[sdradioman]

So am I understanding this correct, part #75, a 10MFD electrolytic has the positive lead connected to the center tap of the power transformer and the negative going to chassis ground?


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B64cfWa...l0YXM/view

Second page down...

[Stall-U-Rated]

Its the reverse of what you said.. the POSITIVE side that goes to chassis. Same capacitor confused me and a few others when we encountered it..

Steve

[sdradioman]

So the positive lead connects to the chassis, and the negative to the center tap... So when I restuffed this cap, there where 2 lugs, and the ground strap which was wedged between the outside of the cap can and the paper insulator... I ran each of the positive leads of the replacement caps to their respective lugs, and both negative leads connected together to the ground strap... I then ran my center tap to the ground strap, which is where it was prior to removal... Then tied all the components to the positive of the 8MFD lug, and then there is a wire running from the 10MFD lug over to a lug of the Interstation Noise Suppresion potentiometer, which has a strap running from it riveted to the chassis... So the positive lead of the 10MFD is running to the chassis via the lug on the potentiometer, with the negative to the center tap... Long description, but does this sound correct?

[Stall-U-Rated]

As long as the - side of the cap is connected to the power trans center tap and the positive is hooked to the chassis strap connection off the ISN pot, it should be good to go.. They forgot to indicate the + side of #75 goes to ground on the schematic..

Steve

[morzh]

The centertap of the transforner is ALWAYS the MOST NEGATIVE point in the entire radio. Just remember it. Any capacitor placed between ANYTHING and the centertap will have its Minus on the centertap.

[EdHolland]

My 16 Chassis is missing the original #75 capacitor. Does anyone have a picture, please, of what they look like? I know they mounted above the chassis, and the correct location, but I don't know what the component itself looks like. I'd quite like to reproduce one, or restuff and mount a replacement.

Somewhere in the mists of time, a service man had removed this cap, and the big filters.

Thanks in advance,

Ed

[Stall-U-Rated]

Mine was missing as well and someone had been tinkering around in there before it reached my hands... Do a google search on philco 16b and click on "images" above and cruise through the pictures. Some show chassis pics.. The #75 is under the chassis as i recall. Or do a search here and look at all the 16b repair topics and look at the pics.. Since those caps were removed from mine, i just re-designed the cap placement underneath since it wouldnt be seen anyways.. Youtube has a 16b rebuild series some gentleman did on his and it helped give me some ideas... I wish he'd covered the tune up a little better, thats where im stuck at the moment.

Steve

[KCMike]

ED here's an article on the 16B with some pictures that might help.
https://mcclellans.com/Philco16BCathedra...ration.htm

[sdradioman]

Mine did not have a seperate #75 cap, it was part of #88.... Mine was missing the #87 8MFD cap, which someone in the past put a replacement under the chassis... I found a replacement can and restuffed it, which took care of #87... As far as #88 goes, I believe it to be original because it is a 2 section, 8MFD and 10MFD labeled PHILCO... According to the part locator picture, the #75 cap would be mounted right next to the rectifier... Mine only had a tiny hole next to the rectifier and NO evidence of a cap ever being there... I believe #75 was incorporated into #88, and the data was never updated... Mine was setup just like ED's cathedral...

[EdHolland]

Thanks folks. That same hole in the chassis next to the rectifier is evident in my chassis, and in the article and pictures linked by KCMike - I suppose they failed a lot