[rkeller]

There was a Philco 42-380 listed on our local craigslist. The owner wanted $100. The cabinet was peeling and the radio would only play that 60hz tune.... The unit did not sell and after the listing expired I called back to see if he was still interested in selling. He said if I made it over before he went to the dump it was mine. Which I did and it is. I would like to do a complete restoration and add a feature that I think would make it more appreciated. I would like to add an input that could accept an ipod type mini connector so we could get old time radio programs to play through the unit. I noticed a triangle of three plug in holes in the back, doe's anyone know what these are for?
If anyone has a legible schematic it would really help. I went to Nostalgia-air and was able to download one but it's so fuzzy you can't read any values. I'll post pics as it gets completed.
Thanks for this great website.
Russ in Wake Forest
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[dberman51]

That 3-pin connector is for a small accessory module that allows you to connect an external antenna. It includes a local/distance switch.

-David

[DeckApe]

Russ, Chuck Schwark here on the Phorum has a schematic service. He should have the info on your set and his prices are VERY reasonable. When I ordered he also included my schematic on an 11 x 17 page--much nicer to look at.

[rkeller]

Thanks for the schematic heads up. Got it, and now digging in.
Plugged the chassis into the variable isolation transformer and slowly brought the voltage up to 115.
Sure enough there is the 60 hz ripple on the 195V line, and the base of the 6X5G is cracked as well.
I have ordered a new tube, a 6X5G(T) which should be a direct replacement for $4.00; instead of $16.00 for a used 6X5G. So far I have changed out the capacitors in the bakelite line filter condenser pack with new X/Y safety caps hidden inside. I used a heat gun to melt out the tar that originally filled the innards of the pack, unsoldered the old caps and soldered in the new ones. I'll be replacing the electrolytics and recapping the rest of the unit when the tube and caps arrive. I have also played with cleaning the chassis with Naval Jelly to dissolve some of the surface oxidation. It seems to be working well. I did have to rinse it after with electronic cleaner degreaser because I was concerned that if any got on, or in a tube socket it would cause corrosion.
Question to the knowing: Has anyone used the 6X5GT to replace a 6X5G and is it OK to do so?
Thanks again

[codefox1]

You'll be fine with the 6X5A. Don't toss the old one, though. As long as the tube isn't arcing, or weak, just put a drop or two of crazy glue into the crack and squeeze it shut with a couple of rubber bands. Leave the rubber bands on for a few hours, and you're fixed the problem, and now have a spare.

[rkeller]

Parts came in today from ESRC1. Replaced the electrolytics (2) 8mf 450V, and (1) 22mf 450v.
The 6X5GT for $4.00, was an exact replacement for the 6X5G tube.
Powered up slowly with the isolation Variac and no more hum. After a 30 second warm up I started picking up stations.
Reception and selectivity is marginal but volume and tone are good on the stronger AM stations. Next for a recap of the wax paper caps.
Question on tube temperatures:
The Diode tube 6X5GT is running at 223 degrees F.
The two larger 41 tubes are at 260 and 280.
The 7b7 near the transformer is running at 110, the center one at 130 and the right one at 105.
The two XXL tubes are 95 degrees each.
Can the temperature between like tubes be this far off, or do you think I have some resistors out of spec?
Thank you for all the help this far.

[Ron Ramirez]

Rectifier and audio output tubes normally run hot, while other tubes in a set generally do not. So, yes, the temperatures can (and do) indeed vary that much.

[rkeller]

It's Alive!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tXW6_kLXFB0
Now I need to finish recapping and do some de-oxing and an alignment.

[DeckApe]

Congratulations! Also a nice demonstration of variac procedure for us rookies.