[Radioroslyn]

The technical name for it is 37-116 code 121. The 122 is the model w/the preset on the dial. Both are great sets, next to the top of the line in '37. Was Philco's third departure in to  HiFi AM reception. Others are the 200/201X and 680. The 1936 116X is a great sounding set but to truly be it the HiFi class it needs to have the IF expander (variable selectivity) which it doesn't. If you feel a little intimidated about doing the service work on it I would go ahead and get it as they don't turn up very often and when you have a little practice under your belt give it a go. Think of the pluses no rubber wire! I find that the rf sub chassis is pretty dense with parts the rest isn't so bad.

So how do you eat an elephant?? A bit at a time. Breaking the schematic and then the chassis in to stages makes doing this bigger than most set degestable.

As Mike mentioned about the spkr be sure that it bolted down before moving the radio and be careful when removing it  as there is a wooden defuser cone (part of the cabinet) that can damage the spkr cone.

I drove from Philly up to Boston to get my 121 (abt 4hrs ea way)

[Ron Ramirez]

As others have said, I would not let a 3 hour trip dissuade me from getting a 37-116X Standard (Code 121) for the low, low Kmart price of $62.50. What a bargain! The Standard version (without automatic tuning) does not turn up very often. Get it while you can! Worry about fixing it later.

[dal61]

So, I am expecting more pictures after lunch today.  The radio belonged to the seller's parents.  What, if any, specific questions should I ask? She does say she thought it played.  What would be a typical price for a decent example of a 37-116x?  I probably don't appreciate this opportunity like most of you do.  My passion seems more directed at learning how to work on these things...I keep thinking of the 400 miles, $50 in gas and 6 hours of my day.  I could (and would ) pay a lot more for this same radio if it was only 50 miles away....but you all have me considering making the trip.   I do appreciate you sharing your thoughts.

[Ron Ramirez]

> What would be a typical price for a decent example of a 37-116x?

They typically sell for $150-300 if in good shape. Now you understand why we all want you to jump all over a $62.50 radio.

[dal61]

>Now you understand why we all want you to jump all over a $62.50 radio?

Here's a novel idea....why don't I get both of them?  For under $100 I could have a starter set...AND the big boy to keep in storage for a while?    I bet I can talk my wife into making the 3 hr trip with me...if a little shopping and dinner are involved.

Is there anything, specific, I should ask about....or be aware of, before agreeing to the 37-116x?  As soon as I get mor pictures, I'll share some.  Thanks for your thoughts and encouragement....

[morzh]

Problem is, the seller might not, her likely being a non-tech-savvy person, have any good answers for you.
(she would know if the radio was in a wet basement or flooded, but then this should be pretty clear from photos).

When hauling the 37-116 keep in mind: the chassis is held by ONE SINGLE 4-40 or 6- 32 screw. Yes, you heard me right.
So, take the chassis out of it. And as long as you are at it, the other radio also might use the chassis out while being transported.

[Radioroslyn]

>So, take the chassis out of it.

A little tip bring some masking tape to mark the spkr wires. The later 37-116X's have a plug for the spkr. The early ones have 4 separate wires w/ a pin solder to the end that slips into 4 separate little connections. This will make it easier to reassembly when the time comes.

The screw that Mike is referring to is at the very back of the chassis in the center. It comes up though the cabinet and screws in to the chassis.

[dal61]

So I heard from the seller  Here are some of the pics she sent. The other side looks abut like the one shown here....maybe better.

[morzh]

I say it looks fine.

There is something on the speaker's cone on the right close to the frame but might be nothing or a small tear that is easy to repair. Chassis does not look bad.
The cabinet could use a re-finish but is solid and damage to veneer is small (on the top).

I am still in favor of getting it.

[dal61]

Well, when I heard from the seller of the '116, she said a local was interested and had made arrangements to look at it Thursday ......so we will see what happens.  I told her I'd like to be considered 'next in line'.   She was going to let me know.  I also checked on the 37-630, and it's still available.   About everything about that '116 intimidates me...refinishing the cabinet and rebuilding the chassis.  If I get it, I might be an old man before I have the confidence to take it on.

[Arran]

The 37-116 seems to have one of the acoustical resonators missing, there should be a third one mounted below the speaker, they can be found and are not necessary to make the set play. Overall it does not look too bad, one problem those cabinets sometimes have is the veneer splitting across the grain along the top leading edge, if really bad the side front corners will be split too, this doesn't seem to have that, just the one obvious veneer chip and flaking lacquer. Even if you were not ready to work on it now you could always put it in dry dock for the future, if you decide later that you don't want it a trade for something else is always a possibility.
Regards
Arran

[dal61]

For any of you that may be interested, I have tentatively made arrangements to go get the 37-116 this Sunday.  I heard from seller today and the interested local called and canceled.    If I remove the chassis for transport (thanks for the tip!) can I lay the radio on it's back (in a van)?...or should I stand it up to haul it home?...

I think I am going to pass on the 37-630 for now...... 

Thanks to all of you for the encouragement.

[Ron Ramirez]

Remove the chassis, then do one of two things:

1. Be absolutely sure the speaker is bolted in place with the two round head bolts and nuts (one on either side of the field coil frame); or
2. Remove the speaker and place it in a large box or tote, face down.

Then you may absolutely lay the cabinet on its back in the van, preferably on top of a thick blanket or comforter.

Don't drag the cabinet across the blanket, comforter or carpet - this increases the chance of damaging the veneer on the back edges. If you use a blanket or comforter, just grab the edge of the blanket or comforter to pull the cabinet out of your van.

Congratulations!

[SteveG]

Good reminders, Ron. No telling how many cabinets have lost edge veneer due to the sliding out of the delivery vehicle. On top of that most beginners would just throw those edge slivers into the trash, when they can be glued back on again.....

The '36 & '37-116's are some of my favorite Philco consoles. Had a beautiful 38-116 years ago and let it go by mistake. Now I would prefer the '36 & '37's.

[Radioroslyn]

Me Too! I don't really care for the slope front '38 model, 36 and 37 rule!!