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Rich, I see that 0% warn level on everyones profile not just yours but as a moderator I sometimes see different info than you would. You can likely see your own level ( 0% is good.... ) but not others. Ron may know more. You are in good shape.
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City: Cedar Rapids Iowa
Ok...thanks. I wondered if that was the case.
Rich
Posts: 182
Threads: 5
Joined: Feb 2017
City: Cedar Rapids Iowa
The phono impedance matching transformer is back together. Here I've soldered the 2 ground leads into the ground pin, and the center conductor of the RCA connector.
And here it is with all wires soldered and the rivets re-inserted
I'm concerned about how strong my glue job will be for the RCA connector. I used a liberal amount of JB Weld so hopefully it will hold. Fortunately, this should very seldom have to be disconnected and connected once it's in the cabinet.
Rich
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City: Cedar Rapids Iowa
I decided to take the phonograph out this morning. Obviously it needs a whole bunch of cleaning. I think I'll take it out to the garage and blow it off with some compressed air, then very carefully wipe it with a generous amount of soapy water and a microfiber cloth and see how it looks. I ordered Chuck's documentation for this radio the other day and should have that by the end of the week. I'm hoping it has some servicing info for the phono.
Rich
Posts: 182
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Joined: Feb 2017
City: Cedar Rapids Iowa
I cleaned the top of the phonograph this morning. While it made a huge difference, the surface isn't in very good shape. These pictures make it look a lot better than it is in reality. That being said, I'd call it 'acceptable', but I'm considering painting it. Any recommendations? Does anyone know the correct color?
Also, what is the best way to clean the platter? Again, the picture makes it look a lot better than it does in the real world.
Thanks,
Rich
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(04-14-2017, 01:07 PM)criageek Wrote: Why am I the only one that has a "Warning Level: 0%"??
As Bob said, 0% is good. It means you have never received a warning from a mod or admin, or that you received one but it has expired. In your case, you've never received one, so no worries
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 1,523
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City: West Bend, Wisconsin
Here are a couple of threads from when I restored my 47-1230. This is what I used on the phono for paint:
http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=5230
And this is what I used to reflock the turntable:
http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=5231
Greg V.
West Bend, WI
Member WARCI.org
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City: Cedar Rapids Iowa
Thanks Greg...that helps alot! I assume you masked off the Auto/Manual switch, right? I don't know how I'd get new matching rivets in there if I drilled them out.
Rich
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City: West Bend, Wisconsin
Yes I masked it off along with the "PHILCO" emblem on the top of the tone arm.
Greg V.
West Bend, WI
Member WARCI.org
Posts: 1,523
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City: West Bend, Wisconsin
Actually I would try some Turtle Wax (or whatever brand wax you use on your vehicle) on the metal base first. It doesn't look all that bad and may shine up nicely. Mine had rust spots and missing paint so I was forced to repaint.
Greg V.
West Bend, WI
Member WARCI.org
Posts: 182
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Joined: Feb 2017
City: Cedar Rapids Iowa
Mine does have this bad spot
There are also a bunch of small "pits" where the paint is gone. It's hard to get a good picture of them. From more than a couple of feet away it looks fine, but up close not so much. I'll try some wax in a small area and see what it looks like.
Rich
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Joined: Feb 2017
City: Cedar Rapids Iowa
I didn't get any responses to my question about using safety caps for the line filter caps, but since I had to order a few caps anyway I went ahead and ordered some and put them in this morning.
Now I'm in process of checking the connections on every tube pin and every terminal on the tab strips to make sure everything is wired correctly. I should be able to finish that tomorrow, so I may be able to do my first testing late tomorrow or Wednesday.
Hey Greg - Do you know how much current your 47-1230 draws? Did you put a fuse in it? If so, what size?
Rich
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City: Jackson, NJ
Rich
I do not remember what the question was about the caps but 10-15nF Y-type caps are the one to use from L/N to Chassis.
Your arrangement in the block seems fine.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
Posts: 182
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Joined: Feb 2017
City: Cedar Rapids Iowa
Thanks morzh - I had installed the same type of 0.01uF caps I used in the rest of the radio because the part number called out in the Sam's documentation matched. But after seeing many recommendations for using safety caps for the line filtering I wondered if I should replace them. I got some 0.01uF, 250v Y2 film safety caps from JustRadios and put them in.
Rich
Posts: 15,811
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City: Jackson, NJ
Yes those Y2 are good.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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