11-07-2017, 10:16 PM
Yes I think that would be best.
Don't need that much so I hope I can fine something at HW store.
Don't need that much so I hope I can fine something at HW store.
40-216 restoration questions
11-07-2017, 10:16 PM
Yes I think that would be best.
Don't need that much so I hope I can fine something at HW store.
11-08-2017, 08:45 PM
Best I can do with wire "on hand" for 18 AWG is wire out of a PC power cable.
Those are only rated at 300v though. Would that work? Never had to deal w/ the transformer before
11-08-2017, 08:54 PM
Your probably ok as long as you keep the ends of the HV winding spaced apart a bit. Black for the pri, Green for 6.3v heater, Yellow for the 5v filament, and Red for the hv and red/yellow for the hv center tap.
When my pals were reading comic books I was down in the basement in my dad's workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to figure out what all those squiggly meant. Circa 1966 Now I think I've got! Terry
11-08-2017, 09:30 PM
Not sure how well I can keep things away from each other.
Here is what it's like now. [Image: https://i.imgur.com/DrwAVJc.jpg]
11-08-2017, 10:33 PM
Looks like I can get some short runs of 18awg 600v from China via ebay.
I'll probably go that route since I don't have any. More waiting
11-17-2017, 09:14 PM
I ordered some 750k 1/2 watt resistors to replace part 105.
They looked fine until I took them out of packaging and noticed the leads seam of smaller gauge then my normal Radio Shack type. Should I be worried the lead may not be strong enough?
11-18-2017, 12:12 PM
Just found the specs, rated at 350v.
What is expected voltage where this part is located?
11-18-2017, 12:38 PM
22 AWG is plenty for EVERY SINGLE wire inside the radio, with a possible exception of filament winding bus wire if carrying currents in exess of 5A, which is only a case in a very few radios.
350V rating is fine too as the stabilized voltage at its highest point except right after rectifier rarely exceeds 300V. The output of the transformer high voltage has its own wires, if have to replace them due to cracked insulation, use 600V wires though 350V is fine too as 600 or so volts output is the end to end and then you have double insulation as there are two wires, and towards the chassis it is half that. People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
11-27-2017, 11:58 PM
I know how I am going to tackle rewiring the power transformer so that I get everything connected back to where it came from but is that necessary?
Yes paired wires will go back to the same tabs but if some of the secondaries are backwards, opposite tabs from before, is there some sort of phase difference and things go bad?
11-28-2017, 12:33 AM
Likely not but why try to find out?
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
11-28-2017, 12:54 AM
Exactly. I'll be making sure they get back to where they came from ;)
12-21-2017, 04:17 PM
Safest way to get cylindrical IF cans apart?
They have that flat type nut with 4 slots on it.
12-21-2017, 04:57 PM
Pic of top and bottom??
When my pals were reading comic books I was down in the basement in my dad's workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to figure out what all those squiggly meant. Circa 1966 Now I think I've got! Terry
12-21-2017, 05:04 PM
12-21-2017, 05:56 PM
If this requires screwing the slugs in all the way I may just pass on the rewire of these.
To much to risk and to throw this thing way out of alignment would suck. The wires are showing signs of cracking but still pretty rubbery. Maybe just make them more stationary with a tab of liquid tape to secure wires to chassis where needed.
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