Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

My 16B
#46

All the good radio shows are late at night. Like Ziggy's Midnight Blue, conspiracy theory shows, etc. I like working at night as it's quiet in the house with no phone interruptions. Once I focus in on a project, I tend to loose track of time. Before I know it, it's 2 or 3 am. The problem is, I have a hard time sleeping in in the morning. Eventually I have to play catch-up.
#47

That looks fabulous Rob. I'm glad the coil was helpful - was it tricky to reconnect the fine wires from the internal bobbin?

Even without an RF stage, these radios impress me. In fact, one of my favourite modern communications receiver brands chose to go straight in to the mixer stage (via bandpass selection) and still achieved microvolt sensitivity. If you can hear the atmospheric noise jump when the antenna is connected, generally you have enough sensitivity.

I don't hold with furniture that talks.
#48

Not really difficult. I had to extend one of the wires from the coil by about an inch. I used 35 AWG magnet wire. The hardest part is stripping the old enamel off from the original wire. It doesn't strip with just the heat of the solder iron like the new wire does. None the less, it wasn't difficult and it works great. I'm surprised at its sensitivity without an RF amp, as you seem to be. I was also surprised at how close bands 4 and 5 turned out to be without separate compensators for heach band. All and all, very pleased and have been listening to it in the shop for the last couple of days as I change out 100's of tiny pots on some Allen Organ tone boards from a large custom organ. I slowly go insane with the tedium!

I may tackle the cabinet before I do some of the others that are waiting. The radio sounds so much better with the speaker in the cabinet and I kind of like this radio!
#49

Decided to try my hand at molding resistors.  They kind of look original...if you don't look to closely.

   
#50

Unless one is an expert and uses a magnifying glass......great job! Looks as original as ever. (Well, Russ or Steve might notice something Icon_smile but not me )

Have you used plastic or epoxy/filler mold?

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#51

Fine job, Rob. Fine job. Icon_thumbup

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#52

I made the mold in epoxy resin and the resistors are epoxy putty. I won't do it that way again. The epoxy mold makes it too difficult to get the original parts out even with a lot of mold release. I'll buy some of the silicone rubber molding compound that Russ uses and recommends. A tiny bit of flexibility would help greatly in removing parts.

Only the 3 larger ones are redone. The rest are original with a hidden, parallel resistor underneath.
#53

That's what I recently started doing: hide a smaller resistor to parallel the original to bring the resistance within tolerance limits.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#54

That works for the smaller dogbones. They all seem to go up in value. As you mentioned before, the large ones seem to go down in value. Replacement is the only reasonable way to get it into spec. I have tried to hide a series resistor but it doesn't work well as far as the installation is concerned. I did do that on my 45C. Probably won't again now that I know I can do this.
#55

ON my recently finished 45C I did both. Yes, with the large resistors I had to use the modern types as they went down quite a bit. I could serialize of course but then serialization does not lend itself to hiding as well as paralleling does.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#56

I'm looking to finish this electronic restoration up.  There were 2 labels on the back of the radio that were gone when I got the radio.  I presume the area circled in blue is where the gold, model label was located.  What might have been on the capacitor can?  Did Philco put something there, or was it, perhaps, another sticker from the repair company in maine?  Also, there was something on the top of the capacitor can.  It looked like it may have been another sticker.  Perhaps a part number sticker?  Thanks!

       
#57

Mine has no sticker, maybe there is a ghost of a sticker.

   
#58

Thank you. I suspect it was from the repair shop.
#59

I decided to complete this radio so I started the refinishing process.  I could start a thread in the finish section but it made sense to me to keep it all together.

The cabinet has been stripped and now has 2 coats of Mohawk EZ Vinyl sealer.  Next will be filler, than sanding sealer and finally, semi gloss lacquer.

Questions on toner colors.  I'll use walnut brown grain filler even though the wood is, I believe, some form of mahogany.  You can see how dark the finish was under the escutcheon. What toner would you recommend for the inset?

The surrounding wood was fairly red.  Toner recommendation? The trim pieces were not a lot darker than the surrounding wood.  I may darken it ever so slightly more than the surrounding wood to help hide the end grain at the top and the joint.

The sides were quite dark and red.  A suggestion for toner?

Thank you in advance for your recommendations!

                   
#60

I tend to stay away from the mahogany to me it too red and you loose the yellow quickly. If you like it just a little on the caramel side of things I stick w/ the walnut and sometimes I add a little yellow by using pine ( I think look @ the color chart ).

ymmv

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco 91 Restore Code ??
Can someone tell me if my 42 tubes are connected triode or pentode in fixed or cathode bias? How could I tell by looking...dconant — 10:47 AM
Philco 40-120C Restoration
Hello David, that is great news about the tubes source being local ! Sounds like you got good start on the radio . ...radiorich — 09:41 AM
An attempt to remove the Field Coil from a G speaker
Mike; I've only run into a speaker with an open filed coil twice, and they were on newer speakers from the 1940s. One ...Arran — 12:48 AM
An attempt to remove the Field Coil from a G speaker
Arran Yes, this is my plan for now and what do I got to lose, this is not even the speaker from this radio, but one o...morzh — 10:44 PM
An attempt to remove the Field Coil from a G speaker
Mike;  I would unwrap the field coil, and see if maybe there a break near one of the ends, like where the coil wire att...Arran — 10:23 PM
An attempt to remove the Field Coil from a G speaker
...and this is what I did. I fed a little LT into the screwholes with a small brush, and a little on the rim next to the...morzh — 09:52 PM
Philco 40-120C Restoration
I combined the two 40-120C threads together as we like to keep the discussion of the same radio together. It helps with...klondike98 — 09:36 PM
Philco 40-120C Weak, Distorted Ouput
Just checked were I buy tubes price is four dollars. So living in Florid we have a local source for tubes. David    David — 09:14 PM
Philco 40-120C Weak, Distorted Ouput
The higher voltage may be due to higher mains voltage. My mains run 120-125AC when the set was new mains would be 110-11...David — 09:09 PM
Philco 40-120C Weak, Distorted Ouput
Thank you for your reply. I pulled a speaker from a Philco 41-221 and received the same result. I used a signal tracer t...bluecap — 08:45 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>