Posts: 16,483
Threads: 573
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson
State, Province, Country: NJ
The first cap is 12uF.
The maximum the tube can tolerate is 20uF.
But you should not go much above 12uF as the voltage will rise and the rest of the tubes will run hotter than needed.
Pick the closest value; 12uF does exist in 500V rating. Or you could parallel or serialize. 10uF by Panasonic I use is a better cap with better ripple rating.
The second cap could be almost anything; 10uF is fine, 20uF is also fine. So is 30.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
Posts: 5,164
Threads: 273
Joined: Nov 2012
City: Wilsonville
State, Province, Country: OR
Here's an image of what the original can's probably looked like.
The replacements don't look too bad and could simply be stuffed with the 8 & 12uF caps. Note the negative of the 12uF negative does not go to chassis ground but does go to the center tap of the power transformer.
Or you could see if you can find some original can's.
Posts: 13
Threads: 2
Joined: Jan 2019
City: Reinholds
State, Province, Country: PA
Hello all,
Please let me know if I can continue to post these types of questions in this section. Again, I'm new to the Phorum and want to abide by the rules. Altho' I've been a service tech for many years this is my first attempt at restoring a vintage radio.
I'm really puzzled by the bakelite device shown in my attachment. The schematic layout I have for this 37-610J shows this as ref.#59, which is a dual .015 line bypass capacitor. But that is not correct. The twin .015 cap block is at the other end of the chassis and is easily identified because the line cord attaches directly to it.
I'm not even sure the device in question is a cap. I thought it was a coil because it has a direct short across the outer terminals. I believe the center terminal is just a tie point.
Anyway, I cannot find this device on the schematic. One end connects to the plate of the 6F6, the other end goes to a tap on the tone switch.
I've looked everywhere I could think of for the correct schematic and came up empty. This particular radio has the rectifier socket on the power transformer.
Hopefully, someone can point me in the right direction. I'd be really embarrassed if this turns out to be an obvious thing.
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
(02-01-2019, 12:52 PM)Randy Ulrich Wrote: Please let me know if I can continue to post these types of questions in this section. Again, I'm new to the Phorum and want to abide by the rules.
You're doing fine.  In fact, I want to thank you for not starting multiple threads about the same radio - that IS against the Phorum rules.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 13
Threads: 2
Joined: Jan 2019
City: Reinholds
State, Province, Country: PA
I forgot to mention … on the side of this device is the marking "8318-SU". And since I made this initial post I've ordered a schematic from Chuck Schwark at the Philco Repair Bench. Hopefully, this print will show the part in question.
Posts: 5,164
Threads: 273
Joined: Nov 2012
City: Wilsonville
State, Province, Country: OR
8318-SU is a single 0.03uF bakelite cap. The U indicating that teminal lug 1 is not grounded to the chassis. The cap should be between lugs 1 & 3. See Service Bulletin 289 in the Library section
http://philcoradio.com/library/index.php...bulletins/
I think ths would be cap# 50 on the schematic.
Posts: 13
Threads: 2
Joined: Jan 2019
City: Reinholds
State, Province, Country: PA
Thanks Bob, that really helps and it makes sense. That cap out of circuit has a dead short across it. What's becoming increasingly clear to me is that the parts layout I have for this radio is not correct. The #50 cap that is shown on my layout doesn't even exist in this radio and their reference to #59 as the AC line bypass cap is not right either.
I wonder if the reason for this discrepancy is because of the placement of the rectifier on the PT as opposed to the chassis next to the output tube.
Anyway, thanks again. Much appreciated.
(This post was last modified: 02-02-2019, 08:20 AM by Randy Ulrich.)
Posts: 13
Threads: 2
Joined: Jan 2019
City: Reinholds
State, Province, Country: PA
02-23-2019, 05:40 AM
Can you direct me to a good source for these caps? (The 8, 12 and 16 uf?) I've gone to Mouser, Digi-key and a few other suppliers but haven't really been too successful. You stated that Panasonic were the types you used but I've not found them.
Also are you using a 500V rating or is 450V sufficient? The original caps are missing on this radio so I don't know what the original ratings were and I'm not seeing a rating on the parts list.
And lastly, are you using radial or axial lead types?
Thanks in advance for helping out this newbie.
Posts: 1,475
Threads: 69
Joined: Nov 2012
City: Kansas city, MO.
Can you direct me to a good source for these caps? (The 8, 12 and 16 uf?)
You might have a look here. JUST RADIOS. They do have a minimum order of 20.00.
I have used them and had good service.
https://www.justradios.com/cart.html
Posts: 13
Threads: 2
Joined: Jan 2019
City: Reinholds
State, Province, Country: PA
Thanks for the tip. As I'm learning to navigate the huge resources of this site I found the answer to my question regarding working voltages for these caps in the Philco Library under Parts Lists. Thanks again!
Posts: 16,483
Threads: 573
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson
State, Province, Country: NJ
Also, you do not necessarily need exact values.
Mouser is my go-to place for most parts. It has pretty much all I need, except maybe magnetics, and even then....
I use 500V for some places and 450V for others. My staple cap is 22uF 450V, a high ripple Panasonic one, and when I need 10-12uF for the first filter cap, I simply serialize the two. It will work even without the anti-leakage resistors.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
|
Recent Posts
|
Need Help to ID this radio 11 tube Philco
|
Yes the 16B as morzh pointed out. Specifically its the January 1935 model version of the 16B. There are a couple earli...klondike98 — 11:51 PM |
48-482 rear panel help
|
Welcome to the Phorum, keithchip! How far you take a radio on cabinet restoration is a matter of personal preference. ...GarySP — 11:28 PM |
48-482 rear panel help
|
I've recently finished the internal restoration of a locally purchased Philco 48-482. The cabinet is in ok shape except ...keithchip — 10:28 PM |
Need Help to ID this radio 11 tube Philco
|
Welcome to the Phorum, Ken! Lots of help here for all of your restoration questions. Take care and BE HEALTHY! - Gar...GarySP — 07:59 PM |
Need Help to ID this radio 11 tube Philco
|
Thank you.
I went to your online library and found 2 schematics.
I will download and compare to components!Ken D. — 06:31 PM |
Need Help to ID this radio 11 tube Philco
|
It is a 16B tombstone.morzh — 06:13 PM |
Zenith H725
|
David - sorry, I reread your post and finally saw THD - now the % figures make sense. Thanks for explaining.
The PSU...EdHolland — 06:06 PM |
Need Help to ID this radio 11 tube Philco
|
Hi Everyone,
New member but have been reading this for awhile for tips!
Vaccum tubes were before my time so bear with ...Ken D. — 06:03 PM |
My Philco 37-116 Restore
|
Thank you MrFixR55, I appreciate your comments very much. I do not detect much hum if any so I will be staying with the ...dconant — 05:15 PM |
My Philco 37-116 Restore
|
Hi DConant
Yes, you can replace chokes with resistors. You do stand the risk of increased hum. the solution is to inc...MrFixr55 — 04:23 PM |
Who's Online
|
There are currently 572 online users. [Complete List] » 1 Member(s) | 571 Guest(s)
|
|
|

|