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Philco 41-608
#1

I was given this radio before is was condemned to a fire pit. She's in very poor condition. All the information on this site is a bit much. Where am I even to begin? Needs a new power cord, but I believe I'm far from worried about putting power to this ancient girl.

It does not operate, everything is dusty and broken. With so much information here and no idea where to be directed to I'm at a loss. I am an automotive mechanic so schematics are not new to me. However a 12v system is not something I want to just dive into. So, what is everyone's recommendations?
#2

Welcome!

I merged your posts (they didn't appear right away because your first two posts require approval).
#3

My first suggestion is to post some photos of your radio! Icon_smile If you can, take some pics of the insides/chassis, too.

The first thing I do in this case is to pull the chassis out and look everything over carefully. Make note of any obvious missing parts, blown tubes, fried resistors, crumbling wire housings, loose connections, etc. You have the phono in yours, do you want to get that working again too? Do you have a tube tester? You'll need to check those tubes, somehow.

The below is what I could find for technical literature
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel...013432.pdf
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel...013433.pdf

If you don't already have them, you can try ordering a large set of schematics from Philco Repair Bench
http://www.philcorepairbench.com/schematics/

Personally, I would start with the simple stuff, like replacing all of the old capacitors and resistors one by one with correct value modern stuff. You know those will need to be done. As you go along, make note of bad connections or bad wires and replace as needed. Once you have the radio in functioning condition, move on to the phono. If you find you need to remove more than one part at a time, use some colored masking tape to mark your connections and any electrolytic cap polarity. Go slow and take lots of closeup photos in case you forget where things go.

Greg

"We are here to laugh at the odds and live our lives so well that Death will tremble to take us."
#4

Hi CR and welcome,
I'm just finishing up a 41-608 for a member here. If it is of any help to you I can take some high res photos of the chassis that has been serviced. Unforunitly on the Phorum I can't send large files though the message system but you can PM me w/your email address I'd be happy to send them along to you.
Here's the posts from that service I did:  http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=17206
The owner Sam had replaced all of the paper and electrolytic caps but couldn't get it to work properly. True be told I couldn't get it to work 100% but it's much better than it was.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#5

Welcome to the Phorum!
Icon_wave

Yes there is a lot of info on this site and it can be very helpful but the first thing to let us know is how familiar are you with electronics, voltage, current, measurements etc. If all of that sounds new to you then you need to do some reading and learning before getting into the restoration. Lots of threads in the Tech section but a very good very first read can be found on Phil Nelson's site.
#6

Year 41 radios are very similar underneath the chassis. I have just finished a 41-280.
Mostly loctal tubes and rubber-insulated wiring.
I got lucky, my wiring did not need change, still very pliable abd not at all crumbling. If you are this lucky, your job will be 25% of what you otherwise will have to go through, which is full rewiring plus the rest.

What others said, ditto that.
Almost all lictal tubes willhave oxydized pins, a blackish film forms over and precludes contact, so before testing the tubes, scrape the pins well with an exacto blade or do something else to remove the oxydation.

See if the wires inside are good. If you see cracking or crumbs, have to rewire. Deoxit the switches.
Clean the chassis, just Windex or alcohol is sufficient. If the tuning cap grommets are still soft (mine were) - just blow the cap with a canned air and ribse with any electronic cleaner, like Blue Shower. If not, will have to replace grommets.

Start somewhere. It'll sructure itself out somehow, abd we will be helping by answering questions.

Welcome!

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#7

41-608 https://imgur.com/gallery/GA6m3

Here's my gallery! Today I'll be cleaning the chassis from dust and dirt. I do not have anything to wash the frame with. As you see it is splattered with paint as well.
#8

Well, "rough shape" is a bit of an understatement.
It is a BOL too! Nice.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#9

(09-17-2017, 05:22 PM)morzh Wrote:  It is a BOL too!

BOL?
#10

Record player (beam of light).

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#11

well kind of dirty to tell
would not use water to clean   000 steel wool and mineral spirits  or gojo with out pumice
cabinet may need to be refinished
dust on turn table may have protected it
these are not easy things to work on . most are show only or changed out to record player with carts 
here`s mine in gallery
http://philcoradio.com/gallery2/1941a/#Model_41-608P


sam

Some day, and that day may never come, I will call upon you to do a service for me. But until that day, accept this justice as a gift
mafiamen2




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