Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12, 2025) x

Thread Closed

Power transformer testing
#1

Hello -

Recently acquired a 46-1226 parts chassis, thinking that I could harvest a few components for other radio projects.

Completely removed the power transformer from the chassis and began checking each set of windings for continuity, using the ohms function of my multimeter. Found the high-voltage secondary winding (I think, yellow wire to yellow wire) to be open, no continuity. All other windings tested good for continuity.

My question: Is there a need to test further, such as apply voltage to the primary and measure what I get at the high-voltage secondary winding or is the ohm/continuity check a pretty good indicator that the transformer is worthless?
#2

Continuity is a good test, that is if there is no continuity (provided you have your leads right) - the winding is bad.
I would stop right there.
PS. Make sure you do have your leads correct AND they are not oxidized etc so the meter did in fact have good connection when the continuity was being measured.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#3

Check to see if you have any resistance from either of the yellow wire to the green wire. It's the center point between the yellow wires.

A couple of things to look for on a pt are: Do you see a blob wax in the cabinet under the pt? Does it smell like it was on fire (burnt smell). These are signs overheating which can cause a transformer fail.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got it!

Terry
#4

Thanks for the input gents.

Regarding Terry's comments, I am able to measure resistance from the green wire (center tap) to each yellow wire. I get 90 ohms on one and 97 on the other, which is fairly close to what is shown on the schematic. No surprise, I get 187 ohms yellow to yellow. However, no continuity from yellow to yellow, or green (center tap) to either yellow.

I can't check the cabinet for a blob of wax, since this was a chassis-only acquisition. I did take the covers off of the transformer just to peak at the wires to see if anything obvious stood out. Nada. Nor did it appear like any waxy substance or anything for that matter dripped out. It doesn't have that acrid, sulfur-like, nasty burned-electronics smell that is hard to forget. Just that warm, nostalgic, old-tube-equipment smell from the vaporized dust, oils, maybe even the varnish from the core plates? "Eau de old electronics" if you will.
#5

Mark

What do you mean by continuity? You need finite resistance which you have. or do you want a short ciruit?
You probably have a good transformer.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#6

What I meant by "continuity" is just the simple go/no-go feature of my multimeter. With the selector knob in the ohms measurement position, I have the option of two "modes" with a selector button. One mode displays the actual measured resistance in ohms on the meter readout, the other mode simply displays "open" or "shrt" on the readout, with a short-circuit indication accompanied by an audible beep tone.

Is this a bad evaluation technique? Should I stick solely to the ohms readout mode or should I apply voltage to the transformer (variac) and measure the output voltage, which was my original question.
#7

You do not use Go-No go with anything other than wires.

Transformer has a finite resistance that could be from units of Ohms to a kilo-Ohm or so. The primaries are usually within tens or hundreds of ohms on output xfmrs, the output is almost a short; in power transformers input is tens of ohms, outputs - could be hundreds. But in any case, you need to see the resistance, not continuity. If it is within the range shown in the sch - this is what you need.

Meantime I would recommend you familiarize yourself with the basics of the components: what is what, how to measure it and what physical meaning it has.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco P45-6365 Universal Transformer Instruction Manual
Can anyone guide me to where this may be found?GRG — 03:00 PM
54C Complete Teardown/Rebuild
I don't think that I have encountered a 12Z3 before, curious how it uses one of those but includes a #43, which is a 25 ...Arran — 02:17 PM
HiFi (Chifi) tube amp build - but my own design.
It's the other forum. I'm also in DIY, but mostly read there. Honestly, I kinda jumped into this without much thought to...TV MAN — 10:43 AM
Philco 71 Code 125
Hello,  I am in need of a schematic for this radio. Mine has the three separate circular tube shields and a shadow me...dconant — 08:06 AM
Stromberg Carlson 1500 Squeal
And life just keeps getting more complicated.dconant — 07:57 AM
54C Complete Teardown/Rebuild
Hello Roy, here is this one sincerely Richardradiorich — 12:45 AM
54C Complete Teardown/Rebuild
Richard, Had grabbed it already but thank you just the same.  I find myself wanting to find some way to block out the...glyphmon — 12:03 AM
54C Complete Teardown/Rebuild
Hello roy, here is a link to the schematic . Sincerely Richardradiorich — 11:54 PM
54C Complete Teardown/Rebuild
Richard, The Silvertone 2014 also is a transformerless set, so I am incorporating a 1:1 600 ohm audio isolation transfo...glyphmon — 11:37 PM
Preliminary work on wife's Silvertone 2014
Did an alignment today which was interesting.  IF alignment went great, almost all was already spot-on.  Adjusting on th...glyphmon — 11:35 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 1899 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 1897 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>