[Ron Ramirez]

I had to work this morning, but this afternoon I completely stripped one cabinet.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_009.jpg]

My RCA 6T2. All it needs is a quick veneer replacement on the bottom left side as shown, then it will be ready for finish sanding, sealer, grain filler, and lacquer.

Tomorrow I hope to get the Philco 66B and RCA T7-5 completely stripped.

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By the way, folks, when you are looking for gloves to wear when you are stripping cabinets, do not buy the black neoprene gloves sold by Home Depot. They are crap. First class, grade A monkey crap. I opened up a pair and started to put the first one on my right hand - it pulled apart as I was pulling it onto my hand. I've had good luck with the green plastic gloves so far; they just don't last a long time.

[Arran]

Ron;
  I have had good luck with either the yellow dish washing gloves, or the black industrial gloves, some say they are for acid, but either one seems to work well with paint stripper and solvents.
Regards
Arran

[Paul Philco322]

How is the humidity out there Ron? Would it affect you spraying lacquer? I do not know if anything would dry up here in Boston, we have been getting Gulf Humidity via big Bermuda High Pressures. Sticky.........................

Paul

[Ron Ramirez]

Humidity is always high in the summer in southern Indiana.

So Mohawk makes a product just for that...No Blush Plus. It's like Brylcreem...a little dab'll do ya. One can of No Blush Plus will last a long time, because it only takes a very light spritz to eliminate the white "blushing" in lacquer due to high humidity.

That's what I really liked about Deft clear lacquer...it usually wouldn't blush unless the humidity was super high. They don't sell Deft around here anymore. I have some Watco and some Rustoleum clear lacquer. When I run out of clear, I might start buying Mohawk clear.

An observation: All of the vendors around here seem to love pushing Rustoleum products for some reason, to the exclusion of all others; they're pushing Krylon out of the market here as well. I never cared much for Rustoleum spray paint because it tends to run too easily if you aren't super careful. But these days, it is all that I can find around here. I miss Krylon...

[Nathan Slingerland]

I've ordered Deft clear lacquer online from this site previously:
https://www.idealtruevalue.com/store/p/1...inish.aspx

Shipping cost isn't terrible (shows $13.99 for 12 cans).

[Paul Philco322]

Krylon products seem to be available at most ACE Hardware stores up here. I once brushed my teeth with my Dad's Brylcreem, think I was out too late the nite before, had a couple too many.

Good luck with the cabinets. It has been so humid up here I feel like doing nothing, I am off for a new dehumidifier today, my old one was from my parents house, over 25 years old I would guess and just conked out, switches broke made a heck of a noise when running............time for a new one. 

Paul

[Ron Ramirez]

I tried again today. Went through two pairs of green "Everlast" (Neverlast) gloves in very short order. I almost have my RCA T7-5 cabinet stripped...but for the lousy gloves.

I read somewhere today that acetone (supposedly) isn't particularly hazardous to humans, but being a cancer survivor already, I don't want to take any unnecessary chances. I'm certainly not going to use the stuff with my bare hands.

I did some research, and found that butyl gloves are best for handling acetone. Of course, if I want any of those, I will have to order some as none of the locals carry anything like that.

Nitrile gloves, which are (of course) the kind most commonly found around here, are the worst choice for tough chemicals like acetone and lacquer thinner. I guess the only thing worse than nitrile would be cloth gloves...or no gloves at all.

So I guess I'll confine my work to the RCA 6T2 cabinet until I get some suitable gloves.

[Arran]

Ron;
  I think that's what the heavy duty black rubber gloves are made from, butyl rubber, which is a synthetic rubber, they make inner tubes out of it, believe it or not I've found these in some of the dollar stores, as well as a tool store, and a work wear and safety equipment store. Nitrile gloves are everywhere because they pushed them as a latex glove substitute for those whom develop an allergy. If you can't find butyl gloves try a pair of dish washing/cleaning gloves, you can find those in the cleaning products isles of most supermarkets. Vinyl gloves may also be a substitute, I had some thin ones a while ago, I think that paint stores may sell those, but there are also thicker industrial grade versions, but I'm not sure what acetone may do to those, or paint and varnish remover, mineral spirits seems to make them stiffen up but it doesn't break them down.
Regards
Arran

[Ron Ramirez]

Well, lest youse guys think I have abandoned this thread...here's a brief progress report.

I finally acquired some butyl rubber gloves and tried again.

Success.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...18_008.jpg]

Kirk, I can finally see the wood of the front panel and the top of this Philco 66B.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...18_009.jpg]

It still needs a lot of stripping on the sides. Once the worst of the sides are stripped, I think going over it once or twice will take care of the remaining paint residue.

Butyl rubber gloves are the thing to use with the acetone/lacquer thinner recipe, or with straight acetone. At least they held up longer than five minutes.

Nitrile, schmitrile. Nitrile gloves are no good for any serious work with harsh chemicals! Unfortunately, nitrile is what's being pushed these days and I can't find rubber gloves locally anymore. I will be ordering more butyl rubber gloves for this work. The pair I have now are still good, but they won't last forever.

[Arran]

Ron;
  Are there none of the yellow (or blue) rubber gloves to be found in the local supermarket's cleaning products section? If there are I would give those a try, I used those with paint and varnish remover and never had any problems.
  As for the problems with getting paint off, get some of the old fashions paint and varnish remover, with methylene chloride, it's sold under several brands, such as Polystrippa. Here is one sold under the Watco brand at Walmart, claims that it will remover polyurethane:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Watco-Paint-a...t/48810140

 Use this stuff, and you probably won't have to go back for a round two on those cabinets, the longer you leave it on the more it will take off, use a stiff brush and wood chips to remove the residue in the cracks and moldings. Then follow it with a wash of acetone to get rid of anything that's left.
Regards
Arran

[Ron Ramirez]

> Are there none of the yellow (or blue) rubber gloves to be found in the local supermarket's cleaning products section?

Nope...just green Nitrile.

I guess I could try some methylene chloride stripper, but I really dislike using that stuff because it is very slow working and hard to work with.

[OldRestorer]

Looks messy!
Cant wait for more progress...

[Ron Ramirez]

A little cabinet progress was made this afternoon.

Since it was two non-Philco cabinets - both RCA Victor, a 6T2 and a T7-5 - these have been moved into their own threads.

You can see today's results of the RCA 6T2 cabinet work here.

I've moved the RCA T7-5 cabinet chronicles here.

I found that Menards carries latex and neoprene gloves, along with the multiple variations of nitrile. Nitrile gloves are like Smirnoff vodka - no good!

Oh, and yes, I also picked up a can of paint stripper with methylene chloride. I'll try that out one evening this week, or next weekend.

[Ron Ramirez]

So...after using the paint stripper on the sides, bottom trim, and the trim that goes from top center almost to the escutcheon...and then washing it off with acetone...here is how the 66B looks now:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...18_010.jpg]

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...18_011.jpg]

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...18_012.jpg]

A big difference from how it did look!

The paint stripper did not remove every trace of paint, but it did remove a majority of the stuff. Acetone is taking care of the residue. I think after two or three more washings, the 66B will be ready for sanding and sealing.

P.S. The butyl rubber gloves I bought a week or two ago are holding up quite well so far (knocking on wood).

[EdHolland]

That's loads better Ron, and a lot of work by the look of it. I'm really fond of this cabinet design, and it is great to see one getting the right attention