Working on a Model 54C, block cap #36 is listed as 3793-Y which was changed later to 3793-AM. Im pretty sure its a .015 rated at 1200v due it being across the output of the 43 tube.
My question is all the documents I have read is that the terminals of the block cap 1 and 3 is the capacitor.
If you are sure where the cap was connected (if the soldering looks factory), and the soldering of the lugs seems authentic, then why even question it: just put a new cap inside the same way it is now, and connect appropriately.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
It was a good question to ask and points out the fact that these bakelite blocks are not always wired up the way that the literature says they should be. I also looked up the info in Ray Blintoff's book and he doesn't have the AM block listed but the Y version is indeed shown as lugs 1 & 3.
I ran into the same issue with my Model 60 recently. I checked that the wiring connections to my bakelite block were at least consistent with the schematic, so I restuffed it the same way with the new capacitor, just as I found it.
i think that even though the two legs come out incorrect,, those looking for authentic or authentic restorations would be "looking" for the "incorrect" wired block.
to wire it to match the schematic is what i would personally do but,, since its wrong,, it kinda makes it right.
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