[jcassity]

answer :
the resistor R102 magically appears as per a statement that it was "added"

progression of power supplies from oldest to newest from below pic left to right.

what i dont understand is thier far right statement, it says the power supply was changed "to" the diagram below.
If i follow instructions,, i only have two wires from the power supl xfrmr to the V8 rectifier tube???????
also on the far right they rotated the tube,, but did not lable the pins.

The middle picture  shows the rectifier tube as:
top left pin as 4
top right pin as 6
bottom left pin as 2
bottom right as 8

the far right which represents how i am to wire things up on my system,,
the dont tell me what pins are what on the rect tube.
They rotated the rect tube so by assumption i see pins 4 & 6

on the far right the little j hook they show on the rectifier tube must be pin 8 ???????

on the far right if i follow instructions,, they are saying to hook nothing up to pin 2 ????????

also on the far right above R101, is that output transformer they mention meaning my smaller "audio output" xfrmr???

if i follow instructions,, the code 122 prints show a power supl transformer with 12 conductors.
--- i have a transformer with 10 total conductors
--- if i continue to follow instructions, of my 10 conductors i would only use 9.
~~if above true this matches up perfectly to what i have in my system being restored.

[Radioroslyn]

> answer :
the resistor R102 magically appears as per a statement that it was "added"

Dissipation is about 1.47 watts so I would go with a 5watt or larger unit.

[jcassity]

well now,, i have that covered ,, thanks

[jcassity]

as for the remaining questions,,, any opinions.??

in the future i will try to be more brief... there is a lot of reading in my post.

[Radioroslyn]

Check ur pm box.

[jcassity]

humm,, looks like i forgot to jot down where my xfrmer wire #10 goes,, '
process of elimination,, LOL

[jcassity]

final layout of all caps and resistors replaced.
off the filter cap section i could not find in my thousands of resistors a 4.7ohm or a 68ohm that lead up to the volume.
I could have used parallel replacements but these checked out ok so i will roll with what i have in original form.
i replaced the caps inside the bakalite brick shown on the xfrmr primary.
next i gut and replace caps inside my secondary power supply filter caps (metal cans).  the downside is that i only have axial caps,, wishi i had radial ones,, it would work out much safer.

heres a before and after shot

[criageek]

Some really nice work jcassity!  It amazes me how similar the chassis is to my 47-1230.  I'm watching this closely    I agree with your assessment of the caps...I don't know why I ordered axial caps, but I made them work.

I'm new to restoration so I may be wrong, but I'd get rid of that wire nut!  If it's like my radio, you should be able to find an unused tab on a terminal strip to make that connection.  I did that with the connections on pin 8 of the rectifier tube...the pin was getting pretty sloppy from all the connections over the years so I just ran a jumper from there to an unused tab.

Rich

[jcassity]

agreed Craig, and ignore that wire nut, havent made it to that area yet. BTW,, i consider myself new,, this is my second resto... EVER!

I learned a lot from someone here ... someone was gutting filter caps and said dry cleaning solvent helped breakdown teh glue holding the paper wound caps so the inereds can be removed.

-lightly cut the crimped end in several places of the cap canister up to the "ring" thats just below.
-pry up on outter edge of canister
-remove the "mounting ring"
-use skinny razor knife to dig around and down in between the paper cap and the canister interior
-spray carb cleaner into the canister and let sit for a little bit
-start a long dry wall screw into the center of the paper capacitor
-pull on the dry wall screw to pop out the innerds of the capacitor.
-replace everything.

here are some shots of how i took care of my C101 cap canister.  On C101 here i thought i better use fish paper to protect it better above and beyond my applied heat shrink.

I sorta screwed up C102 ,, it was my "learnin" cap.

[jcassity]

i screwed the pooch on this one,, my other fliter cap (C102)but i guess i'll live. ignore my hand written reference, i was having trouble with what my code 121 and code 122 prints were trying to convey as to which filter cap was which. in both the code 121 and 122 illustrations (not schematics) they had C101 and 102 labled opposite... brain freeze inducing torment!!!!

will have to fab up a mount since i cut through the mounting ring lacking experience to even know it was there.

after a long while it finally occured to me that this particular filter cap is actually my C102...

[criageek]

"agreed Craig, and ignore that wire nut, havent made it to that area yet. BTW,, i consider myself new,, this is my second resto... EVER!"

Just to clarify, my name is Rich.  My id is criageek, as in Cedar Rapids IA Geek  

Rich

[jcassity]

here is how i finally solved the mounting of the filter C102.
i fab'd up some mounting ears so now the bakalite plate is the point the mounts press down on to keep the canister rigid.

since i cut slots all the way around, i just broke off two of opposite sides and drilled the chassis then added the clips.

this should be fine.

[jcassity]

Rich,
when you can, look on the top side of your chassis,

on mine on the section that holds the tuner there is on top a round looking antenna / inductor / wire wound inductor looking thingy,, my code 121 calls it T1.

one of my wires is on this short little doo dad is hanging doing nothing. its tinned like it was soldered somewhere so i assume it broke off during my handling. can you put up a couple pics of yours.?

[jcassity]

dang it,, now looking at my pics,, my skinny tall filter cap (C101) rework did, i think my smaller 10uf cap is soldered wrong...

the + of the small cap needs swung over to the + lead of the 25uf... at least i caught it now.

gives me the opportunity to omit the rivits,, instead id rather have self tap mounting screws there as well for future access.

[criageek]

>Q- to the left is code 122 prints and at no point is the on off switch tied to my rectifier tube.
In the real world, i have what is hand sketched to the right.
I did some reading and saw people talking about how to bypass the primary of the power xfrmr when it craps out.
Does it appear this mod was done here?

No.
The pins that the white wires are connected to are not connected to the tube internally.

>Q- The code 122 prints indicate i should have a dozen conductors on my transformer Pri&Sec  combined.  I only have 10 conductors total.
There is one single conductor that is spared back with tape on it and its been like that prior to me touching.

Methinks your power transformer has been replaced w/a generic replacement. Note the black crud by the output tubes socket. Looks like tar from the old pt.

>Q- Is there any way for me to identify other than resistance values what conductors on my xfrmr are?
The prints indicate a color code the secondary's but all i can see is a bunch of brownish cloth covered wires.
I can "almost" see a hint of color in a couple but feel like its my brain eye coordination wanting to see it.

You can tell by what they are connected to. The resistance measurements don't tell you a lot anyway. With a non original pt it will differ from the philco diagram. Your "new" pt may only have one 6.3v winding rather than the two like the original.

Rich,
when you can, look on the top side of your chassis,

on mine on the section that holds the tuner there is on top a round looking antenna / inductor / wire wound inductor looking thingy,, my code 121 calls it T1.

one of my wires is on this short little doo dad is hanging doing nothing.  its tinned like it was soldered somewhere so i assume it broke off during my handling.  can you put up a couple pics of yours.?

Sure...can you show me a pic of the general area so I know what you're looking for?  I have a ton of pics (355 and counting  lol) but can take more if I don't have what you need.  Here is a pic of the top of the turner sub-chassis, but it doesn't have anything like what you're looking for.

   

I don't know why, but every time I try to reply to one of your posts I get the quote of the post from Radioroslyn.

Rich