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I’m new to the Philco forum, joined because a friend dropped off an old B&W cabinet Philco he asked me to see if I could get it to work. My “normal” tube electronics love is vintage guitar amplifiers which is why the Philco showed up on my doorstep!
So I realize that before I do ANYTHING the old filter caps (can caps) need to be replaced as I seriously doubt the originals have a prayer of functioning properly. I need to remove the power supply section from the cabinet to do this efficiently, but the anode cable is to short to do so and leave it connected. My question - can I unsolder the end of the cable from the CRT? I have looked at the other end and it seems to be soldered solidly into the tube socket. What’s the best way of dealing with the anode cable issue?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, DanoHSS.
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Welcome to the Phorum!
Several folks on the phorum have some TV experience so hopefully you will get a response soon. If the thread continues I'll move it into the Philco TV section.
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Welcome to the Phorum Dano!
Is your anode cable attached to the crt with what looks like a suction cup? If so then it disconnects there, but you want to discharge it first. I'll let members who are more knowledgeable on TVs tell you the easiest way to disconnect it instead of the clumsy way I used to do it
A Google search might also show how to do it. Good luck!
John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
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Yes, it has a suction cup but the connection doesn’t seem to be able to easily come off - looks soldered on. I’m afraid to try and unsolder it until someone confirms its safe to do so
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+1 John
Do slip a grounded screwdriver under the rubber cup till it comes in contact with the metal clip that snaps into the hole in the crt. This will short out any residual hv that maybe stored in the hv cap and the crt. This could be 10kv or so. So don't skip this step. It's at a low current so it may not kill you but it will make your light blink and reset your harddrive!!! [Image:
https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/sm...wisted.gif] If the rubber cup is in good shape you may be able to slide it back a bit to see how to unclip the anode lead. Obtw the black stuff on the back of the crt is call aquadag and it provides a ground for the crt, don't rest your hand on it while fooling w/the anode lead.
The clip looks something this:
https://www.labguysworld.com/5AXP4_050.JPG
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 12-14-2019, 03:32 PM by
Radioroslyn.)
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City: Roslyn Pa
Before you get too invested in this project you may want to find a crt tester to see if it has any emission left. It's kinda a waste of time if you can't get a decent picture out of it. Does it have a brightener on it already?
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 12-14-2019, 08:37 PM by
Radioroslyn.)
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No idea on the brightener. On the Anode question - do all of these have clips that just come out of the tube under the suction cup? Do you need to squeeze the clip to get it out? Afraid to try to pull it until I have more info, any and all will be appreciated. As for the condition of the CRT, I’m gambling on it as I have no way to test it. Figured I’d change out the electrolytics, remove and clean all the tubes, blow the dust out of everywhere I can get to, clean the pots, and see what happens. Works petty well for old amps, hoping the BW TV behaves similarly.
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City: Roslyn Pa
Check ur PM box.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
Posts: 7,288
Threads: 268
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
I think this is your set:
http://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/philc...132-10.pdf
I would replace the two caps on the control grid of the 6CD6 while your working on it. If they are leaky at can cause excessive plate current to flow thru the flyback and damage it.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 12-16-2019, 11:26 PM by
Radioroslyn.)
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