[Snowmann35]

Hi,

I've search the net high and low to find the front of a 37-640 cabinet. I'm refinishing mine and I'm pretty sure it was refinished before. If anyone can point me in the right direction as to a website? I've been to the radio attic's and they display a console radio, and on philcoradio they don't have this model at all except for a 37-640b and also many other obscure sites and didn't find any pictures. Would it be possible that the electronics are not in the right cabinet?

[Snowmann35]

I forgot to mention that the 37-640B is also a console...

[Ron Ramirez]

37-640B tombstone:
http://www.philcoradio.com/gallery/1937a.htm#ak

37-640X console:
http://www.philcoradio.com/gallery/1937a.htm#al
(Note: This cabinet has been refinished; the side and bottom trim as well as the grille bars should be toned Extra Dark Walnut.)

37-640MX console:
http://www.philcoradio.com/gallery/1937a.htm#am

If your cabinet does not match one of these three, then the electronics are not in the original cabinet.

Can you post photos of your cabinet?

[Snowmann35]

Hi Ron,

Here's a few pictures of it.

This radio has no tag to identify it, I was told by the gentleman I bought it from that it was a 37-640. Looking under the chassis, there's a number scratched on it, 37-3640A?? I looked up on the net (philco 47.com)and found a schematic for a 37-3640, it looks identical as the 37-640.

[Snowmann35]

I'm not sure if you noticed in the picture, there's veneer missing on both sides, I was wondering if I need to replace the whole section or if there's tricks to save what's left?

[Snowmann35]

Here is a picture of the speaker, I don't know if it can be saved. I would hate to have to modify this radio to install a permanent magnet speaker. I've looked around for a replacement cone but I was told that unless I have the exact dimensions (I was told that depth is the most important) but I'm not sure how to measure it to be precise, which is another I've learned? If someone knows wether or not I can save this speaker and to point me in the right direction to find a detailed description of how to do this.....I'm sure it's probably somewhere on this site, but I'm not quite use to it yet.

[Snowmann35]

Just in case, here's a pic of the electronics.

[Ron Ramirez]

Ah ha - 37-3640A is a Canadian Philco.

I have very, very little info on Canadian-built Philco sets; I do know that the Canadian versions were often different from U.S. Philco models.

This must be one of them.

Does the cabinet have "spacer" boards on either side of the chassis? I suspect that cabinet is the same size as the USA Models 37-643B, 37-650B, 37-2650B, 37-660B and 37-665B, as it is identical in appearance. But the 37-640/3640 chassis is physically smaller than the chassis that would be used in that cabinet if it were a USA model.

[Ron Ramirez]

Forgot to answer your speaker question.

Yes, it can be saved, and it will require reconing. That would be much better than converting it to use a PM speaker, which you want to avoid if at all possible.

I don't have the details on how to measure the depth of speaker cones. If I'm not mistaken, I believe it involves using a straightedge to measure the depth from the top of the cone to the inside.

[Snowmann35]

Hi Ron,

Thanks for the info. now that I know the speaker does need a new cone I need to find one that'll actually take canadian shipments. I'm not sure what you mean by "spacer" on either side, I've looked and all I see is a 1/4" board about a 1" wide running from the bottom back of the cabinet all the way around to the other bottom of it.

Either way, the schematic looks identical to the 37-640 so I'm going to use the specs on that schematic. And thanks for the model numbers that are equivalent to this cabinet style.

Have you had a chance to look at the veneer at the bottom of the cabinet? Do I have to change both section or is there a way to fix it?

[codefox1]

Re the veneer: Here's a trick I have used in the past:

If you can remove the molding at the bottom of the set without making the problem worse, you may find that the veneer ran all the way down, so you might be able to carefully harvest enough of the "hidden" veneer to patch the missing pieces. I would score along the molding with a razor blade or scalpel so that the middle part of the veneer does not slit or tear when you remove it. You can patch the hidden areas from which you harvest the "donor" veneer with any scraps you have of the same thickness before re-attaching it.

[Steve Davis]

Hi Snowmann, if you want to recone the speaker your self, here are some cones I have used on Philco speakers.

http://www.electronix.com/speaker-replac...13892.html

Also, here is another place.

http://www.matelectronics.com/acatalog/M...s_208.html

I have not tried them though.

Steve

[Radioroslyn]

Hi Steve
Very interesting! Can you just glue the edge of the foam to the metal frame with rubber cement after gluing and centering the voice coil?
Terry

[Snowmann35]

Thanks for the tip Codefox1, I'm learning here, a little bit at a time, and your info. is greatly appreciated.

[Snowmann35]

Thanks for the links Steve in Missouri, I appreciate it!!!