Thread Rating:
  • 1 Vote(s) - 4 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Help needed for a Philco-Tropic Radio, model 3000, code 121
#1
Wink 

Hello everybody.
Recently i've recieved from a friend a Philco-Tropic Radio, model 3000, code 121 (according to the paper label on the back side of the chassis). This radio was bought allmost 20 years ago and before this purchase a techisian made some modifications because he replaced some tubes (14B6 with 12SQ7-GT, 35YA with 35Z5-GT and 50A5 with 50L6-GT). In my attempt to make it work again, i found some cables connected to ...nowere. So, i need a schematic for this radio but i can't find it. Any help will be appreciated.

Thank you in advance,
SV2HWH, Konstantinos.
#2

Thats a hard one... The 3000 is the chassis number I think. I believe you have a 3100. The model 3100 is uncommon and I could not find anything for a schematic. Not even on Radiomuseum.com

Icon_smile

Times I have been electrocuted in 2021
As of 1/01/2021
AC: 4 DC: 1
Last year: 6
#3

Welcome to the Phorum!
Icon_wave

If its really a 3010 with the 3000 chassis then Steve Johnson has schematics see: https://antiqueradioschematics.org/philco.htm
#4
Smile 

Good morning friends!!!!!! (Greece timezone!!!)
Indeed, it is quite hard to find schematic for this radio, but i'm afraid that the model is 3000      .
I found some similarities with the 3010 model of the Philco-Tropic series but still lot of differences...
So, still searching  Icon_smile

Thank you again,
SV2HWH Konstantinos
#5

Perhaps the other way to look at it would be to describe the hanging wires (where the attached end is connected) and figure out where the loose end goes. A pic or two may help too.
We're Hams we can fix anything! [Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...wisted.gif]

de N3GTE

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#6

Hello friends!!
At the upper side of the chassis there is a green cable which is connected, from the one side at the speaker and from the other side at the last join point (starting counting from the front of the chassis) and that is all!
The blue wire is connected at join point #4 with a 2nF capacitor (the dirtiest one at the foto) and from the other side to ...nowhere (just slip under the tuning capacitor). The 2nF capacitor is connected through the #1 join point to the antenna.
   

   

   

Yes, we are Terry, N3GTE and finally, we will fix it!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you again for the help!!!!!

SV2HWH, Konstantinos


Attached Files Image(s)
   
#7

Hi,
Oh you mean the .002 MF cap. Sorry I'm kinda old school w/these cap values. I would replace it as wired. Looks like it's in series with the ant to isolate the ant coil from chassis gnd which has some relation to the ac line. The blue wire is your ant wire which connects to your outside ant.

The green wire if it has no other connection at the terminal strip than to the spkr it's a test point to connect an ac voltmeter when servicing/aligning.

The short green wire that is soldered to the tuning capacitor trimmer should only be soldered on one of the trimmers, not both. The unsoldered end should still have the insulation and just slip thru the trimmer cap's lug hole.  It's used as small (in mmfd) cap to couple a little oscillator signal in to the input side of the mixer.

GL my friend


Attached Files Image(s)
   

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#8

Good evening friends!!!
Thank you Terry for the analysis!
Already the 0.002MF capacitor replaced with a new one and at it's end i will connect a cable for antenna (or a terminal for a longer external antenna).
The green wire will be left alone for now.
So, now, have to wait for the arrival of the 35Z5GT tube (the old one have a problem with the heater).

   

[attachment=17537]

This is the schematic of 3010 model, code 123, which is similar with model 3000. The "antenna" sector, up to the 14Q7 tube is the same, with same values of the components. 
   

Have a nice weekend!!!!!

SV2HWH, Konstantinos


Attached Files Image(s)
       
#9

Moved to Philco Electronic Restoration since we're dealing with an electronic restoration now.

Konstantinos, have you a photo of the front of the radio before you removed the chassis?

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#10

Good evening Ron.
I'm sorry if i caused any trouble with the wrong category.

   

Have a nice weekend!

SV2HWH, Konstantinos
#11

No problem...Ron and the modertators just move threads around as they change from a question into a more general electronic restoration discussion...
#12

^ What Bob said. Icon_smile

That is a neat little Tropic! I've never seen a picture of that model before, thank you. It is reminiscent of some Australian Philco models of the late 1940s.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#13

You are welcome Ron!!!!!
#14

As Terry stated previously, the radio is not going to work with that green jumper wire soldered on both ends connecting both sections of the tuning condenser together.!

Ron

Bendix 0626.      RCA 8BX5.   RCA T64
Philco 41-250.    Philco49-500
GE 201.             Philco 39-25
Motorola 61X13. Philco 46-42        Crosley 52TQ
Philco 37-116.    Philco 70
AK 35                Philco 46-350
Philco 620B.       Zenith Transoceanic B-600
Philco 60B.         Majestic 50
Philco 52-944.    AK 84
#15

Hello again friends!!!!
Indeed @462ron, it won't work... i'll keep in mind to remove this small, thin, geeen cable as soon as i return to my "lab".

Have a nice day!

SV2HWH, Konstantinos




Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
trying to identify this wire type
Greetings Phorum members, Hope you can help me identify this type of wire in the photo I have attached.  I am not sure ...georgetownjohn — 01:53 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
All correct shields must be in place, all tubes correct no subs of any kind. Check any soldered, riveted ground conne...Chas — 01:24 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
I have recapped and replaced out of tolerance resistors and so on. Radio plays nicely on fairly strong stations. The pro...dconant — 10:55 AM
Philco 46-420 Code 121 Reception issues
Welcome Eric, I agree with Bob and far as the two main electrolytic filter capacitors did you change them yourself or w...radiorich — 11:43 PM
Philco 46-420 Code 121 Reception issues
You mentioned the Philco manual and going through the check points...just to be sure we're on the same page here's the m...klondike98 — 08:13 PM
Philco 42-1008 conversion kit
Interesting. I haven't seen that before.klondike98 — 07:02 PM
12' Philco
Yes I had looked for it on the web as well some time back and could not find it. I was glad to see it turned up in Ron'...klondike98 — 06:59 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Now if you had a set with a tuning light then the bulb type is important to the circuit, some sets used those prior to t...Arran — 04:58 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Ok. Thanks for the correction.RossH — 03:09 PM
Model 28L
For 28 you will probably need to buy a Hammond 125CSE. Or any of the series of the power you need, with SE suffix. Then ...morzh — 02:09 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 6161 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 6160 Guest(s)
Avatar

>