[Nathan Slingerland]

Evaporust is *awesome* (see this thread to learn about Evapo-Rust) but in my experience really only works well for items that can be immersed in it. For chassis rust I've tried the technique of soaking paper towels with it and covering with saran wrap, etc. but it just doesn't work as well. Naval jelly works for uneven surfaces but it eats away at rusted metal and non-rusted alike.

With that in mind I was excited when I came across Evapo-rust Gel.

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4707/2640...8a18_z.jpg]

I picked this up from O'Reilly Auto parts for $9.49. It's also listed on Amazon but temporarily out of stock.

Don't let the shape of the bottle fool you. The first thing you'll notice is that the bottle is *really* small. Just 8oz.

Instructions

The official instructions:

1. Prep
Prep rusted surface

2. Apply
Apply gel and wait

3. Clean
Rinse and wipe clean

For best results, do not use in direct sunlight. Use on rusted items at temperatures between 60°F and 90°F. Clean rusted item to remove dirt, oil, grease, and loose rust scales. Apply a thick coat of Evapo-Rust® Gel to the rusted areas. Allow to work for 1 to 2 hours or until rust appears removed. Rinse off. Repeat application on heavily corroded areas. If Evapo-Rust® Gel drys on surface, the gel may require a soft brush and water to remove.

I used a small paint brush to apply it. The first thing I noticed is that this 'gel' is **much** thicker than something like Naval jelly (what I was expecting). It's actually has a really curious elastic consistency that makes it want to stick to itself - as well as other surfaces. I don't think I've ever worked with anything quite like it.

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4746/4022...c344_z.jpg]

Hey! I know what it reminds me of...
   

Tips

The suggestion to apply a thick layer of it is good advice - this helps keep it from drying out.
I tried it out in my semi-finished basement which is a bit on the chilly side for Evapo-Rust. So I used a small electric heater to keep things warm.

I would apply it then check on it every hour or so to make sure it wasn't drying out. I applied more Evapo-Rust if needed.

It works about as quickly as regular Evapo-Rust. That means it works slowly - for deep rust it took several evenings of coming home after work, applying it, and then removing it a few hours later before going to bed. A weekend application is advised.

Before

I tested this out on a Philco 112X chassis:

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4652/3929...3a6c_z.jpg] [Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4695/4016...8937_z.jpg]
[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4657/2532...f2f8_z.jpg]

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4750/4018...d000_z.jpg] [Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4656/4018...7507_z.jpg]


After

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4756/3963...db15_z.jpg] [Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4608/4029...d27b_z.jpg]
[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4651/3853...0b15_z.jpg]

Overall it works great! There were some stubborn spots where I needed to use a brass brush to abrade the remaining bits of rust.
This will be my go-to for chassis de-rusting in the future. It takes time but the result is worth it.

I ended up using about 2/3 of the 8oz bottle for this chassis and a few spots on another 112. Unlike original Evapo-rust you can't use it multiple times. Mostly this is because to clean it up you need to use paper towels and water. So regular Evapo-Rust is definitely still better for anything that works for immersion.

Follow-Up
The Evapo-Rust label is careful to point out that it doesn't prevent rust - only removes it.
As suggested by the original Evapo-rust thread I'll follow up with T-9 Boeshield to protect the newly exposed metal.

[klondike98]

Thhanks Nathan! Great review.

[Tubesforme]

I can't say anything about Evapo-Rust Gel, however I have always used, with very good results, LockTITE Navel Jelly on the chassis and LockTITE Aluminum Jelly on the aluminum cans and newer tuning capacitor frames and plates. I apply it with a small brush, doing a small area of the chassis at a time, then using the 3M green scrubbing pad, wet, I rub the Jelly all around, really good. Next I take an old hand terry cloth towel soaked in hot water to clean the rust and Jelly off the chassis or can. Finally I dry it with an old towel. Just do not use the coiled aluminum pot and pan scrubbers, to cut the rust, or you can easily end up with a shorted circuit. The LockTITE Jelly comes in a small 8oz container and one container will easily be enough to do four or five chassis.

[Bob Andersen]

Excellent news! I'm a big fan of Evaporust. It may take a while but does not harm other materials like Naval Jelly can.

I have used T-9 on several projects with very good results. It's basically wax dissolved in a solvent and does a good job keeping the metal protected.