[Ron Ramirez]

Steve - Thanks! The veneer I used on the front arch is not exactly the same as the original, but it is all that I had. Unlike the new veneer on the top/sides, this piece of veneer was harvested from an old radio.

Phil - I appreciate your thoughts, thanks! I was hopeful that if I spent a lot of time ironing, that no clamps would be needed. I did not use any clamps on the veneer repair I did to the front arch, just the iron. I used clamps on one grille bar, but only used the iron on the other grillebar.

I will never use that 3M blue tape again on a radio cabinet. In fact I threw the roll away after that accident occurred. It seems I have read somewhere that suitable tape made for use with lacquer can be found at certain auto parts stores? Perhaps this tape is the polypropylene you referred to. I'll have to look into this, as I have more cabinets I want to spray next year.

[Uffda]

Wood resto has always intimidated me, but I'm starting to see why some prefer to redo hacked up cabinets. Looks very satisfying. I suspect the sheet is much thinner and more pliable than the warped top in Hagstar's video. If I ever get around to combining the best parts of my two Philco 70 cabinets, the orphan will be a prime candidate for a skin graft.

[codefox1]

Most old time filler pastes are microscopic glass beads suspended in oil. The oil evaporates and then you sand lightly to even out the surface. This is done on porous woods and veneers. If you skip this step, even endless applications of laquer will be futile, as you will always leave witness marks as you sand down the last coat. Polyurethane is more forgiving, if not authentic. By the way, shellac the inside of the cabinet too because moisture travels both ways. If you get the orange peel complexion with lacquer the underlying finish is not cured, or the humidity is too high. Let it cure a couple of weeks, and give another coat. Yes, for most of us, high gloss is out.

You can dull down the finish with pumice, or for a mild effect, use rottonstone. Should be able to get this at an art store. After everything is done and cured for a couple of weeks, a little paste wax job should really be applied. Once a year after that, wax it again, and it will live on.

I too am an amatuer, and have not been active in woodworking in some time, but did have some luck on smaller pieces using shellac, and the process called French Polishing which is done with oil and shellac. Well I learned that's what they do to touch up scars from a rough move on Pianos and fine furniture.

But the radio does look grand. Better than I can do.

[Steve Davis]

Ron, I use the Behlen grain filler. I get mine at Grizzly, they have a store in Springfield Missouri and I stop in once in a while and pick up supplies. I have always used the oil based filler http://www.grizzly.com/products/Pore-O-P...ural/H3963 . I get it in the natural color and dye it with the Behlen dye base stain. http://www.grizzly.com/products/Solar-Lu...-qt-/H4770 I also use the dye to tint my lacquer.
Steve

[Ron Ramirez]

Thanks, Steve; if I don't use the Constantine's, I could try the Behlen product. Do you apply it the same way (i.e. rub it with burlap once it begins to set)?

No Grizzly's around here, but I see that Woodcraft carries it. There is a Woodcraft store in Evansville. I've bought Behlen toning lacquer there before.

[Steve Davis]

Ron, I think Grizzly sells on line. I don't have any burlap, so I use a piece of terry cloth and sometimes I use a razor blade to "squeegee" it off.
Steve

[Ron Ramirez]

Yes, I noticed they sell online, and take PayPal.

I will be trying one, or both, products next year when the weather gets warm enough for refinishing again.