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OK boys and girls, I'm about 3/4 of the way thru this chassis and I need some help. The dial cord was missing from this when I got it and looking at it I have no idea how its suppose to go. Who has a diagram of the layout?
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People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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That does help, thank you. Now I'm just waiting for my top rubber cushions for the tuning capacitor and I should be good to go.
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Heres another question, anyone know what the collapsed length of the spring is? I have a box full of springs here but I'd like to avoid the experimentation portion of restringing this.
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Well, the springs I have don't have the strength needed. I found a supplier on ebay and ordered some. Hope they will work.
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I picked up some springs off of ebay that are stronger than the ones I originally had but I'm still not able to get the tuning cap to move. Doesn't matter how tight I tension the dial cord the tuning shaft just spins when turning it without moving the cap. Maybe I'm using too thin of cord? Any one else run across this before?
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City: Roslyn Pa
Maybe a little bow rosin (instrument) might be a good thing.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
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The cord needs to be thick. Very thick. I don't have my micrometer handy but the cord used in Models 15, 19, 89, 77, 96, 111, 112, etc. is very thick, at least double the diameter of a paper clip.
Actually, I think all of the pre-1939 Philcos that use dial cord use the very thick cord. This also includes models 71, 91, 14, 18, 118, etc.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
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City: Sandwick, BC, CA
It probably also needs another turn or two of cord wrapped around the tuning control shaft.
Regards
Arran
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Thanks for the replies. Not sure what to use then or where to purchase same. Arran, there is no room on the pulley for a second wrap, it would just get twisted on itself.
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how about joann fabrics
they have different types of yarn and knitting stuff
sam
Some day, and that day may never come, I will call upon you to do a service for me. But until that day, accept this justice as a gift
mafiamen2
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I just ordered some .062 diameter dial cord from Adams Manufacturing. I'm hoping that this will work since its twice the thickness.
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I got the thicker cord and tried it out. It is very hard to turn the cap from the fully closed position with alot of slipping but much easier to turn it towards the fully closed position. I think this is being caused by a lack of proper lube on the bearings. I was using some Philips grease that was designed for gears and bearings but I think its just abit too thick.
Tomorrow I am going to pick up some Tri Flo and some Monkey Lube and see how those work.
(This post was last modified: 08-18-2017, 04:25 PM by Jim Dutridge.)
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Take my advise, go spend $6 for a 2 oz. bottle of Tri-Flow. This stuff works great for tuning cap bearings and just about anything else that requires lubrication, short of phonographs that is.
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If your dial cord still slips, melt some violin rosin in acetone and then spread the mixture over your dial cord. The acetone will evaporate quickly, leaving the rosin deposits which will help your dial cord to grip better. I suggest you do this outdoors with plenty of ventilation as acetone fumes are not exactly good for your health.
Bill Turner used to sell this mixture and it works great.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
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