Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco 37-3640 / 37-640 questions
#1
Lightbulb 

My first commitment on this forum. Up to now, I was just reading and learning. Great community.

I just bought a couple antique radios from my brother-in-law. The radio that I am currently working on is a Philco 37-3640. Don’t look for it. It is a Canadian model. 

The receiver  is made in Toronto and is in fact a 37-640, well documented on yout site. I have  the original schematic of the 37-3640 and all available information for the 37-640.

The cabinet is made by Victoriaville Furniture, Victoriaville, Quebec, Canada.  No picture on the net exactly matches this cabinet so, I will share some whem I will found how to do it  ;-)
[Image: https://1drv.ms/i/s!AqDzjKUOhlam2wbYZMxTyBMexU8W]
I did some basic work (cleaning, visual check, short circuit check and replacing the power supply caps) and I can confirm that the radio is functional. Reception looks quite good. I now working an overall check starting with the power supply section. This is the reason of my questions here.
  1. There is a 2ohm resistor that shunt the 25 ohm part of the resistor in location 68 (may be a previous repair). This lower the bias voltage from -3.3V to -0.25 Volt. The change adds a lot of sensitivity to the receiver.  If I disconnect it, reception is quite bad.
    Have you seen this change before?
  2. On capacitor in location 66A, I read -22 Volts referred to ground/casing.
    Is it the correct voltage polarity?  In that case, the schematic shows the wrong polarity for the condenser and I need to swap my condenser.
Thanks in advance for your help.

   

Edit: Image added by admin
#2

Welcome to the Phorum!
Icon_wave

Nice looking set!
For those who might be able to answer your questions...here's the link to the 37-640 schematic.
#3

Thanks to the moderator to have added my picture.
See the schematic of the 37-3640 below. A re-organized version of the 37-640.
   

And a few more pictures of the receiver.
Cabinet plates
   
   

Receiver
   
   
#4

Hi and welcome,
>Is it the correct voltage polarity?
In this situation the + side is connected to the chassis and the - goes to the center tap of the HV winding on the power transformer.
I'll mention if you have an electrolytic capacitor that has been connected backwards do not reuse it, chuck it it's shorted.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#5

I am closing this projet for now. Below is what I did, for reference. Hoping can that help someone - also valid for a 37-640 I guess. 
I did minimal restore and checks 1) was my first introduction in radio restauration 2) I don't want to risk breaking something as fragile as the dial disk 4) the design and assembly of this radio is quite complex 3) replacing all caps and resistors would let's me feel that is no more the same old radio...  
Finally, the radio works and perform quite good as is. Not a lot of humm, and I get a lot more radio stations than before. Will see in the future. I have a RCA M46 and M46A to practice - simplet in their design and assembly. 
Will rather improve the antenna for now.

   
#6

You may want to consider replacing #61,44,52,60,64,20, and 14. These are in the HV path and if leaky can cause excessive HV current. 41 and 43 are a good idea they can effect the tonal quality or cause noise.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#7

Thanks a lot for your suggestions. Most seem quite easy to replace. I will certainly work this when I will do another restoration pass.




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
An attempt to remove the Field Coil from a G speaker
So, Q1. Does anyone know where to get the spider. Q2. If there is no such place, what material is best? I doubt tin is...morzh — 09:43 PM
An attempt to remove the Field Coil from a G speaker
Arran The oxidation seems to go deep, a few layers. The break starts right there, but then it will occur on every la...morzh — 07:35 PM
An attempt to remove the Field Coil from a G speaker
Mike, This is just a thought, the are on the coil where the verdigris (green oxidation is) I wonder if that is where ...Arran — 06:32 PM
An attempt to remove the Field Coil from a G speaker
Mike; I've made a one or two spiders by using some card stock, and a razor blade, it took more then one try but they ...Arran — 05:48 PM
Philco 91 Restore Code ??
I wondered about that. Wish there was some place local to get this stuff.dconant — 04:20 PM
Philco 89 indicator light.
Bending the lamp bracket (moving the lamp, that is) can possibly change the shape of the pointer a bit, but not its loca...morzh — 04:01 PM
Philco 91 Restore Code ??
Because the usable power rating of it then is (3,200/20,000)*25W= 4W. Maybe a tad more due to the mass, but not much. Yo...morzh — 03:59 PM
Philco 89 indicator light.
Thank you Dan, that was the trick. I kept trying to rebend the lamp bracket but that wasn't doing anything to help.Jim Dutridge — 02:18 PM
Philco 91 Restore Code ??
20K 25 watt. I thought it was a 20 watt at first.dconant — 01:37 PM
My Philco 37-116 Restore
Nah, too much and not that important.morzh — 01:33 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 4646 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 4644 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>