Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Zenith TO Knob Bright Removal
#1

Does anybody know of a non-destructive way to remove the knob brights from Zenith TO knobs. I have a pair for an H500 that are a pretty corroded and I would like to polish them. I think polishing them would be a whole lot easier if I removed them.

My only idea, and I don't like it, is to drill a small hole through the knob from behind until I hit the bright. Then I could try pushing it off of the knob from behind.

It doesn't seem like there is any space around the edges to allow me to pry them off.

Can't think of anything witty.
Greg O.
Whitehall, PA
#2

Welcome to the Phorum!
Icon_wave

I do not think those brights come off easily.
#3

Hi Greg and welcome,
Your up there by Bob, Klondike and he seems to have an affinity for Zenith sets too. I'm down by Philly. Removing the brights from the knobs w/o damage is going to be difficult at best as they are pretty thin. A better solution may be to just rip them out and replace w/a new one. Check your local hardware store for replacement knobs with brights for various things like light dimmers and such. Most likely you'll find something a bit larger remove and cut it down to size and fit.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#4

If you are willing to risk (BTW, why?) - Try heat, see if they come off.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#5

(11-11-2016, 09:27 AM)morzh Wrote:  If you are willing to risk (BTW, why?) - Try heat, see if they come off.

The knobs melt too easily. I am surprised by this one. Most of the brass falls off of the ones I have found and often has been lost. They may not be on there all that good - but good luck.

"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/
#6

(11-11-2016, 03:37 PM)Phlogiston Wrote:  
(11-11-2016, 09:27 AM)morzh Wrote:  If you are willing to risk (BTW, why?) - Try heat, see if they come off.

The knobs melt too easily. I am surprised by this one. Most of the brass falls off of the ones I have found and often has been lost. They may not be on there all that good - but good luck.

Hi Guys
You also may find that the corrosion is bad enough that you can't make them look good anyway. If those where made now days they have some sort of gold tone plastic piece. I wonder if there is a gold tone plastic tape??

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#7

Greg, what model TO do you have?  I have two knobs from an 8G005 that are not too bad and which you would be welcome to, but I think from the description you have a model with solid brights in the center of the knob.  

[Image: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5462...005_35.jpg]
#8

Now that the chassis' done I've gotten around to the cabinet.

I haven't decided how to remove the brights yet, but I did try buffing one on the knob. Do you know that if you buff it enough brass turns to silver  Icon_eek -- oops! They're so small, I figured they'd be solid brass.

I'll either get some plating compound and fix the originals or take the coward's way out and use the spare, bright-less knobs I have with the repro brights I got from Antique Electronic Supply a while back. They don't seem to carry them any more.

Can't think of anything witty.
Greg O.
Whitehall, PA
#9

 Maybe you could try the opposite of heat with the knob brights, freeze them instead and the glue might give out.
Regards
Arran
#10

just go over top of them,,,,,GLUE ????
#11

I thought about trying to freeze them. If it was cheaper I would buy some of the wart remover spray and freeze try freezing the brights in the hope they would shrink enough to crack the glue beneath them.

The other thing I thought of was to glue something to the tops of them and try to pull them off. However I think that could end badly. I don't know what would stick and if it did how I'd get it off...

Maybe if I wait 65 more years they'll fall off on their own.

Can't think of anything witty.
Greg O.
Whitehall, PA




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
46-1213 Schematic Question
In the photo of my Chassis, I now have two wires marked "A" and "B", these are my power cord wires. ...MissouriLarry — 02:46 PM
46-1213 Schematic Question
Gary, Thanks for the reply!  I have no intention of introducing any electric to my radio until I recap it.  I just want...MissouriLarry — 02:14 PM
46-1213 Schematic Question
Hi Larry, Usually you'll want to attach the hot side of the power line cord to the power switch. That way when the s...RodB — 02:06 PM
1934 American Bosch 440T restore on YouTube
That's an interesting radio Buzz! Great first video also...Eliot Ness — 01:59 PM
46-1213 Schematic Question
Hello Larry. Replacement of the power cord is a priority, but not the first. All paper and electrolytic capacitors nee...GarySP — 01:36 PM
46-1213 Schematic Question
Ok, now is time to post my first question.  I have a Philco 46-1213 that I am going to start working on here real shortl...MissouriLarry — 12:48 PM
Another amp build - here I go again!
Well, never enough yet how much is too much? I ordered some spare parts from a couple vendors in China and now have ship...TV MAN — 10:49 AM
A Marconi model 86
This Marconi was a bit of a challenge. It was totally missing one electrolytic  capacitor, and the photos show a couple ...Dan Walker — 10:48 AM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
With regard to the speaker, unless the cone is so brittle that it crumbles as soon as you touch it I would try to repair...Arran — 04:07 AM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
That silver can capacitor is an aluminum electrolytic. You should replace it with an aluminum electrolytic with the valu...RodB — 11:46 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 364 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 363 Guest(s)
Avatar

>