Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Echophone model s3 no sound
#1

Working on the 5 tube version (three 24's, a 45 and 80) of the 1930 Echophone, this one is a model S3:

   

My chassis appears to be the "improved" schematic version on the bottom.

I replaced all of the caps, save for the two .02 mfd's (I wanted to replace the "tar boxes" and then see if I could coax some sound out of it). I also read a thread on ARF where Norm suggested changing c14 and c16 to 10 mfd electrolytics and eliminate c15 to improve sound and reduce hum, so that's what I did.

So, after trying several tubes, I'm still getting no sound. My voltages are quite erratic as well (See the chart below...I used the mouse to "color" in red the values I'm getting...hence the hen scratching that looks like a 4 year old wrote it Icon_smile )

   

Trying to inject a signal, I get noise that's controllable with the volume control across both the long and short antenna terminals. On the grid of the output tube I get noise, but no noise on the plate of the output tube. On the plate of the detector tube I get noise, but no noise on the grid of the detector tube. The resistors are a bit high (save for the 2 meg which is reading 5 meg) but none are open.

The choke measures about 400 ohms, so that's not open. Speaker field and output transformer are good.

Anyone (paging Terry) have any thoughts on where to zero in on first? It seems to be a relatively simple 5 tube radio but very ancient in design (it has a multi tap, open air transformer that looks pretty scary in itself but it still putting out voltage and not drawing any amps).

Greg V.
West Bend, WI
Member WARCI.org
#2

Did you connect the - side of c-14 to the chassis?
Does it ave the original spkr that has a tap in the field coil winding?

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#3

>>Did you connect the - side of c-14 to the chassis?

No, the neg side is going to the choke and transformer.

>>Does it ave the original spkr that has a tap in the field coil winding?

It's a Jensen speaker that looks to be a replacement, but it DOES have the tap in the field coil. That checks out good.

Greg V.
West Bend, WI
Member WARCI.org
#4

How much - voltage do you have from the ct of the hv winding to the chassis? Need abt -50v. With -1.7v on the grid of the 45 the plate current is going to be pretty high. Disconnect one end of the C-5 and see with the - voltage increases. If C-5 is leaky that will apply + voltage to the grid of the 45, not good.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#5

I jumped the gun a bit and should've just went ahead and replace the two .02 caps and the resistor bank. That revealed an open 1 meg resistor, a bad solder joint at the non-grounded .02, and some bad solder joints around the speaker plug. Happy to report she is singing tonight and actually sounding pretty good for an 89 year old radio. Voltages are there where they should be now. What a strange power transformer, though. Just by moving the fuse between terminals 84 to 85 or 85 to 86 you can go from 110 volts to 125!

Greg V.
West Bend, WI
Member WARCI.org
#6

The 2nd .02 (goes from from the output trans to gnd) could be reduced in value to brighten up the sound a bit, to .01 or .005 mfd.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Hippo 46-420 Schematic doesn't match parts list.
The only place I was able to find a schematic with a parts list was on radiomuseum.   Problem is that the parts list doe...TomasTomas — 02:51 PM
Restoring Philco 37-604C
Ron Here are the two of my jigs side by side. They have been with me about the same time (a couple of month differenc...morzh — 02:05 PM
Kurt P
Terry, gotcha, thanks for the clarification.  That’s probably why the speaker seems shorted.  Assuming the OT/FC/speaker...Kurt P — 10:59 AM
Radiola 18 Amplifier & PS
I have the 2.25V and 2.5V information confused, and must look more carefully at the schematic and Hammond transformer in...TN Allen — 10:24 AM
Radiola 18 Amplifier & PS
Thank you for the information, it all helps, although understanding some of it takes time. One reason for doing the PS a...TN Allen — 09:42 AM
462ron
Hi Mike, the radio is coming along nicely but wow, you must have some serious moisture in your shop judging by the amoun...462ron — 06:29 AM
Restoring Philco 37-604C
Have rebuilt the can. The can had 4 caps in it, 2x16uF, 10uF and 8uF. I used a 15uF as the first cap, 22uF and 10uF ...morzh — 09:38 PM
Philco 89B code 123 newbie
The flat copper wires are from the hum bucking coil. All of the other resistances seem to be OK.Radioroslyn — 04:15 PM
Help with weston 669
I need help with my 669 meter. I recapped it becausing it was pegging the meter out. Now the neon light comes on (not su...daveone23 — 02:42 PM
Philco 89B code 123 newbie
I may be incorrect but you should measure around few ohms for the voice coil. In addition you may have a hum bucking coi...RodB — 02:29 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 3747 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 3745 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>