Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Line cord 42-1008
#1

Is there a source for a line cord,power cord for a 42-1008 ? Has a rubber pull through strain release.Brown two wire.
#2

Speaking only for myself, as others may have different sources / styles of line cords they like to use, but I've always been happy with these from Mark Oppat: http://www.oldradioparts.net/wire.html I've used them on dozens of radios over the years.

Greg V.
West Bend, WI
Member WARCI.org
#3

You won't find a line cord with a molded on strain relief. At least, I'm not aware of any.

Radio Daze does sell a replacement strain relief (only) that you would use with your own AC cord, or the cord which Greg linked to above.

http://www.radiodaze.com/black-rubber-st...em-pcsr-1/

Be aware: I've tried this, and it is smaller than the original and, as a result, may not stay in place as well as the original did.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#4

Is you BOL working? I have 2 42-1008's. One I completely restored, the other is a parts unit, but it's complete. I buy extension cords from Home Depot and cut off one end. That's what I have on my working 1008.
#5

Had the same experience with those strain relief's, Ron. Too small. I just went with a rubber grommet in the hole through the chassis and a knot in the cord on both sides of the chassis wall.

Greg V.
West Bend, WI
Member WARCI.org
#6

I thought that the strain reliefs were molded into the power cords on 1940s Philcos, at least on the past several I overhauled, I know this because I had to cut through them to remove what was left of the old, rock hard, and crumbling rubber cords these sets came with?
Regards
Arran
#7

Greg

I'm sure you have noticed that the Philcos of that era have a metal lip on the inside of the chassis hole through which the original cord-molded strain relief passed through. You can't just put a conventional grommet in there (too narrow). How did you handle it? I have resorted to cutting the lip away with my Dremel tool at times so that I could install a conventional grommet.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#8

Ron

 That's exactly what I've done, too.
#9

Used Radio Daze strain relief and extension cord from Lowes. Cut off the female end and now have a 12 foot line cord. The strain relief worked perfectly. Good and tight at chassis.
#10

Another way around that lip, if you are concerned about it cutting into the insulation of the power cord, would be to add a flat fiber, rubber, or plastic washer between the knot and the lip on the inside, but I have not noticed the edge of that lip being particularly sharp. Honestly i do not know why Philco did this with their chassis, even in using the cords with the molded on strain relief, I guess that they had the expectation that someone would only buy a replacement power cord from a Philco jobber, kind of like the derangement they seemed to have against someone using metal tubes in their sets. In any even they were using these style of power cord until the early 1950s at least, all made out of natural rubber, and all now rock hard and crumbling.
Regards
Arran
#11

Bol not working ,will be sending it to Antique sound in CT. for a rebuild. He refurbs the BOL,radio all ok. Dead silent without ant. connected volume wide open. Amazing!!!
#12

Heres a fuzzy pic of results.


Attached Files Image(s)
   
#13

A possible solution for those who want to replace a power cord through one of these fanged holes is to buy a roll of the uncured rubber electrical tape from any good hardware store. Wrap some around the cord where it will pass through the hole. make it thick enough in diameter so that it needs to be squashed a bit to fit through. It will cure into solid rubber after a while, it will protect the cord, and act just like a "molded on" strain relief.
#14

Good idea. Will use in future. These ideas are helpful and thanks to all.




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Zenith H725
David - I think I understand but what units are you discussing (Low of 1.7, high of 3.9)? Budget constraints for Ham ...EdHolland — 01:43 PM
My Philco 37-116 Restore
You're doing great. I wish I could be more involved, but my mind is right now preoccupied with the reason I am here in ...morzh — 12:21 PM
My Philco 37-116 Restore
Hope you guys are still with me. I have moved on to the alignment. I completed the IF alignment which was pretty muc...dconant — 10:47 AM
My Philco 37-116 Restore
Hello MrFixr55, Thank you for taking the time to explain. I measured 50 volts where you say. Today the 370 volts at ...dconant — 12:51 PM
462ron
Oh that sucks. It’s something easily overlooked. Hopefully it’s nothing more than a resistor! Ron462ron — 08:08 AM
Philco 46-480 Electronic Restoration
Just confirmed that you are correct. It’s the function generator. I connected the signal output probe to one of the inpu...jrblasde — 07:52 AM
Philco 46-480 Electronic Restoration
Ouch, you may be right. Yes, it is solid state. It’s the signal output of my oscilloscope. May be time to crack that ...jrblasde — 07:27 AM
462ron
If you didn’t put a DC blocking cap between the signal generator probe and the plate of the 1st IF it’s possible you ble...462ron — 07:07 AM
My Philco 37-116 Restore
Hi DConnant, The reason why C127 is isolated from ground is because sets of this vintage did not have the center tap...MrFixr55 — 01:07 AM
Philco 46-480 Electronic Restoration
The shield is on the 6H6. It was, in fact, a missing jumper to connect the main chassis ground to the RF chassis grou...jrblasde — 10:58 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 1026 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 1025 Guest(s)
Avatar

>