[klondike98]

While I'm looking for an IF coil, I started recapping.  These paper caps are Micamold brand and are a bit different than the Philco paper caps.  These have the cardboard outer layer but also have a cardboard at each end with a hole that the lead comes out of.  The end of the outer cardboard tube is then rolled down to hold the ends in place.  I thought about trying to unroll the end but felt I'd tear it up too much so i sliced off the rolled section, then with heat gun I was able to get the cardboard end off and slide the guts of the cap out.  A little cleanup with mineral spirits and I have a clean tube with two nice end sections to stuff the new cap into.  Finally a little hot glue to put the sliced off section back in place and we're in business.

Pics show the as-received view (lots of mid-air component connections in this model which I believe to be original...much different than the Philcos I've worked on),  sliced off section with original end still in cap, and the recap partially reinstalled.  The last pic is my first attempt to make one of the molded resistors that needs replacement; I need more practice!

[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/nwc7prhse5m4rv....jpg?raw=1]

[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/rrcuw1vt14c2r2....jpg?raw=1]

[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/d0zozcuy92lrg7....jpg?raw=1]

[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/afw7c89m765pkc....jpg?raw=1]

[Radioroslyn]

While I'm looking for an IF coil, I started recapping.  These paper caps are Micamold brand and are a bit different than the Philco paper caps.  These have the cardboard outer layer but also have a cardboard at each end with a hole that the lead comes out of.  The end of the outer cardboard tube is then rolled down to hold the ends in place.  I thought about trying to unroll the end but felt I'd tear it up too much so i sliced off the rolled section, then with heat gun I was able to get the cardboard end off and slide the guts of the cap out.  A little cleanup with mineral spirits and I have a clean tube with two nice end sections to stuff the new cap into.  Finally a little hot glue to put the sliced off section back in place and we're in business.

Pics show the as-received view (lots of mid-air component connections in this model which I believe to be original...much different than the Philcos I've worked on),  sliced off section with original end still in cap, and the recap partially reinstalled.  The last pic is my first attempt to make one of the molded resistors that needs replacement; I need more practice!

[Image: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5462...0AW_17.jpg]

[Image: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5462...0AW_18.jpg]

[Image: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5462...0AW_19.jpg]

[Image: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5462...0AW_20.jpg]

[Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi..._think.gif]  I have a question where was that "resistor" connected, From the plate to the cathode of the 77 tube? Looks a lot like a cap.

[klondike98]

Thanks for checking on me Terry!  I appreciate it.  I too thought they were caps originally but after tracing out the components and where they were in the circuit they had to be resistors.  

It is the 50k resistor between the two 0.1uF caps.

[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/k4xi4kkzpg1zkv....jpg?raw=1]

In the pic of the as-received chassis, you can not see it but it is behind the 100k (brn-blk-yel) molded resistor and is connected between the two caps against the chassis wall that are right next to each other.

[Kenneth F. Besso Jr.]

AND ,,you know ,,I did a emerson,,and NOT one was even close, to keep in the set,,blow way out of resistance,,

[klondike98]

Yes, these resistors are pretty far off as well.

[Arran]

 Those look similar to the RCA style paper caps of the late 1930s and early 40s, if they are then you can press the innards out using a mechanics socket on a table. You place the socket on the table, place one end of the the capacitor over the socket, then grab the body of the cap and push down, sometimes you will have to heat up the capacitor a bit first to soften the wax. This also works with those axial lead electrolytics with a cardboard sleeve over a metal can to get the sleeve off.  To reassemble you go in reverse order, capacitor, end disc, then roll the end back over.
Regards
Arran

[morzh]

Bob

I encountered these caps with rolled ends just recently in Philco 118. Very first post mentions them at tlink below.

http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread...660&page=2

[klondike98]

Thanks Arran, will give that a try.

[morzh]

I just cut the ends with Exacto.

[klondike98]

Thanks Mike.. yes, that's what I did as well.

[Phlogiston]

Grab a lead of the cap with pliers. Heat the cap with a heat gun. Grab the body of the cap with your hand (if your tough) or a rag. Pull the guts out. This will unroll the end which you can roll back with the new cap. Don't get the cap too hot - takes some practice.

[klondike98]

Thanks Russ! I will also give that a try.

[klondike98]

I was able to use the Arran/Russ technique successfully on the cap that I had not already cut.  Went pretty well.  This is the recapped and recarbed section.  Not the best repros but they will do for now.  

[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/v8xhz6q01aeclq....jpg?raw=1]

[Kenneth F. Besso Jr.]

Nice job,,practice makes better,,my mother says

[klondike98]

A bit more progress.  All the caps are now stuffed and resistors replaced.  All that's left on the underside is to replace the box containing the electrolytics.

[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4owtf41rgdn9kh....jpg?raw=1]

On the topside, the on-off/volume control was not working.  Fortunately I was able to get some of the green deoxit inside both the on/off section and the pot section and it is working again.  We'll have to see how it is after it all dries out but I think it will be OK.

[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/w1eplozrqypcm9....jpg?raw=1]

The last big job is to get the IF coil working....that's next time....