All, I just finished a Philco 610 that I plan on putting in my Radiobar. When I purchased this Radiobar it was equipped with a 36 GE radio but when I restored it it was obvious that originally it came with a 610. I'm finally getting around to converting it back to a 610. When I restore radios I try to go with an original un-restored look rather than putting obviously new components under the chassis or going with the new look. All the caps were replaced except for the molded micas. I keep the peeling paint and only clean parts that will effect performance. I just finished the chassis today and discovered a speaker problem. I hear an occasional buzzing noise and I can make that noise disappear if I push on the speaker cone. Is this something I can fix myself or do I need to send it out to be re-coned? My speaker wires also need to be replaced and I'd like to find some cloth covered wire that's correct for this radio. The colors are all faded from my speaker wires so I have no idea what colors the original wires were. Can someone tell me the correct wire colors and if anyone sells the correct replacement wire?
Here are some photos of the project.
Thanks,
Keith
(This post was last modified: 12-17-2016, 08:54 PM by keith49vj3.)
I would give it an inspection first. If possible replace it with a PM speaker (keep the field coil in and disconnect the voice coil, then connect a PM speaker) and see if the buzz is still there. If not, depending on the inspection results either fix or send out to recone.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
(12-10-2016, 10:54 PM)keith49vj3 Wrote: Bob, it looks like your 610B is also an unrestored original.
The speaker noise is definitely mechanical. When it starts buzzing I can stop it by pressing on the cone.
It was unrestored and original before I worked on it. I refinished the cabinet and stuffed the bakelite block caps and eletrolytic cans to keep the underside looking original. My speaker was in excellent condition so I did not have to mess with repairs on it.
I have had to do a recone on an 84B I worked on. If I had to guess, based on your symptoms, there could be: a) something loose in the mounting of the speaker to the cabinet, b) a loose section of the cone at the surround, c) a tear in the cone or d) the voice coil is not aligned and is hitting the sides of the speaker frame when volume gets loud or hits the right frequency. A close exam of the speaker while its operating out of the cabinet might help locate where the problem is.
Also....
Check to see if the cone edge hasn't become unglued from the steel frame. The dust cover that sits UNDER the cone could have also become unglued. Does it have an apex spider support? Check to see if that's broken. Check the flexible wires to the cone...are they spaced away from it? If you press down on the cone, do you hear a scratching noise?.....could be dirt in the air gap. (use gentle air when blowing the dirt out.) Check for warping on the cone itself....that'll throw the concentricity of the air gap out of whack. (sp?)
(This post was last modified: 12-11-2016, 10:09 AM by Jim Koehler.)
Still searching for the problem. In the meantime I was thinking of ordering some cloth covered wire from Angela Instruments wire. Wll 22GA wire work for the speaker?
Thanks,
Keith
I used 20 AGW stranded wire from radiodaze. I don't think the "small profile" version was available at the time I did mine, but that's what I'd use now if I were doing it again.
The reproduction dogbone resistors in my radio were made by an ebay vendor (Steve and Teresa). The quality was way better than the molded ones I've made in the past. Never again will I make my own resistors.
(12-11-2016, 04:20 PM)keith49vj3 Wrote: The reproduction dogbone resistors in my radio were made by an ebay vendor (Steve and Teresa). The quality was way better than the molded ones I've made in the past. Never again will I make my own resistors.
Yes, that is Phorum Member Steve Davis who makes those dogbones as well as wonderful reproduction cabinets and other parts. He does outstanding work. He shared how he makes those dogbones in an thread that can be read at this LINK. They are not molded. Of course, just knowing how to make them and making them look as good as Steve's are two different things
Well, I found a very small tear less than .25" long that I patched and almost all my buzzing is gone. I still get a bit of buzzing that seems to be volume and frequency dependent. Now I'm focusing on a volume issue, with the volume up all the way the radio plays at a comfortable level but I feel it should play much louder. It would really help tracking this down if I had resistance and voltages for all the tube pins. Did Philco ever publish this data?
Thanks,
Keith
Keith, stranded is fine for speaker/field wire, but for under chassis I prefer solid conductor wire. Stranded wire is more difficult to thread through terminals without a strand bridging. I started a 610 a couple years ago, but shelved it due to other projects (a remodel and new repair bench). My cone was completely loose from the frame as mentioned above. When I get all my test equipment done, and an amp kit finished, I am going to resume the 610 revamp.
If I could find the place called "Somewhere", I could find "Anything"
Tim
Jesus cried out and said, "Whoever believes in me , believes not in me but in him who sent me" John 12:44
My last repair seemed to work and the more I played it the less it buzzed. While replacing the wires I accidentally knocked it off my bench. If I had let it fall it would have landed on my foam rubber floor mat undamaged but thanks to my cat-like reflexes I caught it destroying the cone in the process. It's now going out the Sound Remedy for a recone.
Keith
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