Posts: 1,402
Threads: 70
Joined: Oct 2007
City: Linn Creek, MO
A few months ago, I bought Philco 90 chassis from one of our friends at ARF. This is the less common late version, with the push-pull 47 output. I haven't done a complete radio restoration in more than a year. After watching Ron's restorations and a couple of others, I decided it's time to do this one. About the time I bought the chassis, I had a fellow order a 90 cabinet so, I went ahead and made two at the same time, knowing I would need one. Also, the large tube shield was missing. I was able to find a 91 tube shield on eBay. The only thing I don't have is the correct speaker.
[Image: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/4816...c04b_k.jpg] Philco 90 Chassis by Steve Davis, on Flickr
[Image: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/4816...81df_k.jpg] Philco 90 Chassis by Steve Davis, on Flickr
M R Radios C M Tubes
Posts: 1,402
Threads: 70
Joined: Oct 2007
City: Linn Creek, MO
The chassis has quite a few rusted spots that I have sanded out. I removed the tuning condenser and masked aluminum cans and tube sockets. I bought a couple of cans of spray paint, hoping to find a close match to the original color.
[Image: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/4916...6327_k.jpg] 100_0039 by Steve Davis, on Flickr
The Ultra Matte Slate turned out to be a little bit dark.
[Image: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/4916...961b_k.jpg] 100_0021 by Steve Davis, on Flickr
So, I tried Satin Granite.
[Image: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/4916...5707_k.jpg] 100_0038 by Steve Davis, on Flickr
It turned out too light.
[Image: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/4916...23a9_k.jpg] 100_0029 by Steve Davis, on Flickr
I decided to mix the two. I sprayed the paint in to a couple of mixing cups then mixed them and used my spray gun to apply. After a little trial and error, I came pretty close. The tube shield is the original finish.
[Image: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/4916...8779_k.jpg] 100_0031 by Steve Davis, on Flickr
Steve
M R Radios C M Tubes
Posts: 1,475
Threads: 69
Joined: Nov 2012
City: Kansas city, MO.
That looks good Steve. I've had the same problem of trying to find a paint that is close to original chassis color in a spray can.
Keep the restoration updates coming.
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 1,190
Threads: 50
Joined: Oct 2017
City: Allendale, MI
I'm watching carefully too! I've had to paint a couple of chassis but have had a hard time deciding what the original color was. Heavily oxidized cadmium is different than fresh cadmium (I've cadmium plated a few aircraft parts.) Chassis areas that have been covered with transformer mounting tabs look different than the exposed areas (much brighter.) I've used a brighter aluminum paint which is, no doubt, much lighter, brighter than original. I'm anxious to see how yours turns out!!
(This post was last modified: 12-03-2019, 11:28 PM by rfeenstra.)
Posts: 1,402
Threads: 70
Joined: Oct 2007
City: Linn Creek, MO
The early Philco chassis such as the 90 were not cadmium plated. I'm not sure what they used, it looks like some thin wash coat of some kind. Slightly later Philcos had cadmium plated chassis.
Steve
M R Radios C M Tubes
Posts: 194
Threads: 43
Joined: Jan 2019
City: Brownsville 42210
State, Province, Country: Kentucky
oh boo you didn't paint it hot pink ha ha.
Posts: 1,190
Threads: 50
Joined: Oct 2017
City: Allendale, MI
Posts: 1,402
Threads: 70
Joined: Oct 2007
City: Linn Creek, MO
Jake, go ahead and send me yours, I'll paint it hot pink for you
Steve
M R Radios C M Tubes
Posts: 194
Threads: 43
Joined: Jan 2019
City: Brownsville 42210
State, Province, Country: Kentucky
All i used is gojo and mothers mag polish on mine lots of black and nicotine paste came off but my old 50A smelled like 70+ of cigar use. cleaned up pretty well but i was fortunate there was no rust.
Posts: 1,402
Threads: 70
Joined: Oct 2007
City: Linn Creek, MO
I removed the end bells from the power transformer, cleaned and painted them. I painted the core while still on the chassis. I masked the windings and placed cardboard under it to protect the chassis.
