[morzh]

Ron

I can't quite see, how did you attach the caps'leads to the aluminum cap's base leads? Almost loojs like you soldered them, but I know there's nothing to solder to.

[Ron Ramirez]

Mike

If I don't forget, I'll try to take a few more pictures as I gut and restuff the third electrolytic.

For now, suffice it to say that I remove the aluminum rod and positive electrode, replacing it with a heavy insulated copper wire from leftover house wiring. I solder the positive lead of the new electrolytic to one end of this wire, and then I try to salvage the connector from the original aluminum electrode, crimp and solder it to the other end of the wire (after I have run it through the bottom of the can, of course). The connector is either tinned copper or thin steel, it can be soldered.

Well, here, let's take another look at one of the electrolytics I've already rebuilt:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_043.jpg]

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_044.jpg]

Notice the wire sticking out the bottom, with white insulation? That is the new positive electrode, a piece of 12 gauge insulated house wiring. Copper. Solderable.

[morzh]

OK. It looked like the org aluminum rivet in the photo so I was curious as to what it actually was.

I used original remaining rubber plug in my single cap lytic and I use copper clad mandrel from a copper riveted Quick Connect pushon terminal for the central contact, it solders well and then the pushon itself serves as the contact. Philco and some other radios in fact used the same thing except the pushon was small.

[TV MAN]

Good job Ron, and thank you for sharing and documenting this restoration. Now, do you own this radio, or is it like a cat- it owns you?  Keep up the good work!

[Ron Ramirez]

Thanks, Tim

Now - for Mike, and anyone else interested - a more comprehensive look at restuffing an aluminum electrolytic can.

I had already decided that I would open this one up at the top, where the seam is.

Having the boric acid solution still in the can was going to complicate things.

I had read where some collectors have used a utility knife to open these cans up. Prior to tonight, I've always used a Dremel tool and cutting wheel.

Tonight, I decided to try the utility knife. Trying to keep the can vertical, I began to slowly cut with the knife using my right hand to hold the knife, while rotating the can in my left hand.

It only took three revolutions of the can before the top popped off and a little electrolyte spilled onto the floor.

I disposed of the remaining electrolyte, then rinsed the now-open can out several times with hot water.

It then looked like this:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_052.jpg]

You can see the positive electrode inside the can.

Let's look at the bottom of the can:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_053.jpg]

I will be cutting the aluminum rod just below the solder terminal, for two reasons: One, to preserve and reuse the terminal; and two, to make it easy to remove the positive electrode.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_054.jpg]

Above, you can see that I have cut off the solder terminal.

Now, using a pair of long needle-nose pliers, I reached into the can from the top, grabbed the positive electrode, and pulled it out.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_055.jpg]

I disposed of the positive electrode and, after sticking a paper towel inside and wiping it around with the aid of a long screwdriver to remove any remaining moisture, the inside of the can looked like this:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_056.jpg]

more to come...

[morzh]

I successfully used vinegar toremove any deposits. The caps come out shiny and clean.

[Ron Ramirez]

My next move was to slightly enlarge the hole in the rubber plug with a drill. (I also leave the rubber plug in place.)

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_057.jpg]

I also drill a smaller hole in the bottom of the can, near the edge, for the negative lead.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_058.jpg]

Next, I stick a piece of insulated 12 gauge copper wire through the center hole. This will be my new positive terminal.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_059.jpg]

I also run a long piece of 20 gauge wire through the small hole which will serve as the negative lead.

Now, before we forget, let's return to that solder terminal.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_060.jpg]

It's hard to describe in words, but I use a pair of diagonal cutter to carefully uncrimp the terminal from the remaining piece of aluminum rod. This has to be done very carefully, lest you ruin the solder terminal.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_061.jpg]

Now, the solder terminal is free from the old aluminum rod and may be reused with the new copper wire.

more to come...

[Ron Ramirez]

Here is the can, with new wires sticking out from both sides.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_062.jpg]

The small green wire is stripped and soldered to the negative lead of a new 22 uF, 450 volt Nichicon electrolytic. The positive lead of the new electrolytic is carefully wrapped around the stripped end of the 12 gauge wire, and soldered to it.

Notice that I use heat shrink tubing over the soldered connections. The heat shrink on the positive wire will help to keep the large wire from being able to be pulled into the rubber plug and possibly causing the new capacitor to short out.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_063.jpg]

Now, the new capacitor is in place inside the old can.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_064.jpg]

On the outside, I cut off the center wire at just the right length (about 1/2 inch), and strip about 1/4" of insulation from this large wire.

Next, I crimp the solder connector to the new copper wire, and solder it to the wire as well.

I cut off enough of the green (negative) wire to be able to connect it to a good ground point inside the RF unit. Yes, I could fasten it to the outside of the can, using the clamp to make a decent mechanical bond, but I would rather solder the wire to a ground point inside the RF unit. It won't be seen when the radio is finished, anyway.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_065.jpg]

Finally, I glue the top back onto the body:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_066.jpg]

Once the glue dries, this can will be reinstalled in the RF unit. After that, I can begin to put the RF unit back together. Now is a good time to work on the electrolytic while the antenna and RF sections are out of the way and the underside of the electrolytic is easy to get to.

[morzh]

Pretty much what I usually do with this type.
I do remove the perforated plastic from inside. No rational behind it, I just do.

[Ron Ramirez]

I used to, but I've been leaving them in lately. As you say, no particular reason one way or the other.

[Chris h]

Ron, my method is almost identical to yours, except I use a large tubing cutter instead of the exacto knife. It leaves a much nicer cut. After cutting just under the crimp, the cap will sit in place and the cut is almost undetectable.  I just glue the cap on with a few drops of super glue. It is important not to get heavy handed with the cutter. Just go slow and let the cutter do the work.

[morzh]

I also used a tube cutter, which I bought specifically for this except the cap somehow dies not necessarily rotates straight and the cut could become skewed.
Recently I started using a bandsaw we have at work. This works well though you have to be carefull for the saw not to yank the cap out of hands.

[TV MAN]

I had read where some use a cutter knife, others a Dremel tool, and some a tubing cutter. In my experience a tubing cutter wants to track off and dent the can. It does seem to work good on the type of can you are rebuilding. It wont work on the modern FP cans (the larger ones anyway). I tried a Dremel and a cutting disc on my last restuff, and had problems with the disc wanting to bounce out and make marks on the can. I wrote it off as lack of experience. I am going to try a knife next time and see what I get. May be that a specific method works best for each type of can. Trying to figure out the formula. Been doing these experiments on some test equipment, so hopefully I will 'have it down' by the time I get to my really special restorations, like my 500c Fisher !  Thanks for documenting this in such detail!

[Ron Ramirez]

Time to continue with this project...

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_067.jpg]

As you can see, the electrolytic can is back in place and I've reinstalled the RF section.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_068.jpg]

This shows the single wire is now soldered to the positive terminal of the electrolytic .

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_069.jpg]

Now, the antenna section is back in place.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_070.jpg]

Another view of the underside of the rebuilt RF unit.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/37640_071.jpg]

And a view of the topside of the RF unit.

Since I took this picture, I have also replaced the two grid wires which are soldered to the tuning condenser. I have also soldered the wires which come through from inside the RF unit back to the tuning condenser.

The RF unit is almost ready for reinstallation in the main chassis...but not quite...

[morzh]

Boy do I hate RF chassis (trying to sing it to the "I miss New Orleans" tune).
Though this one ain't too bad compared to the 37-116 which pales in comparison with the AK808.