clear lacquer and then rubbed down. If you want an original finish -- and to hold the value of the radio -- you shouldn't ever use polyurethane on them. Also, Restor-A-Finish works great if you have light scratches or flaking of the finish, but not if the finish is deeply scratched or worn through to bare wood. R-A-F actually reflows the original finish to fill in these light wear spots, but has its limits. You can't spray lacquer (or use Poly for non-radio projects) over R-A-F. It will peal off like an onion.

If you can post or send me a pic of your radio, I'll be happy to give you some specific advice. Depending on the size of the spots on the front and top, with care - you can selectively match them up and finish with the toner lacquer followed by clear -- but it takes care and patience. Or, and if substantial in size at all, I would mask off the sides and refinish the top and front. You can use the spray toner lacquer to build up and match the color, then clear lacquer everything to achieve a consistent finish. From the picture of a 38-116xx in the Gallery section here, it appears the toner lacquer color would be Medium Brown Walnut.

If you're not stripping and refinishing the entire cabinet, I would not advise spot treating with the oil. you'll never match the color or existing finish of the original sections.

Joe