[Image: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/4916...e1ec_k.jpg] 100_0041 by Steve Davis, on Flickr
[Image: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/4916...a188_k.jpg] 100_0045 by Steve Davis, on Flickr
[Image: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/4916...d8a7_k.jpg] 100_0058 by Steve Davis, on Flickr
Steve
M R Radios C M Tubes
Posts: 1,402
Threads: 70
Joined: Oct 2007
City: Linn Creek, MO
Posts: 1,402
Threads: 70
Joined: Oct 2007
City: Linn Creek, MO
Posts: 194
Threads: 43
Joined: Jan 2019
City: Brownsville 42210
State, Province, Country: Kentucky
I like your chassis helper though it does look heavy.
Posts: 1,402
Threads: 70
Joined: Oct 2007
City: Linn Creek, MO
I'm ready to start restuffing condenser blocks. I have a new set of "dogbone" resistors that I will be installing at the same time.
[Image: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/4916...ebf6_k.jpg] Philco 90 Restoration by Steve Davis, on Flickr
When I look at the bottom of the chassis, I can see a few problems. The most noticeable is the end section of the B-C resistor is burned. This section provides the bias for the 47 tubes. It reads 195 ohms, it should be 205. That makes me wonder if there one or two turns shorted. I may cut that section out and replace it with a separate resistor.
[Image: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/4916...7dbf_k.jpg] Philco 90 Restoration by Steve Davis, on Flickr
Another thing is, someone in the past, added an extra capacitor that makes no sense. Originally there was a .25 uf located in a metal can with 3 other sections that by passes a 25K resistor going to the 27 detector amp. This lead to the .25 uf was clipped and the .01 cap was connected in series with the .25 uf. This looks to have been done many years ago.
[Image: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/4917...9531_k.jpg] Philco 90 Restoration by Steve Davis, on Flickr
Steve
M R Radios C M Tubes
Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)
|
Recent Posts
|
1930s Stromberg-Carlson Tombstone Radio need help identifying model number
|
Hi Cap'n Clock,
Unfortunately, I do not have this radio. This is a shame because this should be a good performer. 2A5...MrFixr55 — 06:48 AM |
American Bosch Model 802 auto radio
|
I think it would come under either American Bosch or United American Bosch. American Bosch made sets for the American We...Arran — 05:53 AM |
trying to identify this wire type
|
Thanks to all for the feedback. As Arran said, it is probably an older replacement and yes it has a grid cap so I will ...georgetownjohn — 09:32 PM |
trying to identify this wire type
|
It's possible that the red wire, actually a grid cap lead, is a very old replacement, I can't remember seeing a pre 1939...Arran — 09:18 PM |
Gilfillan Brothers Car Radio?
|
Hi everyone,
Special thanks to Joe Rossi for tracking down this obscure radio and thanks to others who took up the hun...Antipodal — 08:15 PM |
trying to identify this wire type
|
Here's one source for your wire of many.
Take care and BE HEALTHY! Gary
P.S. Can't get the right color you need? I ...GarySP — 06:40 PM |
trying to identify this wire type
|
...and modern wire of the appropriate gauges and insulation V-rating (300V minimum, usually shown right on the wire) is ...morzh — 05:47 PM |
1930s Stromberg-Carlson Tombstone Radio need help identifying model number
|
I have a question about this radio, is there anyone that has access to this radio that has an intact unmolested speaker ...captainclock1988 — 04:28 PM |
1930s Stromberg-Carlson Tombstone Radio need help identifying model number
|
Well what makes me confuse all of those companies is that all three of those companies (Setchell-Carlson, Stromberg-Carl...captainclock1988 — 04:21 PM |
trying to identify this wire type
|
The red wire is rubber covered wire.
The others are cotton braid over rubber often in colors or a tracer, also strand...Chas — 02:43 PM |
Who's Online
|
There are currently no members online. |
|
|