[TerryMSU]

Thanks, got the bulbs. The shadow meter is semi functional. The radio works as it should. As I read the shadow meter adjustment instructions, it is not clear to me what to rotate, etc. Does anyone have any better instructions or even better yet a video?

Thanks,
TerryMSU

[KCMike]

I think it slides backward and forward... the coil that is. It doesn't rotate.

[Radioroslyn]

Your just trying to get the lamp aligned to get the best looking shadow (bright and in the center). Not too familiar w/37-38 sm there different from the older ones.
Proper operation will only be seen with a set that is in good working order and rf alignment as the avc circuit controls it. Weak tubes or short ant will give you poor results.

[TerryMSU]

Got the bulbs. Next question... the insulators for the tuner are a blob of hard plastic. Are they for mechanical isolation/cushions or for electrical insulation? Where is the best place to get them from? Anything else in general supplies that supplier is good for, since that is the only specific thing I need?

Also wondering if I can align the radio before those show up?

Thanks,
TerryMSU

[Radioroslyn]

http://www.renovatedradios.com/parts.html
Scroll down to rubber parts. Measure the size of your old one to be sure of proper replacement.

[TerryMSU]

http://www.renovatedradios.com/parts.html
Scroll down to rubber parts. Measure the size of your old one to be sure of proper replacement.

Terry,
My old one is a blob of black junk. Can't even be sure where it fits.

(Another Terry)

TerryMSU

[TerryMSU]

Found the correct one. This is not a round one, but rather rectangular and black. Part number PHS38-10. Ron verified it in a PM I sent to him.

Also fixed a bad connection that I missed when I reinstalled a Philco Bakelite block. Suddenly my shadow graph is MUCH more sensitive. Still trying to fix another microphonic connection, but slowly getting closer.

Does anyone know anything about the three connections for the antenna. I have only a long wire and ground. Which input gets the long wire? Is there a relatively simple improved antenna that I can make for this radio?

TerryMSU

[klondike98]

Some 1937 and 1938 radios had the ability to connect to the Philco All Wave Antenna that used the 3 lugs.  Some more info on it here: http://www.philcorepairbench.com/mystery/40-6112.htm

[TerryMSU]

So the shadowgrah is mostly working after I read the directions carefully. There is one issue however. This is the newer style shadowgraph. The circular washer with the split at the back (I suspect this is the magnet) is loose. It shifts around as I try to adjust the shadowgraph and even drops almost out. Can I secure this with something? Perhaps a couple drops of candle or bees wax melted on top of it?

Thanks,
TerryMSU

[TerryMSU]

So the 38-5 is largely functional on the AM band.

The only concern on the AM band is that the IF adjustments are a bit concerning. I have a fair adjustment, but the screws for item 23 (first IF can) are almost fully into the can, and the screws for item 28 (second IF can) are slightly farther out that I would have expected. This is by reference to where they started before I touched up the IF alignment.

The SW band is very flaky. Once in a while it will drop in and pass the signal along. When I even touch trimmer 5C, it may drop in for a few seconds and as soon as I bump anything it drops back out. It seems like there might be an intermittent connection. BTW, this is with a signal generator set to 17MHz and AM modulation on and coupled thru the antenna input. So what position are the switches shown on in Riders (AM or SW)? Any ideas as to how to track this down? I plan on trying to trace this using a signal path approach to see where is drops out, but I need to understand the switches before I try. Is there ANYTHING on this SW band once jet it to work with the signl generator?

Thanks,
TerryMSU

[TerryMSU]

Member

Joined: Sep Tue 27, 2016 8:55 am
Posts: 94
Location: Jackson, MI
Got it working as intended. Yes there are several stations on that band. Not exactly certain what the problem was, but likely causes were either a bad connection at the shaft of the tuner or more likely a bad connection of a tube pin to socket. For the tuner, I cleaned the ball bearing and reassembled it. Perhaps some small improvement was made, but not certain. As I was tapping around the sockets, I found one that was questionable, so I took all the sockets and squeezed the connection slightly. Now it works consistently, instead of rarely. With the exception of some minor cosmetics, the chassis is ready for the cabinet, which I am assured will ship tomorrow.

About those cosmetics, the original line cord was round and molded (and extremely brittle). Does anyone make a similar line cord? I could always put on a cloth line cord and Bakelite plug, but if I can get something more correct, why not do so.

Thanks,
TerryMSU