Ron's RCA 6T2 Restoration
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I'm going to start this thread and then I probably will not continue it until this fall or winter for reasons which you will soon see.
If you remember, I found this RCA Victor 6T2 on the auction site a few weeks ago:
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_002.jpg]
It had lots of dust covering the chassis, but no rust. Here's the chassis after blowing it off with compressed air (outside) and vacuuming it (inside).
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_003.jpg]
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_004.jpg]
The power transformer may have a problem.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_005.jpg]
Top view:
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_006.jpg]
and bottom:
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_007.jpg]
Yup...more rubber-covered wiring. Some of the original paper capacitors were replaced over the years, but the originals look good enough to restuff - they aren't falling apart as were the capacitors in my RCA T7-5.
more...
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Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 13,776
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State, Province, Country: Indiana
This RCA has a single, five section Candohm - R14, R15, R16, R17, R18. This is mounted on the inside of the back of the chassis.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_008.jpg]
Naturally, one section is bad...the one in the middle above...R15 (13K). The other sections are still good. All five will be replaced.
That presents another problem...just how shall I go about replacing this Candohm with terminal strips without having to drill holes through the old stickers on the back of the chassis?
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_004.jpg]
Hmmm...
Well, I shall have to think about that problem. Your input is also welcome, of course.
In the meantime, I have put everything back together and set it back on the shelf for now.
You can grab a copy of the service manual HERE ( WARNING: The file is 32.1 MB if you have a slow connection).
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Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
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On my 37-2670 I mounted the replacement resistors on a sturdy aluminum plate, using flat-head machine screws so that the heads would be flush with the aluminum backer.
I then mounted the whole assembly using the original holes for the drilled out rivets.
It looks like maybe you could do something similar here since the rivets are exposed (not covered by stickers AFAICT).
Posts: 13,776
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Say, that's a good idea!  Thanks!
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Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
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City: Sandwick, BC, CA
The paper labels will come off with acetone, if need be.
Regards
Arran
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Three weeks and one day ago, the 6T2's cabinet was stripped.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_009.jpg]
Today, I patched the missing veneer on the bottom of the left side, sanded the cabinet down, and sprayed on the sanding sealer.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...T2_010.jpg]
I made an unfortunate discovery during this: Apparently, Mohawk cans will go bad after so long. I found this out when the sealer blushed a little and I went to get my handy-dandy No Blush Plus - it would not spray properly. Replacing the nozzle made no difference. So this means another can needs to be ordered.
Hopefully, tomorrow evening, depending upon the weather: Grain filling of this cabinet.
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Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
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City: Lexington, KY
Looking good Ron, but I guess that doesn't bode well for the 6 or 8 cans of 10+ year old Mohawk that I just moved to the new house 
Guess I'll try them on scrap wood before spraying anything decent.
John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
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That's a good idea (spraying on scrap wood first).
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Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 4,707
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Joined: Sep 2008
City: Sandwick, BC, CA
Sometimes you need to invert the cans, and leave them atht way for a day or so, then right them, then invert again, then shake the dickens out of them to get them working. Wrinkle paint seems to be bad for plugging up especially since it's thick, I have one can of that I only got about 1/3 of the way through and it did that to me, regular paint seems to be easier to get going again.
Believe it or not you can re-pressurize an aerosol can as well, but it works better with one of those with the straw sticking out under the nozzle rather then the other kind. You get a Schrader valve stem, place it over the top, and blow air inside with a compressor, I have not seen this done with paint cans however.
Regards
Arran
Posts: 13,776
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I'll try that, thanks.
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Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
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City: Calgary, AB, CA
I also use the Mohawk toner and lacquer.
I use to have to take them to the paint shop and get them to shake them up.
After they are shaken up they are good for about three or four days. I got tired of doing that so now I attach the spray can to a orbital sander ,with zip ties and run the sander for about two minutes.
I have not had a problem with the toner after that.
I generally don't keep my toner for years, but I can see that it might be a problem
keeping it that long.
Dan in Calgary
Living in Calgary Alberta
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Maybe it's the cold of winter doing it? I've had some cans of Mohawk for 5 or more years and never had any problems with them. I know my can of blush is at least that old and I used it a couple months back.
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City: Calgary, AB, CA
I don't leave any of my lacquer or tiners out during the winter.
I just brought in all my stuff yesterday, as we have been getting frost warnings lately.
Dan in Calgary
Living in Calgary Alberta
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I keep mine in the basement, not outside.
However, that does make me think: I've been storing the cans on a shelf on an outer wall of the basement. Maybe that is affecting the cans? They will get moved to an interior basement wall before winter arrives again.
Meantime, I've ordered another can of No Blush Plus.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
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Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
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