[rfeenstra]

Yikes! What have I gotten myself into?!  I decided to start on my E.H. Scott 16.  The Amp/Power supply was the least intimidating so I started there.  Now to check out re-chroming businesses in the Grand Rapids, MI area.

[Brad Winder]

Good to see you have started- I'm going to try to find all the parts for my 16, before I start.

[Eliot Ness]

Good luck on the re-chroming.  The EPA has caused a lot of the small shops to close, but Advanced Plating in Tennessee is a large operation that does excellent work but their prices are on the high side.

I used to own a Scott 16 but I don't remember it having a separate power supply chassis, but it was several years ago when I owned it and I remember it was a very good performer with great sound...... another set I should have never traded away 

[Phlogiston]

You might like my Scott 16 restoration and re-chrome of the main chassis:

https://www.russoldradios.com/blog/77-ch...ted-rivets

[rfeenstra]

I was on your site previously.  Very impressive and a benchmark for my restoration.  Where did you get the chrome plated (nickle plated?) rivets?  I've been searching a bit but haven't found a good source as yet.

[Phlogiston]

Rivets are made by Keystone.

The chrome was done in Eugene OR. I would not recommend that co - even if they are still around.

[rfeenstra]

Great!  Digi-Key and Mouser handle Keystone.  I found a local custom chrome shop that I think will do the work, but not sure of the price as yet.could be prohibitive.  It's a semi-premium radio but to pay a super premium price for chrome work may be questionable.

[Phlogiston]

True. Try not to pay over $400 to have it chromed.

One thing to consider is that prices are going up as the plating industry dies. In the future it might not be possible to get it done at all.

[tasar]

Great outfit
http://www.badgermetalfinishing.net/

[rfeenstra]

I'll check them out.  One of the problems with the Scott re-chrome process is that the shields are aluminum and require special handling in the chrome stripping process.  People have had the shields destroyed by plating companies who did not know what they were doing with these thin aluminum cans.

[KCMike]

I'm working on an Scott all wave 23. The chrome is really rough. I stripped the power supply chassis down and took it to the chrome shop in the area; there is only two around here. The cost to do the power chassis the power transformer end bells and frames and the two choke coil end covers $660.00 that is total with the hazardous waste fee and taxes and they don't do aluminum.
I had planned to get it done first before taking on the main chassis which would be quite challenging. But I can see the total cost of this project going way out of control. So I'm not sure what I'll do.

[rfeenstra]

I'm in the same boat!  I just brought in the PS/Amp chassis with Transformer covers.  costing me hundreds.  I'll have to think hard before I bring in the main chassis.  I told them not to touch the one aluminum can I brought in.  I just talked to them about 1/2 hr ago.  they are almost ready to plate with nickle and chrome.  One part needed more copper to fill in the rust pits.  Maybe a couple of weeks and I can re-assemble the PS/amp.  Now I bought an Allwave 23 as well.  I haven't picked it up yet so I don't know exactly the chrome condition.

[Arran]

"I'm working on an Scott all wave 23. The chrome is really rough. I stripped the power supply chassis down and took it to the chrome shop in the area; there is only two around here. The cost to do the power chassis the power transformer end bells and frames and the two choke coil end covers $660.00 that is total with the hazardous waste fee and taxes and they don't do aluminum.

I had planned to get it done first before taking on the main chassis which would be quite challenging. But I can see the total cost of this project going way out of control. So I'm not sure what I'll do. "

 What you need to do is get in touch with some vintage car guys and ask them where they get their plating done. That $660 quote sounds like a "Go away and don't bother us" sort of price, which says that they are NOT the shop to take the stuff to. I would even look at places outside your area, or in another state if they recommend them, there are at least three replaters in my region but the shipping might make it prohibitive since I'm in B.C, to chrome plate aluminum is tricky but maybe someone who can plate pot metal can handle it. If push comes to shove you could probably buff the chrome off the aluminum and leave it that way.
Regards
Arran

P.S Here is one outfit that I have seen advertised on some car shows on TV, like "My Classic Car", I don't know much about them but worth looking into, they claim their prices are on the high side but they still sound more reasonable then the $660 boys. http://www.paulschrome.com/index.php/our...ice-ranges

[rfeenstra]

I got my 16 ps/amp back from the re-chrome shop.  I did not have the cylindrical can redone as it is aluminum and I've heard too many horror stories of them being destroyed in the stripping process.  All  electrolytic caps and tubular caps were re-stuffed.  I'm saving the old resistors and the 2 mica look-a-likes to make molds of and molding new resistors and mica's to look original.  Couldn't tell the color of the wires so I used Radio Daze's suggested color code.

   
   
   

[rfeenstra]

Once again - Yikes! What did I get myself into?

My intention is to strip the chassis and have it re-chromed.  A lot of rivets, as Russ pointed out.  A little intimidating to say the least.  I hope all of my pictures during "deconstruction" will help in the reconstruction.  Lots of places to make wiring errors in that process.